patch panel woes - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 19 Old 10-19-2013, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
kjonesie
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patch panel woes

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I am replacing and repairing several panels on my 5. When I weld the patch panels in, ( I have a flange tool and I spot weld to keep the heat down) it is never a smooth fix after I grind it. Is it always expected to use body filler when doing this or am I doing something wrong?

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post #2 of 19 Old 10-19-2013, 10:52 PM
jeepwhore
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Very seldom, if ever, can you get a welded patch to be so flawless no filler is needed......unless you are really good with a hammer and dolly and have a ton of sheet metal patch welding experience. If you let the metal cool completely between spot welds you may decrease the imperfections but it's gonna be near impossible to get away with zero filler.

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post #3 of 19 Old 10-20-2013, 12:50 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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I agree with Jeepwhore, it's pretty difficult to get it perfect.

This was my first attempt at welding. As you can see, a little filler was necessary, but I thought it turned out OK.

Matt
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Patch2-2.jpg   Patch2-3.jpg   Patch2-7.jpg   Patch2-10.jpg   PatchFinal.jpg  



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post #4 of 19 Old 10-20-2013, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
kjonesie
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Thanks for the answers....that make me feel alot better. One other thing, should I solid weld floor pans or tack in and seam seal the rest?
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post #5 of 19 Old 10-20-2013, 09:08 PM
Renegade82
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I would completely weld it. You'd be surprised all the longer it takes to get a "continuous" weld with just a series of tacks. Just keep jumping around and taking 10 to allow some cooling. As the weld tacs start to build they will absorb a bit more heat. You'll still have some tiny holes that moisture can penetrate so you still need to seam seal over it.

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post #6 of 19 Old 10-20-2013, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kjonesie View Post
Thanks for the answers....that make me feel alot better. One other thing, should I solid weld floor pans or tack in and seam seal the rest?

With sheet metal you always want to use a tack here and jump across and make another tack. Jump back and forth allowing cooling periods. You dont have to fill the gap 100 % with weld but it doesn't hurt. You can then seam seal and follow with prep/paint. Don't get in a hurry and never run a solid bead
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post #7 of 19 Old 10-20-2013, 09:12 PM
seabass1858
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im about to repair my rockers so im learning now lol


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post #8 of 19 Old 10-20-2013, 10:36 PM
jetmech1
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There's nothing wrong with a little filler. The technology has come a long way since the days of "Bondo"
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post #9 of 19 Old 10-21-2013, 10:01 AM
Renegade82
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^Yes agreed. And what I would recommend is a reinforced fiberglass filler like Duraglass or Kitty Hair which are both waterproof and rustproof.

The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)

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post #10 of 19 Old 10-21-2013, 10:42 AM
John Strenk
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This is good to know I'm doing it correctly.

Filling holes on my Liberty now.

Reminds me why I like a fiberglass jeep....


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post #11 of 19 Old 10-21-2013, 05:30 PM
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If you're doing a large flat area, you can also keep a "quench rag" handy to cool the welds. I keep a bucket of water next to me with a rag in it. I do a few tacks, then "quench" the area with the rag. Shoot a little air on it to dry it out.. and repeat. This can be especially helpful if you're doing sheetmetal welding and time is a consideration (as in, someone is paying for your time). Allows me to weld, quench, weld, quench, weld, quench.....

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post #12 of 19 Old 10-21-2013, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
kjonesie
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This is one of the major panels that needed help and my progress so far.
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post #13 of 19 Old 10-21-2013, 07:57 PM
astrawn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjonesie
This is one of the major panels that needed help and my progress so far.
That looks good. I've done a good bit of work like that on my 66 Mustang. It's slow, but when it's finished it makes you really proud
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post #14 of 19 Old 10-22-2013, 12:08 PM
Renegade82
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Yep, that's what I did as well. Got a piece of 14ga. 5 1/2" wide with a 1/2" lip on the one edge and replaced the entire rocker. And being that it is a major structural area of the tub (ties to the floor pan and both pillars) I welded it completely (on the inside) and went back a time or two more to get spots I missed. A flashlight on the backside in a dark garage will show you pin holes that you missed. Any left will get sealed with POR and filled with fglass.

The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)

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post #15 of 19 Old 10-22-2013, 02:09 PM
cj5russ
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Gotta love that rust repair.... My tub had a ton of patches, all of which need a bit of filler, some worse than others.
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