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post #856 of 1074 Old 09-19-2012, 11:50 AM
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As we all know....our jeeps are never really "finished".

Rich


'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #857 of 1074 Old 09-19-2012, 05:30 PM
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Paul is there any reason you're taking the outside of the tub to bare metal? I was going to do that and my friend that owns the body shop talked me out of it. He thinks it'd be a better base for my enamel paint, after priming of course. The scaler looks like it's doing a good job for you. Your undercoating appears thinner than mine did though.
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post #858 of 1074 Old 09-19-2012, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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I just assumed taking it to bare metal and epoxy prime would give it a good foundation. I am not gonna have room to paint in my garage so that will be going out as well. I plan to start talking to a few shops this week and see how they would prefer the tub. I plan to prime the bottom, firewall and inside. Then seam seal and gravitex on the bottom. I do not plan to prime the outside. I want the paint shop responsible for everything visible.

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post #859 of 1074 Old 09-19-2012, 08:13 PM
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I agree on the bare metal, especially since your having it painted. No excuses on the part of the paint shop, about the old paint causing new paint problems.

Bill

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post #860 of 1074 Old 09-22-2012, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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I sure could use Jim's rotisserie.... and his shop. Chain hoist and some manual labor and got tub rotated. I do not care for all the holes in the YJ cowl. I had cut out my entire section from the CJ and plan to weld it all the way across. I know, more work. Here is first mock up. Needs just a little trim here and there. Will bolt dash panel in to hold it in place and tack the corners.
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post #861 of 1074 Old 09-23-2012, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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All welded up...
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post #862 of 1074 Old 09-23-2012, 11:36 AM
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Nice job welding that up, Paul! That's a lot to have to weld on such a narrow piece....

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #863 of 1074 Old 09-23-2012, 12:45 PM
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Bet that took a while to weld!
Question for you and those in general. How fast do you guys go thru a tank of 75%/25% argon? I've got a mid sized tank, roughly 8" rnd. 32" tall, that I got the end of June. I believe it going empty on me. The gauge says 0 but theres still pressure in the tank, but the welds are not even getting hot, its like the remaining pressure is just air cooling it down. Is this how it gets at the end of a tank? I haven't done a ton of welding since then and I always turn the tank closed when I'm done, never forgot.

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post #864 of 1074 Old 09-23-2012, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Bet that took a while to weld!
Question for you and those in general. How fast do you guys go thru a tank of 75%/25% argon? I've got a mid sized tank, roughly 8" rnd. 32" tall, that I got the end of June. I believe it going empty on me. The gauge says 0 but theres still pressure in the tank, but the welds are not even getting hot, its like the remaining pressure is just air cooling it down. Is this how it gets at the end of a tank? I haven't done a ton of welding since then and I always turn the tank closed when I'm done, never forgot.
The gas in the tank doesn't cool down the weld. It blankets the arc's atmosphere from oxygen. It removes the oxygen, which will contaminate the molten puddle.

When the tank is "empty" of gas, your welds will start getting porosity.

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #865 of 1074 Old 09-23-2012, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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So everything lined up before I started welding, now the 2 holes on each door opening are off by 1/2 bolt or more. Rats. I think the easiest thing to do is knock the 4 nuts out and weld new nuts? Otherwise I need to cut each side and bend the top piece up.
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post #866 of 1074 Old 09-23-2012, 03:23 PM
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If everything fit when you mocked it up before welding, and now you have bolt holes that don't line up after welding, I would say you have some warpage. If there is a way for you to check straightness of everything before welding anything else I would do it.

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post #867 of 1074 Old 09-23-2012, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Possible, although I did not put them all in when I aligned the cowl patch. I only put a few in. But now I need to dig out the brake pedal support since two holes above the column opening align with the pedal support. That should tell me if the front edge has dipped down. If they are off, then I will cut the patch and bend it up. If they align as is, then not sure where it is off.

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post #868 of 1074 Old 09-23-2012, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I need to cut the sides and bend it up some. I don't think it warped during welding. I think the piece I cut from the CJ was already like this. Maybe it distorted some when I cut it out. Or imperfection in either the CJ or YJ tub... nah, that can't be it. I noticed when I tacked the 4 corners that it looked like it sloped a little front to back but the sides aligned flush with the tub so I figured it was fine.

Put the brake support in and those holes are off vertically the same as the sides. So, the plan is to cut a kerf on each side. Put a 2x4 under the leading edge and beat it up some. Then put dash back on and if it is good tack it and weld it up.

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post #869 of 1074 Old 09-23-2012, 05:34 PM
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Might be easiest to move the 4 nuts Paul. What you just did is next on my tub. Nice work by the way!
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post #870 of 1074 Old 09-23-2012, 05:38 PM
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Paul, the dash looks really nice, is it a Logan part?

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