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Unread 09-26-2011, 08:06 AM   #1
crushedcan
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painting my cj 7 frame.

I have a 1981 cj7 original. The frame is in unbelievable condition. I have stripped all the original coating and am ready to repaint. What do you recommend for product, application and such.

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Unread 09-26-2011, 08:08 AM   #2
RobsCrawlin7
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chassis saver or por-15

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp
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Unread 09-26-2011, 09:55 AM   #3
Pathkiller
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I used brushed on POR15 on mine, but probably wouldn't do it again. I would probably spray regular epoxy primer followed by a good black chassis coat. POR15 does form a very tough coating, but no tougher than epoxy primer from what I can tell.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 10:17 AM   #4
Falcon_CMH
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This stuff looks awesome but it looks really really permanent from my resesarch for my frame: http://www.kbs-coatings.com/blacktop.html

And for the inside of the frame this looks great: http://www.eastwood.com/internal-fra...ay-nozzle.html
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Unread 09-26-2011, 10:33 AM   #5
bconrad5150
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Any pictures of your frame stripped?
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Unread 09-26-2011, 10:36 AM   #6
Renegade82
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I used the Eastwood internal frame paint as referenced above, and I have POR15 and POR BlackCote to soon do the outside of it. Right now it's still bare metal (new frame). I have some welding to do.
Is your frame on or off the Jeep, you didn't say?
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Unread 09-26-2011, 10:41 AM   #7
Boodyrider
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Forget the POR at direct to metal coatings. They have a nasty habit of peeling on bare metal. Been there, done that.

Instead, since my CJ project was taken to bare metal and sandblasted, I sprayed it with a 2k (2 part) epoxy primer, and I'll be using a 2k ceramic chassis topcoat from Eastwood. This will be non-sensitive to UV, UNLIKE POR15 which will grey with exposure to sunlight. It should also be about 20 times as durable as POR15.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 11:00 AM   #8
crushedcan
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I'll have to post pics when I get home. I can't figure out how on this phone.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 01:50 PM   #9
Renegade82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
Forget the POR at direct to metal coatings. They have a nasty habit of peeling on bare metal. Been there, done that.
You have to first prep and then etch the metal. That's key. Then if it's an area exposed to sunlight you can topcoat it. I don't think I've ever read anything bad about POR besides it's price. The stuff is hard to beat, especially with ChassisCoat Black or BlackCote as a topper.

Interesting Facts you should know about steel and prepping it before you coat it with POR-15:

In every car manufacturing facility, steel in different parts of the car body often comes from different steel mills and different production lots, and the surface texture varies with the condition of the steel mill rolls which cold roll the steel to its final thickness. Also, surface cleanliness varies with the mill’s cleaning procedures, especially the procedures used to control carbon smut. Often, carbon smut is actually baked onto the steel during the high temperature annealing process which follows rolling. This carbon smut is impossible to remove except by mechanical abrasion. Rust varies with the care taken in handling (1) at the steel mill, (2) during transportation and storage, and (3) during fabrication. Steel stored for a long time with rust inhibiting oil will react to form an incomplete oxide known as oil stain. The result of all this is that ordinary steel varies widely in the manner in which it accepts coatings. Although some commercial steel provides an excellent surface for coatings, you are just as likely to find steel which gives poor adhesion and poor rust resistance, even with good coatings. Often the same mill will produce both very good and very poor surface quality, depending upon a number of uncontrolled factors. Nearly all the above problems can be overcome by using POR-15 Prep & Ready before you coat your steel with POR-15.

Think of Prep & Ready as an inexpensive insurance policy that guarantees perfect adhesion of POR-15 to any metallic surface every time. Whether you paint your car or your fence or your outdoor furniture, the problems are always the same, because you don’t know anything about the steel you’re painting or what mill it came from, and you can’t learn anything by just looking at it even if you have perfect vision!

http://www.por15.com/PREP-READY/productinfo/MRG/
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Unread 09-26-2011, 01:55 PM   #10
Boodyrider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
You have to first prep and then etch the metal. That's key. Then if it's an area exposed to sunlight you can topcoat it. I don't think I've ever read anything bad about POR besides it's price. The stuff is hard to beat, especially with ChassisCoat Black or BlackCote as a topper.
Thanks. My TJ frame was taken to bare metal with a 80 grit DA, then etched with the POR MetalReady prior to painting, and all directions followed to the letter. It still did a poor job staying attached.

In 5 years I'll let you know how the CJs frame does with 2k primer, 2k chassis paint from Eastwood, and continual salt blast from living on a tropical island... which my TJ does NOT.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 03:10 PM   #11
Renegade82
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How long before it started coming off or pealing?
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Unread 09-26-2011, 03:24 PM   #12
Falcon_CMH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
Thanks. My TJ frame was taken to bare metal with a 80 grit DA, then etched with the POR MetalReady prior to painting, and all directions followed to the letter. It still did a poor job staying attached.

In 5 years I'll let you know how the CJs frame does with 2k primer, 2k chassis paint from Eastwood, and continual salt blast from living on a tropical island... which my TJ does NOT.
This is why I recommended the KBS stuff (its preppng includes a metal cleaner too which makes a huge difference too). All metal will have condensation under the coatings and unless the coating stops rusts, encapsulates rust, and doesn't degrade its gonna rust and come off. Heating the metal at coating time helps reduce condensation dramatically.
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Unread 09-26-2011, 05:03 PM   #13
bkeese
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This is a popular question today.

I've spent years agonizing over this question and I believe I have the answer! First buy a cheap undercoat kit. I've got 2 one was a professional and the other I believe was JC Whitney. I sprayed POR=15 inside the frame using the long wands and various nozzles (360 degree) that came in the kit. Now spray the exterior of the frame with POR-15, allow to tack up (1 hour) then coat with whatever color coat you want. My case it was a cheap Plum crazy purple. The fact that you sprayed the color while it was tacky, means it is stuck to the POR-15 hard. POR-15 is the original rust paint, everyone else is a pretender. Sandblasting will not remove this paint. My frame sat outside on jack stands for a couple years and the only hint of rust was a tiny pin hole size spot on a weld. Man this thing was beautiful after 2 years. The Jeep is not done, so no real world experience, but I believe you can't go wrong. POR-15 only negative is it is not UV stabilized. Not a problem following my procedures. You won't be disappointed.
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