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Unread 07-10-2013, 08:50 AM   #16
John Strenk
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Summit racing has one for $37.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-34263/overview/

You need to get your price down to around $150.00 for 2 headlight conversion.

I could see quad lights going that high or if you are using high temp sockets for H4 bulbs but those aren't really necessary for 6014 bulbs.

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Unread 07-10-2013, 08:50 AM   #17
eric0o1
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we just run battery power to both of those posts in our harness so either switch will work. Courtesy/dome light power comes from the fuse block and park lights are spliced with the tail lights. Here is a schematic I did for the new manual, schematics for all switches will be like this


walkerhoundvm, that product is at almost every show we do, but I'll bring it to the attention of the people in sales/advertising that it needs to be included in more off-road stuff as well. Our website will always be a lot more that anyone else, we cannot under sale our vendors. Also our website isn't through us it's an outside company called shop-a-tron. I've tried to get the shopping cart removed from our website since the prices are very misleading, but doesn't look like it's happening.
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Unread 07-10-2013, 09:02 AM   #18
John Strenk
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That looks like you could potentially bypass the internal circuit breaker with an early switch.
Also the headlights will come on in the parking light mode with an early switch.

Can I assume that the power feed #928 from the fusebox is protected some way?

Also I notice the front markers will no longer will flash with the parking lights or is that just a simplification in the schematic just showing the parking light circuit detail??
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Unread 07-10-2013, 09:19 AM   #19
eric0o1
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power is fused through a 30 amp fuse at the fuse block. The schematic doesn't show the turn signal wires to the front, it only shows wires related to the headlight switch. The front marker lights will work in conjunction with the front turn signals. I break my schematics down to only show the connection being dealt with, this keeps from overwhelming those who have no electrical experience. I have other schematics that show all wires in the front exterior lighting as well as the turn signal wires being shown in the turn signal switch schematic.

To answer your question, yes the relays are weatherproof. Prices on our product are going to differ from everyone you buy from, the same part can be +/- $75 or more on some of our stuff depending on who you buy from. We charge a certain price to our distributors and then they mark the product up for resale to the end user. They can charge whatever they want but usually have a mark up formula they follow. This one relay part # is a good example of the prices varying. They range from $137-$193 and the only difference is who is selling it. https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...ed=0CEQQgggwAA
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Unread 07-10-2013, 09:43 AM   #20
John Strenk
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Sounds like you got it all covered then.
I would probably replace the fuse with a plug in Circuit breaker though but that would be up to the buyer.

Looks like i'll start recommending your relay harness for H4 conversions.
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Unread 09-18-2013, 08:37 PM   #21
MountainHound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric0o1 View Post
There is also dedicated ground at every component for guys with fiberglass bodies.
Integrated dedicated grounds would be a great addition.

Quote:
I've also upgraded the charge wire to a 6 gauge from a 10 gauge and the inline fuse to isolate the alternator and battery is now a 150 amp MIDI fuse instead of a 70 amp MAXI fuse. The maxi fuse was difficult to find at auto parts stores.
What fuse holder for the MIDI fuse? Like the car audio sort?

I agree with John on the relay conversion harness and the price. I would also suggest making these an option to add not unlike adding quick disconnects to a lift kit at a additional charge before checkout. Just a thought. I personally would have liked to have the ignition module harness as an option or part of the kit.

This one: http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcat...rchField=30812
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Unread 09-18-2013, 09:09 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric0o1 View Post
It's been awhile since I've been on this forum, but my name is Eric and I've been going over our CJ harness, part #10110, to bring it up to date with other model/year specific harnesses I've been doing. The manual for the CJ harness has to be one of the worst of all the harnesses we build, so that is priority #1.

as soon as I am done, it will resemble this one: http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/20114.pdf

I am posting to get feedback from those who have installed part #10110. Iím looking for your suggestions in what you would have changed, what you liked, any kind of criticism or anything about the harness. I have already fixed known issues like clarifying duraspark connections, adding column connections for CJ with nss/backup light switch on the column, and adding factory connections to the tail lights (Weather-Pacs will be provided for those with aftermarket lights and for those who prefer that style connection as opposed to the factory "trailer" plug connections.

For those who are not familiar with our CJ harness, what are you looking for in a harness?

I have gone through this process of seeking customer opinion on our early bronco harness before and really liked the way it turned out.
I imagine you were looking for specifics, and my suggestion may be "mission impossible" given cost/pricing restraints, but I would most like to see true, out-of-box, factory replacement (specific by year) (with all the correctly sized, plastic loom supports). I agree w/another respondant about the option to upgrade to include headlight relays and larger gauge wiring (where necessary) for high energy ignition system upgrades. One last item I would please like to see is a "plug and play" trailer connection harness. I made one just like the ones you can buy for just about any modern, towing vehicle, but it would have been much more convenient to just order it. Thanks for asking.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 08:23 AM   #23
eric0o1
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mountain hound- this is the midi fuse holder that will be included with the kits.


as to making the headlight realy an option during purchase, that's really not an option with the way our distribution works, which is why we offer it all separate. The only way I could include it, or an ignition module harness is to include it all in a box (chassis harness, relay, harness, and headlight relay harness) and give it it's own part number. I will throw the idea around the office to see what everyone thinks about the idea of including these things all in one box, my biggest concern is how the public will react when the price is high.

tchimmerroks- based on another trailer plug recommendation from another Jeep forum, I am looking into, and will probably add, a 4 pin flat molded trailer connector to the tail harness. Then supply a mating connector pigtail 12-18" long that will allow you to slice the connector that fits your trailer to. I have also considered adding this same connector to the front for those who flat tow their Jeep.

