the body mount kits are all going to include the grille mount setup in a few weeks (if not already). I remember Keith had a write up showing some of the metal tubes needed to be trimmed but I didn't think it was all? I will see if I can help and put a bug in their ear about getting it fixed. I deal with a few of them through my work that are more than willing to help & fix issues.
The q-trac t-case chains use to only be Morse made in USA chains, but those are no longer made/available so they went overseas, and are working with the manufacturer to improve the design. They were supposed to be fixed, but apparently the manufacturer is still sloppy or just an old unit floating around for sale.
All the tubes need to be trimmed except the two at the toeboard mount. This should be an easy fix for them to get into production at the manufacturing level.. Put 2 long tubes in the box, and the rest short. If I recall there's 12 total enough to do a Scrambler, so you have leftovers if doing a 5 or a 7.
I'm going to stand up for Crown and Omix here because a lot of people have the idea that the parts they offer are junk across the board. This is not the case at all. There are certain items to avoid as we have all pointed out such as the speedometers from both companies and the gauges. Stewart Warner made the original Speedos and if you were to manage to get them to make them again they'd probably be quite pricey. Faria Instruments in CT made the oil, volt, and tachometers, which if I were Crown, since it's only one state over, be going directly to them to make the replacements instead of whoever is making them now. I have found that certain items such as lights, wiper components (except for the blades) some of the rubber parts, are equivalent or better than the originals.
You need to pick and choose your parts wisely, and work with whoever you purchase them from if you have a problem. It's been said many times before that if there's no communication, the manufacturer can't fix the flaws if they don't know about them. If you buy from Q-tec or 4wd or Morris or whoever your favorite seller is, take them to task if you receive a poorly made or defective product. If the complaints are loud and clear across the board, and it's taken back to the manufacturer level hopefully they'll correct it.
Curious question if someone can answer it.. Why was the quadratrac chain exported to China? Borg-Warner/MorseTEC is still in business.. Is it that there isn't enough demand for them to do a production run, or did someone simply cheap out and not want to pay what they wanted to do a run of chains?
'85 CJ-7 Laredo currently under construction.
Just got in a Crown steering shaft pn# J5354934. Perfect fit and finish with the only exceptions being the clamps. I didn't see a clamp for the box end and the one for the column end wouldn't accept the bolt through. (A-)
I have been pretty happy with all my Crown and OMIX-ADA stuff. Recently got shifty knob inserts (A), front blinker assemblies (A), heater control cables (B). I really can't think of anything I got from them that I can't live with.
EDIT: (10/27/2014)- I have changed opinions on the steering shaft. Mine broke and almost left me stranded. The spline at the upper U-joint stripped and I would hate to think what would have happened if I were on the interstate. Kudos to Quadratec fore warranting it quick and easy though. (upgraded to crown heavy duty well see how that goes.)
Last edited by CrankyD; 10-27-2014 at 12:04 PM..
Reason: Changed opinion
Heater or Control Cable kit from Crown. Part #5463657K
Knobs come off the cables. Had to heat the steel of the cable to fuse the knobs back on after two came off.
T4 or T5 Shift Boot from Crown. Part #J5752010
Poor quality rubber with seam that splits apart after less than a year. Not contoured at the base to fit contour of transmission floor cover plate. It is well known that these boots rip apart. Cure, buy an OEM version that are still available from dealer. I did.
Rugged ridge HD steering box bracket. http://www.quadratec.com/products/56...FYgWMgodEgIAAQ
Used the studs and nuts supplied with the bracket. On the first trip out, all of the threads tore out of the nuts allowing the steering box to come loose.
I replaced the studs and nuts with grade 8 bolts, and haven't had a problem since.
78 CJ7.. 258.. TH400/Dana18.. SOA/stock YJ springs.. 35" General Grabbers.. Waggy 44s.. 4.88 gears...Spartan/Lockright...Fiberglass front to rear
I was tired of messing with the factory tube leaking. The braided line from lokar is perfect. Time will tell if it handles the twisting of off-road driving. It is mounted to the firewall. They do have an option to mount it to the bell housing but I am trying the FW first.
Last edited by chris989604; 10-27-2013 at 04:06 PM..
First, the drain plug is in the front. no more fluid on the cross member. It is heavy gauge steel and i can't see bending the flange. I guess you could with enough torque but that is not the pans fault. I installed it with the pan gasket from the Dodge dealer. ( I CAN NOT RECOMMEND THIS ENOUGH). Do not waste your time with anything else. the dealer gasket was 20$??? can't remember, but even if it were 40 it would be a bargain.
Last edited by chris989604; 10-27-2013 at 04:07 PM..
I have a 20Gal poly tank on my '80 CJ5. I had to replace the sending unit and found Advance Auto part No. 17724.13, this ended up being a Rugged Ridge item
I rate this a D
The unit's resistance measurements are correct for the application, and the metal tube is the right length with the correct bend in it. (Hence not a score of F)
I had to modify the unit's mounting bracket so that it would slide into the tank properly. The supplied sock didn't fit the tube, it just slid off and I had to reuse the old one. When installed the fuel supply and fuel return tubes touch the hub nut, I had to bend them up to get the fuel lines connected. The screw stud for the electrical connection was finger loose, which I didn't discover until the tank was installed and I was connecting the wire. After about a week the unit stopped working, when I pulled the tank out I found that the float had filled with gas and was always at the bottom of the tank. I'm glad I saved everything from my old sending unit, that float was still good.
In the end I was able to get the sending unit to work, but it was a very frustrating experience, taking three or four times as long as it should have to get installed and working.
I left feedback for the product on their web site but never heard anything from them.