Nice job on the start up, looks like a sweet set up, I wish my engine was running. I was wondering if you could tell me how you got your intake looking so good, it looks brand new. Thanks
Thanks man! I degreased it, wire wheel and painted it with VHT Flame Proof Aluminum paint.
Pushed the rolling chassis aside today and rearranged the jigsaw puzzle that is my garage. Decided to start small with welding since I have not welded on sheet before. Cut two small patches for the YJ windshield squirter's. Tacked in and welded up. Two things I learned. Don't go too fast. First one was great, second one I started getting more cocky and blew a hole. But I fixed that. Second thing is it must be a fine art to grinding welds. Cause I suck. Anyone have any secret method? Tried flap disc on grinder, then when I got down close switch to sanding disc on die grinder. there will be some body filler here.
Cool.... thanks Dave. I filled two more holes and kinda getting the hang of the weld grinding now.
Another question: I flattened out a piece of copper pipe as a backer while filling the holes. It welded right to the tub. WTH??? Should I turn down the welder when filling holes? I had it set for 18 ga, which on my Hobart is 2/50. Should I set it for thinner gauge metal when filling? Did the copper pipe weld to the tub because the heat was too high? I thought dissimilar metals would not weld?
I am using .030 wire only because I was too lazy to change it to .025 this morning. Should I go to the smaller wire?
Using the smaller gauge wire will allow you to turn the heat down some, and also have a smaller bead area. In turn smoother welds, slower speeds and less grinding. Although from what I see, you are doing a good job. I have also found that welding it using small circles then stopping for a few seconds helps to eliminate "blow outs" Series of small short tacks, then weld it up. After practicing you will learn where the low spots are in the beads, that show up when you grind smooth. You will get to where after you weld up an area, grind it smooth, you will never know it was there.
As to the copper "heat sink"...Ive never done that, so I do not know what to tell you.
I use a 36 grit 4.5" flap disc, followed by an 80 grit flap disc on my grinder. Smooth as silk....nearly.
I think you are doing an excellent job from the welds you pictured, these are my 2 cents
Paul, I bet you used a 3/4"-1" piece of copper water pipe you had in the garage, right???
I did the same and melted it to the steel too, thicker is better and aluminum worked good and maybe better than copper; I used a a piece of 6061 that was leftover from the tbi adapter.
I had the best luck filling holes by fitting the backup metal tight to the steel, then firing the wire at the edge of the exposed steel at about a 45 degree angle, just a quick trigger squeeze and let it cool a few seconds.
1978 Cherokee, 360/T400/QT...5.3/4L60E/NP241C in the works...
I, in fact, did use a 3/4" copper pipe that I flattened! Hmmmmm, any kind of aluminum? I may have a hunk in the garage but don;t know what type it is. So should I leave the welder settings as if I was welding 18ga steel?
Pretty much any grade of aluminum will work fine. Thinner weld wire will make the whole process go a little smoother. It requires less heat to melt the thinner wire, resulting in less heat to the metal, overall.
When grinding down the welds, grind the welds down evenly, until the entire weld is smooth. Don't start a the beginning of a bead and just move back and forth until the first inch is flush, then onto the next inch, back and forth until it is flush, etc. This will put too much heat in that spot.
Go back and forth evenly, over the entire weld. Take the whole weld down at the same rate. Every so often, hit the area with a damp rag to cool it. If you have any areas that were below flush after welding, either add weld to them (preferably before the start of grinding), or live with the little low spot and fill it with body filler. DON'T chase a low spot with the grinder!
Eastwood sells some tools for weld-backing. Here's one...
Just out of curiosity....what's the backside look like? If it's all rough and gnarly, I'd add some Bondo-glass, or some other type of filler, before painting. If not, paint might not penetrate the little crevasses, and holes. Rust will start very quickly, there.
What are the setting ranges for your welder, Paul? Where does 50 fall in the overall range? Is 50 halfway? or is it 1/4, or full blast!? Need to know.
Also, you should have a chart inside the door of your welder recommending what settings to use with what gas and what thickness of steel. You need to reference that chart. It is good info and will not mislead you.
Go to the .025 wire. Get off your buttocks! HEAT means WARPAGE! Less heat means LESS warpage! You should be testing your welder settings on a piece of scrap before you apply it to the tub.
Now hop to it...
__________________ Kerrdog Go Fish! <*////><
But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
Paul I was just welding and thought of something else that helpful. When you strike an arc then quit welding the wire is discolored, actually I think it's even oxidized to some extent. Now when you go to strike another arc for another weld it takes more heat to get the arc going throught that wire in that condition. What we all need to be doing, although not at all convienent, is to snip the wire back far enough to have new fresh wire with every new weld. It takes less heat, the arc starts faster and you're not introducing porosity or oxidation to the weld. Try it and you'll notice how much easier the weld starts.
Here's my backer for welding thin stuff, various shapes and sizes too. Won't work on the windshield frame since there's not way to get inside but anywhere you have access it works great. Do smooth the backside up too if at all possible, smooth doesn't attrack dirt/moisture/rust like rough material will.
I've been using .025 wire and various backers, all copper. Some dbl. thick (3/4" coupler smashed flat), some single (a 3/4" & 1/2" coupler cut lengthwise, shaped to ribs of the bed) and I haven't gotten more than an occasional "sticking" of a weld bead but it's easily knocked off. I'm typically using a low heat setting so I can stay there a tad longer without making a hole down to the copper. Once I start getting some new weld metal established I then add to it to build out the fill. The new metal takes the heat better than the old metal.
Disclaimer: I make NO claim of being a good welder whatsoever. This is just what's been working for me.
Funny you should mention turning down the heat because that's what I did here. This was the large oval hole in the YJ firewall. I started out kinda fugly but got better as I went along. Being a novice, one heat setting lower kept me from blowing through since I think I dwell too long. But I got good penetration to the other side.
I find that I tend to "overwork" and area with weld. And if I find a pin hole, I try to close it and make it worse! Can pin holes be left and just go over the area withh something like Evercoat metal-to-metal or Metal-glaze?