Paul's 1984 CJ-7 Build Thread - Page 5 - JeepForum.com

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post #61 of 1104 Old 08-28-2011, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flabbymuscle View Post
...Where can I purchase some of the main body parts/panels in order to erradicate the rust?
One of the best places to buy panels is here: http://www.classicent.com
I am swapping my tub with a YJ tub and have minumum rust to fix.

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post #62 of 1104 Old 08-28-2011, 12:12 PM
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Thanks for the info. I'll give them a call this week. Being we're neighbors, hope to see your build on the road and seriously swap some ideas and thoughts.
Rich
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post #63 of 1104 Old 08-28-2011, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Spent the rest of the day cleaning up after Irene. Then cleaned up the garage and rearranged AGAIN. Had to see what my new Crabtree shackles hangers looked like on the frame. I have three more nuts to weld, move the rear tub mounts out for the YJ tub and fix bumper mount up front. Then it is blast/prime/paint.
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post #64 of 1104 Old 09-04-2011, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Did not get a lot of time on the frame today but welded in the missing nut for the rear shackle hanger. Mocked up rear hangers to drill extra hole. Was gonna weld a nut but think I will just fish bolt through since it has easy access.

Contemplating using a hole saw to cut a hole in the rear crossmember into the frame rails to try to clean the inside or at least have a way to get sand out of frame after blasting. Should I weld it closed after that or just leave it open? Thinking 1" hole. Good idead bad idea?
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post #65 of 1104 Old 09-05-2011, 07:29 AM
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When I was restoring my frame, I cut out front openings to have a cleaning access to the inside of the frame, in the future...






...and left them like that. My rear crossmember can be unbolted, so that end can be opened up, too.

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #66 of 1104 Old 09-06-2011, 11:12 AM
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hey paul.

bnu@comcast.net

I have a question for you about powder coating!

Ben

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Great minds think alike, but so do serial killers......Thanks.
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post #67 of 1104 Old 09-07-2011, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Just about done welding on this frame. Going to stop by a place close to my house to see what it would cost to have them sandblast it. Other than reinforcing the existing frame nuts, would anyone run a bead along the main eye hangers? Or is that a waste of time and effort?
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post #68 of 1104 Old 09-07-2011, 11:11 PM
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I think it's a matter of personal preference, Paul. It lasted 30 years with just the rivets. I'd say if they're in good shape to just leave them, but it certainly wouldn't hurt anything to weld them up.

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post #69 of 1104 Old 09-11-2011, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Finished off welding on the botom of the frame today. Made a rookie mistake by not changing into jeans. Yep, got a nice sun burn on my knee. Won't do that again.

Flipped the frame over and made a patch where the bumper attaches. You can see the piece I cut out. Someone cut the inside very close to the mount hole. Also started measuring to move the rear body mount holes. Will cut it out and make a new patch. My measurements show the center of the hole needs to move out between 3/4 to 7/8". Which agree's with what I have read. New piece will look something like this. I do not see that this shape it will interfere with anything.
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post #70 of 1104 Old 09-18-2011, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Finally finished up the frame. Whew.... AND, my welding continues to improve. If I calculated everything correctly (and I think I did), the holes in the rear crossmember are now in the correct place for the YJ tub. Completed the patch up front and welded tab for brake line.

Found a place to sandblast and prime my frame. It is actually cheaper to have it powder coated with an epoxy powder than to spray traditional epoxy. I am torn. Later I will need to grind sections to drill new holes for skid and weld so not sure powder is the way to go. Thoughts?
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post #71 of 1104 Old 09-18-2011, 06:57 PM
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Your frame work looks great Paul. I would not want to have the frame powder coated then have to grind that away later and try to repair. If powder coat ever gets a place in it where water can get under it then it starts coming off, I've had it happen. I'd go with the epoxy primer and a good frame paint.


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(Crabtree Shackle Hangers)

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post #72 of 1104 Old 09-18-2011, 08:04 PM
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Great work, Paul! I was going to suggest getting the frame completely ready before you do powder coating. I've never had a bad experience with it, and I've owned several salt-water boats with powder coated parts. However, guys like Jim have more experience than I with this process, and you can't go wrong with epoxy paint.

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post #73 of 1104 Old 09-18-2011, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, it would be ideal if I had everything ready on the frame but that would mean I would have to take the CJ apart now and not quite ready for that! Once the old frame is stripped I can get measurements for skid holes and front shock tower holes. I want to get it primed and painted before it gets cold out. I can always grind and spot touch up this winter.

The shop has PPG DP90 epoxy primer.

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post #74 of 1104 Old 09-24-2011, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Dropped frame off at sandblaster on Wednesday and will get it back Monday if it is not raining. Decided to spray Epoxy primer myself. Gotta bust a move and order some SPI Epoxy ASAP.

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post #75 of 1104 Old 09-24-2011, 03:02 PM
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Paul I think you'll like that expoxy primer. One of the vendors that sells Zero Rust is also in the auto restoration business and I called him planning to buy some of the stuff. He talked me out of it. He said on clean metal the epoxy primer is better. Needless to say I've been using the epoxy primer and it seems to be the way to go, of course mine isn't done and been on the road for me to say what the true outcome will be.


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