I am replacing and repairing several panels on my 5. When I weld the patch panels in, ( I have a flange tool and I spot weld to keep the heat down) it is never a smooth fix after I grind it. Is it always expected to use body filler when doing this or am I doing something wrong?
Very seldom, if ever, can you get a welded patch to be so flawless no filler is needed......unless you are really good with a hammer and dolly and have a ton of sheet metal patch welding experience. If you let the metal cool completely between spot welds you may decrease the imperfections but it's gonna be near impossible to get away with zero filler.
'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.
The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her. :-D
I would completely weld it. You'd be surprised all the longer it takes to get a "continuous" weld with just a series of tacks. Just keep jumping around and taking 10 to allow some cooling. As the weld tacs start to build they will absorb a bit more heat. You'll still have some tiny holes that moisture can penetrate so you still need to seam seal over it.
Thanks for the answers....that make me feel alot better. One other thing, should I solid weld floor pans or tack in and seam seal the rest?
With sheet metal you always want to use a tack here and jump across and make another tack. Jump back and forth allowing cooling periods. You dont have to fill the gap 100 % with weld but it doesn't hurt. You can then seam seal and follow with prep/paint. Don't get in a hurry and never run a solid bead
If you're doing a large flat area, you can also keep a "quench rag" handy to cool the welds. I keep a bucket of water next to me with a rag in it. I do a few tacks, then "quench" the area with the rag. Shoot a little air on it to dry it out.. and repeat. This can be especially helpful if you're doing sheetmetal welding and time is a consideration (as in, someone is paying for your time). Allows me to weld, quench, weld, quench, weld, quench.....
'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..
Yep, that's what I did as well. Got a piece of 14ga. 5 1/2" wide with a 1/2" lip on the one edge and replaced the entire rocker. And being that it is a major structural area of the tub (ties to the floor pan and both pillars) I welded it completely (on the inside) and went back a time or two more to get spots I missed. A flashlight on the backside in a dark garage will show you pin holes that you missed. Any left will get sealed with POR and filled with fglass.