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Unread 08-25-2012, 03:20 PM   #766
VACJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
One thing that he told me was NOT to fire the engine up, until I was at the point of being able to use the jeep on a "regular basis". In other words, to at least run it occasionally, after the first time starting it.

Apparently, if you run it, and then DON'T run it for a very long time, there is a REMOTE, and I stress, REMOTE chance that the engine could cease up. He said that it probably won't happen, but why chance it.
Rich, I hope this is not true in my case! I could probably rig it to periodically start it. My plan was to use engine fogging oil in the cylinders when I push it aside. Before I start it again for driving I would pull the dizzy and prime it again. Maybe another abbreviated break-in.

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Originally Posted by gpower77 View Post


Way to go Paul! No leaks....somethings wrong....you sure you got oil and water in it!!???

Garry
Thanks Garry.... I was fully expecting the RMS to leak or at least the valve cover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Really cool Paul, I glad everything went well. The 2 minor glitches were just that, it appeared the engine didn't shake or vibrate at all. I'll bet running the engine up to 2000 rpm , and leaving it there for a while was nerve racking.

You should have taken your BP before start up and after you turned the key off for the final time.

Well done my friend, Bill
Thanks Bill! It ran very smooth. No shake at all. It was a little stressful especially trying to keep it cool. As my buddy pointed out, at 2000+ RPM I would be doing 50+ MPH and have the benefit of that air flow. But.... it never overheated even though it was a struggle to keep it around 200.

I stayed remarkably calm given the circumstances. I think my BP stayed in check.

P

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Unread 08-25-2012, 03:43 PM   #767
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On a side note, the studs I used for the intake/header work really well. Checked the torque after the run and they did not loosen at all. But I will still check them again after a couple of heat cycles. No smoke out the exhaust pipe and the stock muffler was nice and quiet even with the header. That's what I wanted. My old muffler had a terrible drone.
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Unread 08-25-2012, 04:24 PM   #768
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Nice work Paul. In light of what Rich mentioned you could always put some kind of hose on the tailpipe and run it outside and start it once a week or so. Would be great motivation to get busy. Shoot I'm motivated just by listening!!
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Unread 08-25-2012, 05:02 PM   #769
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I really think what Rich said is unlikely, but my only Experiance is with well broke in engines that have been sitting outside in the Jeep, some as long as 4 years.

This is similar to checking your home smoke dectors once a year, only on a more frequent basis. Every 2 weeks on Sunday morning , coffee in hand rotate the engine 1/2 a turn of the crankshaft.

A quick shot of fogging oil, once a month or so could also be done.

A quick pre lube when your ready to drive and your good to go.

I hope to start the engine in my 1957 Williys pickup later this year. It a pre 1959 283 with unkown miles. It hasn't ran for at least 6 years,
1. Remove the valve covers and rotate the engine by hand enough to ensure the valves are not stuck.

2. With the valve covers still off, pull the distributor and prelube the engine after changing the oil and filter. Rotate the engine again and pre lube again.

3. Check the wiring to the distributor have a look at the points. Put a new coil on, replace the valve covers , hook up a gas can and line. Fire it up.

Bill
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Unread 08-25-2012, 06:07 PM   #770
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Sounds great!
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Unread 08-25-2012, 06:11 PM   #771
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Ok, what is the difference between the engine running 30 minutes, and storing it. And not running it,

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 08-25-2012, 06:16 PM   #772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
I was surprised when it fired right away.
Nice one Paul. You would have been the the only one who was suprised, I'd say. When people go at things with as much enthusiasm, precision, attention to detail etc as you guys all do there can surely be only one outcome right?

Perhaps what may have suprised you is that you left the radiator cap loose...ppphhhttt!

Good work mate.

PS Hey it's always good to see moving pictures too. Like that.
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Unread 08-25-2012, 06:21 PM   #773
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I agree with your first post, Bill. I'd much rather break my engine in and then store it, doing what you said above, until it was ready to go rather than having it sit forever with the cam lube dripping into the pan and turning into Lord know what over time.

I don't know why I never saw your build, Paul, but you do some extremely impressive work! I'm glad the break-in went off without a hitch.


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Unread 08-25-2012, 09:46 PM   #774
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I am a bonehead sometimes. When I hooked up the fan controller I pulled out everything I had put in the ziplock bag and wired it up. What I should have done was look at the instructions again because I failed to put an important wire in that bag. That is a positive wire from the ignition to the controller!!! And 100% why the fans did not work. Oh well, will fix that tomorrow and dial in the TBI settings and timing.
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Unread 08-25-2012, 11:02 PM   #775
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good for you Paul! and thanks for sharing the video...
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Unread 08-26-2012, 06:19 AM   #776
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Bravo!

Glad the engine start up went well as I know how nerve racking that can be. Its not so bad running the engine, it's the possibility of springing a leak somewhere and spraying oil or coolant everywhere that got me worried when I did the start up on mine. I only had a leak at the power steering pump cap due to a check valve being installed backwards by me. It ruined the reservoir tank as more pressure buildup inside and caused the tank to bulge. Had to shut the engine down and take the power steering belt off to continue with the break-in.

I think now that you have the engine break-in out of the way, you will get more motivated to finish your build sooner then you think.

Congrats.
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Unread 08-26-2012, 07:12 AM   #777
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You don't look old enough to be playing with Jeeps!



Congrats Dude. My engine burned off a ton of something too. Worried me sick. I think it was just curing paint.
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Unread 08-26-2012, 08:11 AM   #778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Rich, I hope this is not true in my case! I could probably rig it to periodically start it. My plan was to use engine fogging oil in the cylinders when I push it aside. Before I start it again for driving I would pull the dizzy and prime it again. Maybe another abbreviated break in.
As I said, the chance of a future problem is slim-to-none. Because that possible scenario was stressed to me, I felt obligated to post it up...

Doing the fogging would pretty much insure that you'd never have a problem.

Your engine sounds great....real strong. Someday, in the next few years, I'll have the same adrenaline rush that you've just experienced!

Rich
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Unread 08-26-2012, 11:28 AM   #779
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Well, my joy of yesterday has turned south today. Changed oil and filter. Fired it up and set timing. Discovered it was way retarded during break-in, like 4* BTDC. And the problem today is it is burning oil. After it warms up if I just goose the throttle a little it billows smoke out the tailpipe. I really do not want to tear this all the way down again. Ideas? With the timing where it was explains why I was having a hard time keeping it cool. But what damage could I have done???? I'm very sad...

At idle oil pressure of 25 psi
At 2000 rpm it is 60 psi
Manifold vac at idle bounces between 19 and 20
At 2000 rpm is holds steady at 21

Video is washed out. Smoke cloud is much thicker than this shows. I pulled the valve cover off and everything looks ok up top, as far as I can see. I re-torqued the rockers and they all toqued up a little. So the oil has to either be coming past the rings or down the valve stems, correct? I guess next step is look at the plugs? Then maybe compression test and then leak down test?

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Unread 08-26-2012, 12:44 PM   #780
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Definitely look at the plugs. I would do that first. Doesn't make sense that you're burning oil, Paul. I know you're on top of this, but are you absolutely certain you're not buring gas?
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