Paul's 1984 CJ-7 Build Thread - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 1074 Old 08-22-2011, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
VACJ7
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Some crappy pics....

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post #47 of 1074 Old 08-22-2011, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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post #48 of 1074 Old 08-23-2011, 08:24 AM
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post #49 of 1074 Old 08-23-2011, 06:00 PM
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with your skid plate issue, i used a t150 with a 83 frame so i had the same missalignment issue. i bolted some 2inch channel steel to the frame and then bolted the skid plate to that. i used some 2 inch square tubing between the trans mount and the trans to compensate for the height drop. it will lower your ground clearance but with a 4 inch lift it dident bother me.
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post #50 of 1074 Old 08-23-2011, 07:53 PM
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Paul I'm anxious to see how the 258 turns out. Those are great engines. Over the years several companies have made great inline-6 engines. Ford had the 300 and Dodge had the slant-6, both were excellent and the AMC 258 is just as good, and in some ways even better. Get the carburetor issues they were prone to have sloved and a doo ignition system then the fresh overhaul and some go fast goodies and you'll have a long lasting engine.
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post #51 of 1074 Old 08-24-2011, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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I'm gonna need a ring compressor. Has anyone used one of the non-adjustable tapered compressors? Just reading various hot rod forums they say they are the best. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-903780/

258 standard bore size is 3.75, correct? So if I am bored .040 over my bores should be 3.79? The closest "minimum" size is 3.78.... would that work fine? It will compress the rings down to 3.78 as it slides into a 3.79 bore?

I've read the adjustable ones can be a pain and break rings and I do not mind spending a little more to make my life easier. Plus it will be worth the money to me NOT to break a ring since I am a novice at this.
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post #52 of 1074 Old 08-25-2011, 03:05 AM
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The difference in diameter between 3.78 and 3.79 diamater is 0.01" which in circumference (DxPI) is 0.032". The gap at the end of the rings will be theoretically closed by this amount compared to how they sit in the bore.

The end gap should be fairly small as it is a leak path. You would normally check this by seating a ring in the bore by itself and then checking with feeler gages how large that gap was. For this kind of application you may need:

Top Ring 0.010" to 0.015"
Bottom ring 0.010" to 0.019"

The change in gap will therefore be more than the end gap you are trying to achieve.

The above is all a bit rough but I am struggling to see how using this device will allow you to compress the rings when you have a smaller end gap.

I can see if you are churning out a number of these engines that this device is really quick and useful. The commonplace collapsing metal cylinder type is fine IMHO and infinitely adjustable. I have in the past when poor, imecunious, foolish and feckless used several blunt screwdrivers to compress it and ease it in. Never lost one yet.

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post #53 of 1074 Old 08-25-2011, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
I'm gonna need a ring compressor. Has anyone used one of the non-adjustable tapered compressors? Just reading various hot rod forums they say they are the best. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SME-903780/

I've read the adjustable ones can be a pain and break rings and I do not mind spending a little more to make my life easier. Plus it will be worth the money to me NOT to break a ring since I am a novice at this.
Can't say I ever used one of those type of ring compressors from Summit Racing but I still have and use my adjustable one I bought from Sears in 1978 that I used on my first engine rebuild, a Chevy Big Block 396, and still use today. Never broke a ring but I always checked ring gap in the cylinder bores before putting them on the pistons as you should also. Sometimes you need to file the gap to achieve the proper gap and remember to stagger the ring gaps every 90 on each of the 4-5 rings on each piston.


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post #54 of 1074 Old 08-27-2011, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Spent some time of the frame and taking a break right now. Started working on the nuts that were still in tact. Drilled holes around each nut and then plug welded. I can't say it is the prettiest thing but I think it is stronger and hopefully not weaker!
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post #55 of 1074 Old 08-27-2011, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Next up.... projection weld nut to replace busted nut. Plan is to cut slots for the projections, fish the nut in and weld. Hit the back side with copper weld primer.
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post #56 of 1074 Old 08-27-2011, 04:30 PM
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Whats your engine rebuilt time line now Paul?

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post #57 of 1074 Old 08-27-2011, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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I'll probably start on it in Sept/Oct. I want to get the frame repaired, blasted, primed and painted before winter gets here.
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post #58 of 1074 Old 08-27-2011, 09:03 PM
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Your plug welds look like they got good penetration, Paul. A lot of guys would have trouble burning into the nuts through such a small hole. If the machine isn't set hot enough, or the welder is inexperienced, the weld will just rest on top of the hole, without penetrating down into the nut.

Nice job!

Rich

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post #59 of 1074 Old 08-28-2011, 10:46 AM
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Western Maryland 84 CJ 7 rebuild envy!

Paul,
I appreciate your step by step accounting as you go. I've just purchased an 84 project myself. I'm compiling a parts list just to get her road worthy. One of the main questions I have for you and the group is: Where can I purchase some of the main body parts/panels in order to erradicate the rust? I'm looking into Quadratrack and Morris 4X4 sites, since they are the ones that seem to seel the main sections, but I'm not sure of the quality. Anyone have any suggestions/opinions?

I appreciate the input.
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post #60 of 1074 Old 08-28-2011, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rixcj View Post
Your plug welds look like they got good penetration, Paul. A lot of guys would have trouble burning into the nuts through such a small hole. If the machine isn't set hot enough, or the welder is inexperienced, the weld will just rest on top of the hole, without penetrating down into the nut.

Nice job!

Rich
Thanks Rich.... it is all machine (Hobart 187) because I am a novice welder!

Welding in the projection weld nut almost looks like I know what I am doing. I am pleased with the way it turned out.

Here is my poor man's third hand since I need both hands on the welding gun. I made a sort of helicoil from wire used to tie rebar. I threaded some all thread into it with the weld nut. Fished if up into the hole and through a bridge I made from some scrap. Remove the wire and thread another nut down onto the bridge drawing the weld nut tight to the frame and had at it. Worked well!
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