Paul's 1984 CJ-7 Build Thread - Page 6 - JeepForum.com

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post #76 of 1104 Old 09-25-2011, 10:15 AM
Sherms-CJ7
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Hey Paul!

Man, your Jeep "looked great" ... can't believe you need to tear it down, but I know how it is when things are worse than they look. Well, your project will move along much quicker than mine ...

Looking great so far!

Best regards,
John


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post #77 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
VACJ7
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Thanks John!

It has been raining non-stop all week so was not able to pick up frame on Monday. But today was beautiful and grabbed it after work!! I need to get this thing primed ASAP. Ordered SPI epoxy on Monday and it arrived Wednesday.
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post #78 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 06:25 PM
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Try this stuff with the prep they recommend for the outside: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/blacktop.html
(This is part of the prep and the magic underneath: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal.html)

And this stuff for the inside: http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html

And you'll be solid for life!

Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up:
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post #79 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 07:13 PM
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Dang your frame came out good! Makes me want to re-do mine... NOT! Be sure and post up your coating process.

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post #80 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah Scott, I remember your painful frame experience... but you won in the end!

CMH, thanks for the links! I have Eastwood internal frame coating waiting to be applied. Since I have clean bare metal now I don't have a compelling reason to deviate from the SPI Epoxy primer I purchased.

Game plan is I will apply the internal coating first, wipe off any coating that runs out of the frame holes with acetone. Wipe frame with wax/grease remover, then apply 2 coats of Epoxy primer, followed by Eastwoods Extreme Chassis Black in satin.

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post #81 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
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Yeah Scott, I remember your painful frame experience... but you won in the end!

CMH, thanks for the links! I have Eastwood internal frame coating waiting to be applied. Since I have clean bare metal now I don't have a compelling reason to deviate from the SPI Epoxy primer I purchased.

Game plan is I will apply the internal coating first, wipe off any coating that runs out of the frame holes with acetone. Wipe frame with wax/grease remover, then apply 2 coats of Epoxy primer, followed by Eastwoods Extreme Chassis Black in satin.
Very nice choices I am sure you will be very happy good luck with it and show us pics of the process!

Bought a 1980 CJ-7 that I am rebuilding ground up:
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post #82 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 09:17 PM
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Paul, the frame looks good. Be cautious of what you clean the frame with, acetone will eat the primer and probably prevent it from adhering if you clean the frame with it. W&G remover is probably best for prepping the frame.

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post #83 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 09:45 PM
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^^^^^Dave is right on this^^^^^ Most all parts stores have wax and grease remover. A little high but it works great. Be sure to get some laquer thinner to clean that epoxy out of your spray gun too. Mineral spirits won't do the job.

Frame looks nice.


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post #84 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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OK Dave and Jim, now you have me all stressed out. I am going to spray the inside of the frame first. There is sure to be some that runs out on the external surface of the frame. This is what I wanted to use acetone to clean off before it sets up. Then wipe the whole frame with W&G remover before I sprayed the epoxy. Yes/No? What would you use to wipe off the internal spray as it leaks out of the frame?

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post #85 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 10:12 PM
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Me and my daughter taped up the holes and I poured the paint in, but it still leaked a little in various places. If you spray the inside, tape will probably keep 99% of the coating inside the frame. The epoxy needs to be topcoated with paint within 7 days I believe, or you will need to scuff it before spraying topcoat.

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post #86 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Thanks John!

It has been raining non-stop all week so was not able to pick up frame on Monday. But today was beautiful and grabbed it after work!! I need to get this thing primed ASAP. Ordered SPI epoxy on Monday and it arrived Wednesday.
You should powder coat it. If you spray it I would not use grease and wax remover.

Glenn R. Lever
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post #87 of 1104 Old 09-30-2011, 10:41 PM
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Finally finished up the frame. Whew.... AND, my welding continues to improve. If I calculated everything correctly (and I think I did), the holes in the rear crossmember are now in the correct place for the YJ tub. Completed the patch up front and welded tab for brake line.

Found a place to sandblast and prime my frame. It is actually cheaper to have it powder coated with an epoxy powder than to spray traditional epoxy. I am torn. Later I will need to grind sections to drill new holes for skid and weld so not sure powder is the way to go. Thoughts?
I'm catching up here, I powder coat. What you can do to patch up powder that you grind off is get a cheap powder coat gun, dust the area you ground off and than heat that area with a heat lamp, monitor the temperature. Most powders cue around 400 degrees in 15 minutes (must be at 400 for 15 minutes).

Nemco 6004-4 - Single Heat Lamp - Adjustable Gooseneck - Powder Coat Finish - Mounting Clamp
http://www.zesco.com/Nemco-6004-4-Si...-pz518D103.htm

check fee-bay also

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post #88 of 1104 Old 10-01-2011, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Stupid weather is just not gonna cooperate. It's cold and rainy which is less than ideal to try to spray Epoxy in my garage. 10-day forecast is showing sunny and mid-70s next weekend. I will be out of town this week, think the frame will flash rust in my garage???? That will make me very mad.

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post #89 of 1104 Old 10-01-2011, 03:03 PM
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Stupid weather is just not gonna cooperate. It's cold and rainy which is less than ideal to try to spray Epoxy in my garage. 10-day forecast is showing sunny and mid-70s next weekend. I will be out of town this week, think the frame will flash rust in my garage???? That will make me very mad.
If you have a dehumidifier, put it in the garage, that will help

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post #90 of 1104 Old 10-01-2011, 03:39 PM
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Paul the epoxy primer I use has a 3 day recoat window, after that it's scuff it up time. Here's what works better than anything any of us can tell you. If you have the product you want to use, ie. epoxy primer, call the folks that make it and explain what you're doing. Tell them what other products you'll be using and they can tell you what's compatable. Also ask them for a spec sheet on the material, I have them fax them to me or email them. That sheet will tell you how long the epoxy primer needs to cure before recoating and how long you can wait between coats. It's a very useful asset. Also epoxy primer is 2 part, you know that, when you mix it it needs to sit for a time before you use it. What I used was 15 minutes. That's on the sheet too. Be honest with the tec and they can walk you through the process. Take notes too. Getting paint to stick and turn out great isn't as hard as we sometime think. It's a process and if you follow the one the manufacurer lays out it'll work every time. You'll surprise yourself just how well it turns out.


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