As for plug and play, ours is pretty close but is still missing specific engine connections, mainly those that had a control module for the carb. In our experience, most of these have already been removed by previous owners or the customers themselves. As to loom supports, the harness does come with loom pre-installed and I have found plactic clips that fit the factory 1/4 holes across the firewall and inner fenders, these will now be in the kit as well. Push this clip into the hole, then run a supplied zip tie around the harness and through the slot in the clip. This will allow the harness to be loosely routed before any permanent connections are made.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 09:54 AM   #24
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HMMMM

I was just looking at your wiring kits, I was planning on building my own but I may have to give your a try. You mention it is not exactly plug and play, can you give us the list of items that it does not have that the factory harness had, specifically the engine area.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 10:24 AM   #25
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everything relating to the control module for the carb is not included. also, I provide all the wires to re-connect a duraspark ignition module and coil, just not the connectors (they are too expensive to add since alot of people are running MSD or other ignitions). We do offer a separate duraspark harness that includes all the connectors, however this was designed for ford trucks and the module has to be relocated in the Jeep due to the harness being slightly too short for a CJ. Nothing in the harness we are currently selling mentions the manifold heater relay, so wiring for that is not included. Also we do not provide the connectors that go to transmission mounted reverse, nss, or 4x4 switches. All the wires are there just not the connectors.

As to the revised harness, still under reconstruction: I have made the duraspark connections easier by having a dedicated bag and color diagrams on how to reuse your original connectors and will possibly be making a Jeep specific duaspark harness to offer separate. The revised harness still does not include manifold heater connections (lack of usage by most customers), but I have included a factory connector for the the manifold heater and very detailed color diagrams on how to wire a relay using the choke wire, oil pressure switch, and temp switch. This should help those in the colder climates who still require a manifold heater. I am trying to source a manifold heater to measure the amperage draw to possibly create a CJ manifold relay harness. The transmission wires now have an inline connector that will allow you to plug in the factory pigtail harness from the trans, but will also include a pigtail which will allow you to build another a trans harness ( I include connectors and terminals for the reverse switch in the parts kit).

To say whats missing from the engine portion is a little difficult since there are so many variations through the years, what it includes is:
water temp and oil press wires for the gauges
switched ignition power wires for electric choke, coil, alternator voltage regulator, back up/reverse switch, cooling fan relay activation (not cooling fan motor power). These are all open ended wires which are cut to length and then terminated. I provide insulated terminals and splices ans also factory style uninsulated terminals connectors for HEI distributors.
battery power for underhood light (connector pre-installed) & alternator voltage regulator (open ended)

If there's anything specific you are wondering about just let me know
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Unread 09-19-2013, 10:40 AM   #26
S76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric0o1 View Post
I am posting to get feedback from those who have installed part #10110. Iím looking for your suggestions in what you would have changed, what you liked, any kind of criticism or anything about the harness.
Kudo's Eric for asking the question. The fact that you are looking for input shows you are interested in supplying the best product you can. I am fully aware that when you take on this type of project you cannot solve everyone's problems and concerns, but I'm sure much good will come from the experience of the collective.

I have your kit waiting to install but am months away from doing that.

Again, thanks for your efforts.

Bob
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Unread 09-19-2013, 10:46 AM   #27
eric0o1
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Thanks Bob, when you get around to installing it, remember to go to our website and look up the new instruction manual as it will help you greatly. I'm still not through with it but will post here when it is complete and available to the public.

Also I may be in need of someone with a CJ8, I'm to the tail section portion of my manual and this is obviously where the CJ8 differs as far as routing and length go from the other CJ's. I've still got some research to do on my own but if anyone has a CJ8 I may have an offer for you.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 01:39 PM   #28
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Thanks Eric, when its ready let me know, since I have time I will wait for the new kit, and option kits to be available. As for the manifold heater, I could be wrong but the manifold "heater" is just a damper that blocks the exhaust port and forces the exhaust back into the intake. When the "spring" temperature gets hot enough it allows the damper to open (with counterweight). At least that's how my '80 CJ7 is.

If you need a beta tester I'm available.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 05:20 PM   #29
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Eric

Double checked my FSM. The 6 and 8 cyl engines both use bimetallic springs to control the manifold valve to heat incoming air. No electrical heaters.
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Unread 09-21-2013, 12:28 AM   #30
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Thanks Eric
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric0o1 View Post
We do offer a separate duraspark harness that includes all the connectors, however this was designed for ford trucks and the module has to be relocated in the Jeep due to the harness being slightly too short for a CJ.
I understand the cost factor. I do agree with making the duraspark ignition module harness longer/CJ specific. My original dist., coil, and module connectors were very green and corroded and not worth reusing even after a good cleaning. One was broken as well. The reason I opted to get a replacement harness. Couldn't find the connectors so I ended up buying the ford harness and relocating the module to the passenger side.
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