I used Rustoleum hammered finish in several coats, along with a good clean frame and a metal etching primer. I have always used this on ALL of my resto's and have had terrific luck. I haven't every had anything fail, rust, or peel off. Grant it, that is just me, but I like it.
I NEED A SINGLE 15X8 MICKEY THOMPSON OR SIMILAR ALUMINUM BULLET HOLE WHEEL!!!!
I use zero rust. It can do 2000 hours in salt spray. Goes on easy and has a nice OEM look (satin black). Using more tomorrow. My FJ40 frame was done 5 years ago, not a sign of rust anywhere. 6 cans = $48 with free shipping. So good I would not try another. I also treat tough spots with naval jelly as a prep (then scrub off any iron phosphate residue)
I did mine with an industrial 4 coat system from International industrial coatings
3 mils of Interzinc 52
8 mils of Interseal 670 red
8 mils of Interseal 670 buff
3 mils of Interthane 990 black
If I would have had access to some Carbomastic 15 from Carboline paints I would have used that.
Don't use the enamel for the frame. Enamel has no flexibility when it's hard. Rocks hitting it will leave bigger chip marks. It also doesn't have good adhesion to the steel and when you have a spot that starts to rust it can work it's way underneath the enamel surrounding it and spread out.
I used KBS coatings 'frame kit'. No complaints here. It's the competition of POR-15. ZeroRust, RustBullet, and there is one other not listed above would get my attention the next go around though.
Nothing wrong with POR15. I blasted my frame and then metal etched to clean the grease and stuff off but forgot to clean it off. The paint was flaking off in some areas after I painted it. I tried to sand blast it again and man is that POR15 tough. Would not come of. So i cleaned the bad areas and reapplied the POR15 and it is solid.
The biggest negative is the need to paint over it due to not being sunlight resistant.