Paul's 1984 CJ-7 Build Thread - Page 67 - JeepForum.com

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post #991 of 1074 Old 09-21-2013, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Steps are done. Tried bending back in vise and quickly realized it was not gonna work. Made a relief cut, bent it back into place comparing measurements with the other step. Filled the cut with weld and probably could have left it at that. Cut a piece of 3/4 black pipe in half lengthwise and welded into place for extra support.

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post #992 of 1074 Old 09-21-2013, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Does anyone have a set of OEM fenders off their Jeep that could give me a measurement or two? As you an see, the PO did some modifications to the hole where the fenders bolt to the grille. I would like to fix this. There is a seam... maybe a measurement off that seam to the center of the holes?
On my 85, they are 1/2 inch. However, there some overlap on that seam on the underside metal maybe a 1/16 or a little less. Can tell the workmanship wasn't all there.
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post #993 of 1074 Old 09-21-2013, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Scott!

OK, I have stopped procrastinating. This was NOT fun at all but it is cut out. Have to do the same thing on the other side and the driver pan. I should have stuck with my procrastination streak. I dunno how some of you guys do this with the tub on the frame!!!!
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post #994 of 1074 Old 09-21-2013, 02:57 PM
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Did not get a lot of Jeep time this weekend. Test fitted some pieces. Need to drill holes for fender flares and rocker trim. I am commited to cutting out floor patches this week.... maybe...

Body parts are from 7 different Jeeps. Only thing original is the hood and windshield.

Paul, I hope you can appreciate the humor in this...

I was cruising east on I10 just west of downtown Houston and a mid-80's C10 was coming up on my left, I looked because I had a pretty nice C10 and you know how it is.

As he got closer I could see the fenders, hood and cab were all a different color, as he got beside me I could see the passenger side door and bed were different colors too, I was laughing and when he passed I could see the rear of the drives side of the bed was a different color as was the tailgate....and painted on the tailgate

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post #995 of 1074 Old 09-21-2013, 04:28 PM
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Paul... was gonna say the 5 measurements won't work, as we had to drill our own holes. The fenders would be the same as a 7, and it looks like Scott (the OTHER Scott) got them for you?? Do you need anything else?

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post #996 of 1074 Old 09-21-2013, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, my junk resembles that now! I really don't want to cut out any more floor pans.

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post #997 of 1074 Old 09-21-2013, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Paul... was gonna say the 5 measurements won't work, as we had to drill our own holes. The fenders would be the same as a 7, and it looks like Scott (the OTHER Scott) got them for you?? Do you need anything else?
Yeah, as a matter of fact I do.... come get my junk and return it to me in mint condition.

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post #998 of 1074 Old 09-21-2013, 07:15 PM
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Yeah, as a matter of fact I do.... come get my junk and return it to me in mint condition.
Okay... but you gotta meet me halfway!

Kerrdog
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post #999 of 1074 Old 09-22-2013, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Don't buy C2Fabrication floor pan repair panels. The 2 bends that create the recessed floor section are all wrong. OEM drops like 3/8" and these bends are 1/8 at best.

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post #1000 of 1074 Old 09-22-2013, 05:25 PM
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The ones from Classic Enterprises were pretty spot on. I had to match my original ones. I know that doesn't help you but it's reference for other readers.

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post #1001 of 1074 Old 09-22-2013, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, hopefully someone benefits from this. The bends are not even rolled like the OEM panels. In hindsight I probably could have made it work if I had not cut past the bend. Oh well, live and learn. Not really enjoying this part of the repair but is necessary. I will get through it eventually.

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post #1002 of 1074 Old 09-22-2013, 08:09 PM
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Paul. Just read up all of your thread in the past 2 days. What mad skills and patience you have! I learned allot from your thread and saved many pictures of things I haven't gotten to yet that will really help.

I just got my tub off today and will soon be practicing the fine art of procrastination as it is much "worserer" than I thought.

Thanks and keep pressing on.

If you always do what you've always done. You will always get what you've always got.
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post #1003 of 1074 Old 09-28-2013, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82
The ones from Classic Enterprises were pretty spot on. I had to match my original ones. I know that doesn't help you but it's reference for other readers.
Noted, thanks.

Gary (gazzo)

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/gazzos-cj10-truck-2185617/
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post #1004 of 1074 Old 09-28-2013, 08:31 AM
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I think that the ribs under the roll bar pads contribute to the rotting, since they allow moisture and dirt underneath the pads.

I suppose they could be seam-sealed, but I chose to use a flat piece of sheet metal under mine.

Matt
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post #1005 of 1074 Old 09-28-2013, 08:48 AM
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Paul,

Another reason for the rotting under the roll bar pads is due to the fact that the end of the U-channel brace is open and exposed to road grime from the tires.

My solution was to tack weld a simple cap over the end of the U-channel.

Hope this helps,

Matt
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