Painting Driveshafts? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 01-18-2010, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
Cjwho
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Painting Driveshafts?

Can I paint my driveshafts with POR15 / Chassiscoat? I am in the process of painting my axles and small parts and just wanted to double check before I painted the driveshafts. When I am done with this phase I hope to never see a grinder or wire wheel again!

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post #2 of 12 Old 01-18-2010, 04:12 PM
Coiz
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Yes, I did with mine. I know exactly what you mean about grinders and wire wheels.

Mike
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1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
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post #3 of 12 Old 01-18-2010, 04:41 PM
TRex
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I'm planning on doing mine as well. I spent nearly all day with the wire wheel. Those things can get mean. I can inside to wash my face and found a rogue wire had embeded itself almost 1/4" into my forehead.

I don't mind the larbor so much but it's just so damn time consuming.

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post #4 of 12 Old 01-18-2010, 05:00 PM
gmakra
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Why not use 80 grit sand paper on a slow turning grinder about 1000 RPM and that will take off all your paint easily.
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post #5 of 12 Old 01-18-2010, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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On a side note, how much should the front driveshaft compress and extend? Mine is missing the zerk fitting and seems to not move very much. Maybe 3 inches.
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post #6 of 12 Old 01-18-2010, 05:43 PM
ctm
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Take it apart, clean it out, grease it, and put in a new zerk.
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post #7 of 12 Old 01-18-2010, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
Cjwho
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How do I take it apart?
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post #8 of 12 Old 01-18-2010, 06:27 PM
rixcj
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3" is about right. To take a driveshaft apart, you have to unbend the 4 tabs on the metal collar, near the slip joint. Then, do what it takes to get them apart.

You may not have to take it apart. If the slip joint moves the 3" freely, why bother?

Rich

'79 CJ5, AMC 360, t-18/d20 twin stick, dana 30/amc20(Mosers), Edelbrock Performer intake, Holley 600, ps/pb, DUI HEI, 'glass tub/1pc. tilt nose, 33x12.50 BFG AT's.

There's a fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness".
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post #9 of 12 Old 01-18-2010, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
Cjwho
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I am not sure if I can just screw in a new zerk because there still may be a piece of the old zerk in there. o well i will clean it up, paint it, and keep rolling with my rebuild.
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post #10 of 12 Old 01-19-2010, 12:46 AM
pazur
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cjwho View Post
On a side note, how much should the front driveshaft compress and extend?
IMO on CJ, if you lift your right wheel so it is completely off the ground, your should end up just at the start of the splined part
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post #11 of 12 Old 01-19-2010, 01:34 AM
scottymac62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRex View Post
I'm planning on doing mine as well. I spent nearly all day with the wire wheel. Those things can get mean. I can inside to wash my face and found a rogue wire had embeded itself almost 1/4" into my forehead.

I don't mind the larbor so much but it's just so damn time consuming.

You are lucky that it wasn't embedded in your eyeball! I always wear my welding helmet when using a wire wheel.

'77 CJ-5 Renegade 304 / T-150, Dana 20, 30/20 axles, Aussie Locker in the Dana 30, American Racing 15x10 Outlaw II's, 33" Dynapro M/T's" ,Optima Battery, TeamRushed + Summit Racing CDI ignition, FlowKooler water pump, Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold, Holley 4160 390cfm, Herculiner, Silver Ceramic Coated Hedman Hedders, Flowmaster 40's.
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post #12 of 12 Old 01-19-2010, 08:06 AM
TRex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottymac62 View Post
You are lucky that it wasn't embedded in your eyeball! I always wear my welding helmet when using a wire wheel.
Lucky indeed. I was wearing a respirator, safety glasses, hearing protection and a ball cap. I only had a few wires hit what little of my face was showing but my legs had wires sticking out everywhere. It looked sinister-- kinda like Pinhead from Hellraiser.

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