Paul's 1984 CJ-7 Build Thread - Page 11 - JeepForum.com

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post #151 of 1107 Old 10-16-2011, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Slow down Paul your making us slow pokes look bad! PM me your address again. I have something for you.
Ohhhh, is it your 360?

Wash, rinse, repeat. I think I washed it 4 times. Alternated between hot soapy water and hot diluted purple power. I forgot I picked up this engine cleaning wand at HF a few months ago but then remembered! For a couple bucks this thing is money! High pressure wash at your finger tips. The angled tip made it easy to clean hard to reach areas. I blew every thing dry with compressed air and is now drying some more in the sun.

Guy at the machine shop recommended wiping down the cylinders with marine fogging oil... which I did.

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post #152 of 1107 Old 10-16-2011, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Decided to send my torque wrenches out for calibration before I start assembly on the engine. Do most assemble the whole thing before painting? Kinda leaning toward taping the block up this week and get the AMC blue on it. Can do the same to the head separately. I may powder coat the oil pan.

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post #153 of 1107 Old 10-16-2011, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by VACJ7 View Post
Ohhhh, is it your 360?

Wash, rinse, repeat. I think I washed it 4 times. Alternated between hot soapy water and hot diluted purple power. I forgot I picked up this engine cleaning wand at HF a few months ago but then remembered! For a couple bucks this thing is money! High pressure wash at your finger tips. The angled tip made it easy to clean hard to reach areas. I blew every thing dry with compressed air and is now drying some more in the sun.

Guy at the machine shop recommended wiping down the cylinders with marine fogging oil... which I did.
Going to have to get one of those wands! That's cool.

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post #154 of 1107 Old 10-17-2011, 10:57 AM
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What is that, welded?, to the center freeze plug?

Interesting build so far. I'm waiting for the tear down portion. I'm about as far as you on my build (and will soon start a thread) but I started with a new frame, used the internal paint, and then POR'd the outside. Now I'm waiting for a stone mason to get done so I can finish up my last "other" project which requires the use of my tear down space in the garage. Then it's time (about 2 weeks yet). I'm rarinnn' ta go!
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post #155 of 1107 Old 10-17-2011, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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It is some type of identifier from the machine shop. Looks like an epoxy type putty holding it on.

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post #156 of 1107 Old 10-17-2011, 12:09 PM
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I believe that is to identify when the engine is overheated.

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post #157 of 1107 Old 10-17-2011, 10:35 PM
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I believe that is to identify when the engine is overheated.
You're correct, Dave.

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #158 of 1107 Old 10-17-2011, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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How does it work? Changes color or something?

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post #159 of 1107 Old 10-17-2011, 10:47 PM
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How does it work? Changes color or something?
The small medallion in the center of the freeze plug is made of a softer metal, like lead. It will melt if the engine overheats. Many engine rebuilders use these freeze plugs when they offer a warrantee. The warantee is void if you cook the engine, and this lets them know that you've overheated it.

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

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post #160 of 1107 Old 10-18-2011, 07:15 AM
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Frame came out great! Now the real fun begins

86 CJ7, 258 Engine, T-177, Dana 300.

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A ton more pics here.

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post #161 of 1107 Old 10-20-2011, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled out the oil pan that came with the engine I am rebuilding and not sure about this thing. It has no skid and no evidence that it ever had one. I placed it on the block and while most of the holes line up, all of them are not perfect. I guess I need to look for a new pan. I thought I read the OMIX and/or Crown pans had fitment issues. Anyone know?

If I can find an OEM pan that is not beat to crap I will go that route. I don't want to use the one on my running 258.... it had a hole in the side at some point that someone welded a patch over.

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post #162 of 1107 Old 10-20-2011, 08:47 PM
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Paul, I think you might have a better paint job if you paint the engine once it is assembled. I still don't know if I had my block and head fully-degreased. I suspect there was some oil in the cast iron pores and the paint will flake off over time. Maybe in time, I won't really care

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post #163 of 1107 Old 10-29-2011, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Kinda stalled for the moment. Had an issue fitting cam but turned out to be a small burr that was preventing it from sliding in. Machine shop took care of it with a bearing scraper. I sent my torque wrenchs out for calibration and glad I did because they both required adjustment. I should get them back on Tuesday. Spent the morning cleaning the crank, cam and pistons. Everything is ready to go.

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post #164 of 1107 Old 10-30-2011, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Well, yesterday it snowed and today was sunny and kinda warm. Got tired of looking at the bare block and garage ain't gonna get warmer as the days pass so...... first light coat sprayed.
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post #165 of 1107 Old 10-30-2011, 04:07 PM
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Looking great so far Paul.


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(Crabtree Shackle Hangers)

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