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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Painting tranny and Tcase
Hey guys, I just got back from powerwashing the Tranny and T case. It looks really good and I think I want to paint it to protect the surface and keep it looking nice/easy to clean.
1. What type or brand paint should I get, any special considerations? 2. Do I need to prime it? 3. What should I tape and cover (ie what should I not paint)? 4. Any color suggestions? Mike PS. This is a copy of my post in my "clutch" thread, but I figured I would get more vis and info if I gave this post its own brief thread.
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#2 |
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Go Wolfpack
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Even after power washing, I'd still scrub it with a brush and either some Marine Clean, Greased Lightning, Purple Stuff, etc.
Any decent paint will do...I don't think you really need any high heat paint....they don't get that hot. POR 15 makes nice engine/trans/etc paints. The local NAPA here carries some of it, or you can order it online. Colors....it's a personal preference. |
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#3 |
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Web Wheeler
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My bud used POR15 on his jeep and likes it. BUT he did say the POR15 did not stick to the Trans that well for some reason.
X2 on the cleaning with to remove the oil residue, brake cleaner would also work. I used black Gloss Rustoleum. Gloss is more durable than Flat in most cases. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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I've been using Duplicolor Engine Enamel for all my driveline components. Everything from transfer case to power steering pump. It's very easy to rattle can on, has a really tough 'enamel' finish, and is resistant to grease, fuel, oil, and heat. It also helps me to use the same stuff for everything b/c I know the finish will match.
__________________
79CJ7/401/NP435/D300/D44/14BFF in progress! Check out my build thread... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/project-chaos-523991/ |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Just use Rustoleum. They make a line called "Industrial Coating" that works pretty well, slightly harder than the standard white can. Here's my line of reasoning: It really does not matter how much prep or paint you do to a drivetrain; it's underneath the Jeep taking a beating from road debris, salt, mud, stones, stream crossings, and even worse, the Jeeps own lubricants. I've found that it's best just to use a light coat of Rustoleum primer and a light top coat, then touch up from time to time when it wears thin because, no matter what you put on there, it probably isn't going to last very long, anyway. Frame is a different story in that it's thinner steel and you're aim is corrosion prevention. Drivetrain parts are heavy cast iron or cast aluminum, though, so you've got a little more time on your side between touch ups.
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My '70 CJ5 Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/my-jeep-build-thread-359375/ |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
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I used mineral spirits, then a cleaning with brake cleaner. Primed and painted with the implement paint from Tractor Supply. Took a week or so to really cure, but looks good. May hit it with clear coat over the whole thing including the unpainted aluminum before I finally get it put back in. Used the same paint on my skid plate. It looked good after about 3 months of use and the oil leak from the tranny and t case didn't do a thing to it. Just wiped it off and looks like when I first painted it.
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Rustoleum. No need to prime. Just prep the surface and lay on a couple of coats:
![]() If ya paint it black, you won't know were it's leaking from.....
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"In the end...It's all Hack." |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Well, my paint project is done. Powerwashed at the self serve car wash, painted the tranny/t-case and also the crossmember. It looks sweet, here are some before and after shots, if I was going to tear it all the way down I could have really gotten after it and bead blast it but for the $40 I spent, I am happy.
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks for the help, Mike |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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![]() Looks like the same color as my spare stuff, I used the Duplicolor |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Hack how did you prep it? Did you rough up the surface first? How did you do it?
Thanks in advance,
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-86 CJ-7 -83 CJ-8 Last edited by TexasCJ7; 04-04-2008 at 07:06 AM.. |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Hack where did you get those stands. Hand made?
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Sam's Club. They're just regular engine stands, I think they were around $40 a piece when I got them.
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"In the end...It's all Hack." |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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I disassembled mine and then cleaned it with mineral spirits. After that I dried it then primed and painted with engine paint. I used Chevy orange so I can see any oil leaks and things like that. The plan is to do the same to the transmission and then the engine block. I went with the engine paint so that the color would be consistant through all three pieces. Here is a before and after pic of the transfer case. It is a d-300 and I am sorry but I don't have any of it totally reassembled.
Before ![]() With Primer ![]() After the paint ![]()
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'78 cj-7, 258, twin stick dana 300 transfer case, NV3550 transmission, scout d44 axles with detroit truetrac, 4.09 gears, black diamond 3.5 inch lift. The rest is yet to come. |
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#14 |
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Member
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I've been thinking of asking the question
when you painted the tranny or xfer case, did you tape anything off or specifically avoid anything?
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________________________________________________ 1980 CJ7 151 4 Cylinder with a SR4 1990 YJ Islander 4.2L,Auto _______________________________________________ |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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I didn't prime mine since the engine paint is rated at a hight temperature. I did tape off the holes and then cleaned all the paint off of the mounting surfaces.
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