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Unread 11-13-2011, 08:08 AM   #181
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
I needed a new oil pan for this engine so I ended up buying a new one from the local Autozone. It is a Spectre Premium brand and the quality is not bad. It was half the cost of an OMIX pan and is made in Canada which I am hoping is better than China!
That's good to know since I have a spare 258 engine here at the house that I bought for $50.00 and it needs a new oil pan. I read the Omix-Ada have fitment issues so I will use the Spectre Premium brand instead. Thanks.

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Restoration Thread:http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=434226
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Unread 11-13-2011, 08:28 AM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Oh.... anyone considering the HF vehicle dollies pictured above don't waste your money. All but worthless. Easy to push the Jeep in whatever direction the wheels are facing, but getting it to change directions is impossible.
I have the same HF wheel dollies and didn't really have that problem pushing the CJ around in the shop. I admit, it is easier to steer when two guys push.

Nice detail work on the timing cover, I painted only the 0 and 8 numbers on mine and the line on the Harmonic Damper too. Your oil pan came out great looking and I hope you painted the edge around the perimeter where it makes contact with the engine block. I failed to do mine while powder coating and had to use Linseed oil to cover the exposed bare steel so it would not rust.
I am jealous, AMC blue is a way better looking color for the engine then old Ford blue.

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Unread 11-13-2011, 09:00 AM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7
Oh.... anyone considering the HF vehicle dollies pictured above don't waste your money. All but worthless. Easy to push the Jeep in whatever direction the wheels are facing, but getting it to change directions is impossible.
I think this would be a problem with any dollies. And any small piece of dirt on the floor, stops the wheels.

I also have the HF ones.

Bill
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1973 J 4000,
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1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
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Unread 11-13-2011, 10:37 AM   #184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Thanks MoC! Here is the patient as it sits today. Hopefully I can tear it down as quickly as Fred but I doubt it. If I get motivated tomorrow (or not picking up leaves) I will start assembly of the engine.

When removing the fender flares I discovered that the PO decided that since he did not have the proper mounting hardware he would just drill some holes and attach them using drywall screws. Not even sheet metal screws, but drywall screws. Nice.
Paul,

You're doing an awesome job, I love the engine! If you need me to send you Mikey for a couple weeks to help with tear-down, let me know!
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Unread 11-13-2011, 01:16 PM   #185
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Got motivated today. I am using the Basic Engine Building DVD by Boxwrench as my guide along with the FSM. I am doing all the pre-assembly steps which has you put everything together, check rotating assembly and plastigauge bearings. Then take it all back apart for final assembly. Stopping for lunch now. Main bearing measured spot on at .002. Crank, cam and timing chain are in and pistons without rings are going in next to check rod bearing clearances. Tming chain checks out per the FSM. Having fun today!
imag0014.jpg   imag0012.jpg  
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Unread 11-13-2011, 04:06 PM   #186
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Good that you are using plasti-gauge for checking oil clearances. Its a good tool to use and has saved me mistakes. Just because a bearing is marked STD and in the correct box, doesnt always mean its correct. Have caught that problem before, and had I just thrown it together, I would have locked up or spun a bearing....not good. I also use lubri-plate when doing final assembly on rotating parts and bearings. Its an oil soluble assembly lube that keeps the parts from being run dry on initial statups.

Not sure if your FSM says this, but I know on our Deere diesel engines, they recommend new head bolts, as well as new rod bolts, and to use the old ones when doing the torque and oil clearance check. Then for final assembly use the new rod and head bolts. Building engines has always been fun, and with you taking your time to check, and recheck will save you a lot of headaches.

Looking good

Garry
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Unread 11-13-2011, 05:19 PM   #187
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Think I am gonna stop for the evening. Have a rotating assembly! Woohoo! Rod bearings checked and within spec. Next up is valve to piston clearance using the #1 cylinder. Then I will take it all apart and do the final assembly.


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Unread 11-13-2011, 05:27 PM   #188
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Sweet!
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Unread 11-13-2011, 05:28 PM   #189
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Nice videos Paul, Good background music too. Looking good.

Bill
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 11-13-2011, 07:22 PM   #190
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Thanks for all the nice comments everyone. Had a great time working on the engine today!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
Beautiful job on the oil pan and timing cover! When you stated that you used your oven for the clearcoat, was that to bake on paint, or powdercoat?
Rich, I used a high-temp rattle can clear by VHT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
.... I hope you painted the edge around the perimeter where it makes contact with the engine block. I failed to do mine while powder coating and had to use Linseed oil to cover the exposed bare steel so it would not rust.
Now you tell me that Keith! The pan came powder coated so that area is covered, although it will be black. I did not strip the pan, just scuffed it up with some sandpaper before painting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
Nice videos Paul, Good background music too. Looking good.
I had to go back and crank up the volume to see what was playing on the radio. Bad Company is one of my all time favorite bands.
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Unread 11-16-2011, 10:40 PM   #191
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I've read a few threads on replacing the timing cover seal but did not find the answer. The FSM did not give me the answer either because they use a special tool to install the seal. So.... when driving in the seal with a bearing/race driver.... do you tap it in until it is flush with the front of the housing (red circle) or do you drive it until it touches the rear recessed area in the cover? I tried driving it until it touched the rear area and destroyed it (had the back supported with a block of wood). Now gotta get another one. Anyone????
dscf0077.jpg  
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Unread 11-18-2011, 08:40 PM   #192
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Did not get to do much during the week. Final engine assembly is happening tomorrow. I did break out my powder coating gun and tried it on something small. Turned out pretty good and was easy to do. Look forward to coating more stuff now! I ended up stripping the timing cover AGAIN. The clear coat and baking turned it green compared to the rest of the block. Could have ignored it but it was bugging the heck out of me. This time I think I will just powder coat it cast aluminum color from Eastwood.

The color on the hood light is Silver Base. Looks more chrome to me. It is fine for the light but not sure I will use it on much more.
imag0018.jpg   imag0019.jpg  
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Unread 11-18-2011, 08:46 PM   #193
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Looks GREAT Paul! Going to send you mine to do!
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Unread 11-18-2011, 10:29 PM   #194
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Dad gone, Paul, that looks good!!!! I like it.
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Unread 11-18-2011, 11:39 PM   #195
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Paul, I'm pretty sure that the Silver Base is used mostly for 2-coat applications, such as the anodized colors, translucent colors, and candy colors. You apply and bake the Silver Base first, then apply and bake the second color over it.

I've done some of those anodized and translucent colors and they are wild!

Rich
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