Paul's 1984 CJ-7 Build Thread - Page 55 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Paul's 1984 CJ-7 Build Thread

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineThe Solution to Radius Arm Bind - Meet Lock-N-LoadFS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options!

Reply
Unread 09-02-2012, 10:57 AM   #811
VACJ7
Hockey Rules!
 
VACJ7's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,782
Quote:
Originally Posted by kurty65 View Post
Paul,
Nice job on the start up, looks like a sweet set up, I wish my engine was running. I was wondering if you could tell me how you got your intake looking so good, it looks brand new. Thanks
Thanks man! I degreased it, wire wheel and painted it with VHT Flame Proof Aluminum paint.

Pushed the rolling chassis aside today and rearranged the jigsaw puzzle that is my garage. Decided to start small with welding since I have not welded on sheet before. Cut two small patches for the YJ windshield squirter's. Tacked in and welded up. Two things I learned. Don't go too fast. First one was great, second one I started getting more cocky and blew a hole. But I fixed that. Second thing is it must be a fine art to grinding welds. Cause I suck. Anyone have any secret method? Tried flap disc on grinder, then when I got down close switch to sanding disc on die grinder. there will be some body filler here.

20120902_124756.jpg   20120902_124805.jpg  
__________________
'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
VACJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2012, 11:25 AM   #812
243
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,258
I grind the welds just like you have, 36g flap disc and followed by a finer flap disc.
__________________
You can't sit at the big boy table if you are gonna whine like a girl...M
243 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2012, 12:55 PM   #813
VACJ7
Hockey Rules!
 
VACJ7's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,782
Cool.... thanks Dave. I filled two more holes and kinda getting the hang of the weld grinding now.

Another question: I flattened out a piece of copper pipe as a backer while filling the holes. It welded right to the tub. WTH??? Should I turn down the welder when filling holes? I had it set for 18 ga, which on my Hobart is 2/50. Should I set it for thinner gauge metal when filling? Did the copper pipe weld to the tub because the heat was too high? I thought dissimilar metals would not weld?

I am using .030 wire only because I was too lazy to change it to .025 this morning. Should I go to the smaller wire?
__________________
'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
VACJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2012, 02:53 PM   #814
kurty65
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Hingham, MA
Posts: 28
Awesome Paul, thanks for the info.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
kurty65 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2012, 04:52 PM   #815
gpower77
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Akron, Colorado
Posts: 426
Paul,

Using the smaller gauge wire will allow you to turn the heat down some, and also have a smaller bead area. In turn smoother welds, slower speeds and less grinding. Although from what I see, you are doing a good job. I have also found that welding it using small circles then stopping for a few seconds helps to eliminate "blow outs" Series of small short tacks, then weld it up. After practicing you will learn where the low spots are in the beads, that show up when you grind smooth. You will get to where after you weld up an area, grind it smooth, you will never know it was there.

As to the copper "heat sink"...Ive never done that, so I do not know what to tell you.

I use a 36 grit 4.5" flap disc, followed by an 80 grit flap disc on my grinder. Smooth as silk....nearly.

I think you are doing an excellent job from the welds you pictured, these are my 2 cents

Garry
gpower77 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2012, 08:40 PM   #816
243
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,258
Paul, I bet you used a 3/4"-1" piece of copper water pipe you had in the garage, right???

I did the same and melted it to the steel too, thicker is better and aluminum worked good and maybe better than copper; I used a a piece of 6061 that was leftover from the tbi adapter.

I had the best luck filling holes by fitting the backup metal tight to the steel, then firing the wire at the edge of the exposed steel at about a 45 degree angle, just a quick trigger squeeze and let it cool a few seconds.
__________________
You can't sit at the big boy table if you are gonna whine like a girl...M
243 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2012, 08:45 PM   #817
VACJ7
Hockey Rules!
 
VACJ7's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,782
I, in fact, did use a 3/4" copper pipe that I flattened! Hmmmmm, any kind of aluminum? I may have a hunk in the garage but don;t know what type it is. So should I leave the welder settings as if I was welding 18ga steel?
__________________
'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
VACJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-02-2012, 09:40 PM   #818
243
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,258
Try your setting as is with a thicker backup first, I don't know that it matters what type of aluminum. If you have access to buss bars or other 1/4" plus copper that would be my first choice.
__________________
You can't sit at the big boy table if you are gonna whine like a girl...M
243 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2012, 07:23 AM   #819
rixcj
Web Wheeler
 
rixcj's Avatar
1979 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: RI
Posts: 1,694
Pretty much any grade of aluminum will work fine. Thinner weld wire will make the whole process go a little smoother. It requires less heat to melt the thinner wire, resulting in less heat to the metal, overall.

