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Unread 09-03-2012, 07:38 PM   #826
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I find that I tend to "overwork" and area with weld. And if I find a pin hole, I try to close it and make it worse! Can pin holes be left and just go over the area withh something like Evercoat metal-to-metal or Metal-glaze?
That depends on your standard, and yours is pretty high. A pin hole is a pin hole. If you don't get the rust out of it, it will continue to do so. I like to use Ospho on metal after I have completed modding it, and before painting.

That being said, AJ tells me that rust cannot continue if there is no oxygen getting to it. He told me I could encapsulate rusted areas with fiberglass fillers and virtually stop rust. It is logical, but I'm sure someone would argue that point. After repairing/welding the windshield frame, I applied liberal amounts of DuraGlas... no break through rust yet.

Whenever you get a less-then-perfect weld you are gaining porosity in the weld bead. This is like little pin holes everywhere! The rust is going to come back. You are only postponing it.

Use the fiberglas filler on the pinholes if it requires so much grinding that you wear the metal too thin.

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Unread 09-03-2012, 08:13 PM   #827
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Pin holes are kinda bad Paul. Here's why. Let's say you have one on the outside of the tub somewhere and you go ahead and fill then paint over it. If you happen to get a good layer of paint or whatever on the backside of it likely it'll never be a problem but if that hole ever lets water get starting under the filler it's going to rust there. Epoxy primer goes a long way to help slow this down and so does the Evercoat Everglass filler. My friend that runs his own body shop tells me they're all going to rust sooner or later. Don't stress over it but do use the epoxy primer and down the road when the paint bubbles just fix it.
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Unread 09-03-2012, 08:32 PM   #828
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Yeah, I figured it was bad to leave the pin hole. I have discovered I can fill small holes with ease. Ones that are pushing close to 1/2" in size I suck at. Obviously getting it too hot and burning away the edge, or as I tend to do, stay in one spot too long. One area I made worse than when I started so I cut my losses and cut out a square and welded in a patch. I am much better at that. I have decided to make patches for the 1/2 holes. I have some thicker copper backer metal on the way too. Once I get that I can finish the firewall. I cut out the blower hole to fit the blazer motor and test fit the heater box. Fits like a glove.
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Unread 09-03-2012, 10:29 PM   #829
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What I found works for filling holes is short burts with the wire. If you watch the pool of metal, as you let go of the trigger, you will see it begin to cool. When it turns a dull red is when you give it another burst of wire. You build small tacks, one after another, until you close the hole. But you have to watch the color of the heated metal. When it is white, it will blow through. Do a tack and stop, watch the metal until it is dull red, do another tack, and repeat. The trick is keeping the metal "cool". I don't move the gun away. I stay poised over the area. It is pretty quick, and you'll get the hang of it quickly. You will, however, end up with pin holes, because each tack is another layer of metal on top of a previous one. Once you fill the hole you can grind it down, but you have to be really careful with the grinder, or you will remove too much metal and make the area thin. That's very hard for me to gauge, and I ground down a part of the WS frame much too thin. I had to repair that too! After I am done grinding I wipe a coat of Ospho over the metal. I let that sit for 24 hours. The I prep it for filler, then the rest of the body work.
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Unread 09-05-2012, 11:55 AM   #830
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Here's my thoughts on pin holes... for what it's worth. Being that I'm stuck with the welding talent that I am (read that as none) and that it's thin steel that always has to be stitch welded, beit a bunch of tacks or short 1/2" stretches, which helps create pinholes and porosity; its never gonna be perfect. So I know there are holes and tiny passages that I may not even be able to see. My plan after the welding is all done is to spray it all with Metal Ready etcher, hose it off and dry it well. Then brush POR on all my welds. This should flow into all the nooks and crannies, sealing the metal. Then use seam sealer where feasible, which will cover most welds. Then POR over everything. I'll call that the COIZ method. Then I will fill any places where I couldn't use seam sealer, such as the outside of the body; with a waterproof filler like Evercoat's Kitty Hair. This should seal things pretty well prior to the paint coat. Any hollow spot that will be totally enclosed or bare metal being covered up I've been using Eastwood's internal frame paint or a Martin Senour zinc weld thru primer.
So I'm not worrying too much about small voids or neatness of my welds. Penetration is my main concern.

I'll try that burst / dull red color method Skerr. I've got several places in the bed that need filled in, from pin hole to quarter sized. But then I may just cover the whole underside of the bed with new metal between the support rails, then use fiberglass filler from above.
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Unread 09-05-2012, 12:56 PM   #831
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The view from the backside of my fender enlarged 400% and tweaked in Photoshop....

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Unread 09-05-2012, 09:33 PM   #832
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Was this taken with the Hubble??
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Unread 09-06-2012, 08:07 AM   #833
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I was thinking from his back yard.

Bill
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Unread 09-06-2012, 08:02 PM   #834
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The view from the backside of my fender enlarged 400% and tweaked in Photoshop....

You have a solar system inside your fender? Does NASA know?
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Unread 09-06-2012, 11:13 PM   #835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr

You have a solar system inside your fender? Does NASA know?
Better yet, does vex know?
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Unread 09-09-2012, 08:18 PM   #836
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Got a little time in the garage today. Finished up closing holes in the firewall. This section of tub is where the YJ tire carrier bump stop attached. As you can see it is dented and needs repair. Not a lot of room behind there to swing a hammer. Wonder if it would be better to cut that section out and try to bend a patch with the same contour? Although maybe that is more difficult?
20120909_210141.jpg   20120909_210158.jpg   20120909_210320.jpg   20120909_210328.jpg  
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Unread 09-09-2012, 08:25 PM   #837
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I have seen both Dave and Jim do a fancy little deal where they weld a washer on its side and then pull the dent out. I'm sure one of them will post up some pics. No, don't cut out that piece of metal.
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Unread 09-09-2012, 08:28 PM   #838
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Paul I have taken washers and tack welded them in the low spots on dents and used vise grips to pull the dent out. Here's an example of low spot in the tailgate.
100_0714.jpg  
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Unread 09-10-2012, 08:46 AM   #839
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This isn't bad for $100.00, if you have a several dents to pull, and have a mig welder...

Check out the video...

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-stud-welding-kit.html

I have one like this...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Heavy-duty-dent-puller-for-all-body-panels-includes-hook-and-seal-hook/_/N-25yt?itemIdentifier=420828&_requestid=435304

It's not bad..

Paul's dents are located in an area that would be difficult to block and pry out.

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Unread 09-12-2012, 12:35 AM   #840
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Paul's dents are located in an area that would be difficult to block and pry out.

Rich
Yeah, maybe, but we're talking about Paul!!
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