When grinding down the welds, grind the welds down evenly, until the entire weld is smooth. Don't start a the beginning of a bead and just move back and forth until the first inch is flush, then onto the next inch, back and forth until it is flush, etc. This will put too much heat in that spot.

Go back and forth evenly, over the entire weld. Take the whole weld down at the same rate. Every so often, hit the area with a damp rag to cool it. If you have any areas that were below flush after welding, either add weld to them (preferably before the start of grinding), or live with the little low spot and fill it with body filler. DON'T chase a low spot with the grinder!

Eastwood sells some tools for weld-backing. Here's one...

http://www.eastwood.com/4-inch-magne...ng-backer.html

Just out of curiosity....what's the backside look like? If it's all rough and gnarly, I'd add some Bondo-glass, or some other type of filler, before painting. If not, paint might not penetrate the little crevasses, and holes. Rust will start very quickly, there.

Rich
__________________
'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
rixcj is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2012, 07:54 AM   #820
Skerr
<*////><
 
Skerr's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: White Springs, Florida
Posts: 8,912
What are the setting ranges for your welder, Paul? Where does 50 fall in the overall range? Is 50 halfway? or is it 1/4, or full blast!? Need to know.

Also, you should have a chart inside the door of your welder recommending what settings to use with what gas and what thickness of steel. You need to reference that chart. It is good info and will not mislead you.

Go to the .025 wire. Get off your buttocks! HEAT means WARPAGE! Less heat means LESS warpage! You should be testing your welder settings on a piece of scrap before you apply it to the tub.

Now hop to it...
__________________
Kerrdog
Go Fish! <*////><

But the right word at the right time... "Hey, give me a little hug!" That's the difference between lightning and a harmless lightning bug!
Skerr is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2012, 08:36 AM   #821
Jim1611
Web Wheeler
 
Jim1611's Avatar
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,654
Paul I was just welding and thought of something else that helpful. When you strike an arc then quit welding the wire is discolored, actually I think it's even oxidized to some extent. Now when you go to strike another arc for another weld it takes more heat to get the arc going throught that wire in that condition. What we all need to be doing, although not at all convienent, is to snip the wire back far enough to have new fresh wire with every new weld. It takes less heat, the arc starts faster and you're not introducing porosity or oxidation to the weld. Try it and you'll notice how much easier the weld starts.

Here's my backer for welding thin stuff, various shapes and sizes too. Won't work on the windshield frame since there's not way to get inside but anywhere you have access it works great. Do smooth the backside up too if at all possible, smooth doesn't attrack dirt/moisture/rust like rough material will.





__________________
www.crabtreetool.com (Crabtree Shackle Hangers)

My build thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ji...build-1093702/
Jim1611 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2012, 10:58 AM   #822
VACJ7
Hockey Rules!
 
VACJ7's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,782
.025 superarc wire works MUCH better! That and a 1.5" hunk of aluminum I had in the garage. I need a smaller chunk though. Being that thick amkes it a challenge to clamp.
__________________
'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
VACJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2012, 12:12 PM   #823
Renegade82
Web Wheeler
 
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,699
I've been using .025 wire and various backers, all copper. Some dbl. thick (3/4" coupler smashed flat), some single (a 3/4" & 1/2" coupler cut lengthwise, shaped to ribs of the bed) and I haven't gotten more than an occasional "sticking" of a weld bead but it's easily knocked off. I'm typically using a low heat setting so I can stay there a tad longer without making a hole down to the copper. Once I start getting some new weld metal established I then add to it to build out the fill. The new metal takes the heat better than the old metal.

Disclaimer: I make NO claim of being a good welder whatsoever. This is just what's been working for me.
__________________
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
Renegade82 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2012, 12:16 PM   #824
VACJ7
Hockey Rules!
 
VACJ7's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,782
Funny you should mention turning down the heat because that's what I did here. This was the large oval hole in the YJ firewall. I started out kinda fugly but got better as I went along. Being a novice, one heat setting lower kept me from blowing through since I think I dwell too long. But I got good penetration to the other side.
20120903_141150.jpg   20120903_144137.jpg  
__________________
'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
VACJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 09-03-2012, 03:08 PM   #825
VACJ7
Hockey Rules!
 
VACJ7's Avatar
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 3,782
I find that I tend to "overwork" and area with weld. And if I find a pin hole, I try to close it and make it worse! Can pin holes be left and just go over the area withh something like Evercoat metal-to-metal or Metal-glaze?
__________________
'84 CJ-7 | REBUILD IN PROGRESS
VACJ7 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.