factory tach and clock connections have been added, as well as lighting, ground, power, & signal for aftermarket tachs. There is also dedicated ground at every component for guys with fiberglass bodies. The ground circuit is all integrated in the harness and connects directly to the negative side of the battery. I've also upgraded the charge wire to a 6 gauge from a 10 gauge and the inline fuse to isolate the alternator and battery is now a 150 amp MIDI fuse instead of a 70 amp MAXI fuse. The maxi fuse was difficult to find at auto parts stores.
DJmart, unless the shop was really busy there is no way it takes that long to install this harness. Most can get it accomplished in less than 2 weekends, and even those installs have frequent beer runs. The thing most of your issues have in common comes is power from the "GAUGE" fuse and ground. The radio is powered through it's own fuse so power to the radio will be easy to check. As for the cig. lighter, that comes from the horn fuse, see if the horn works, if so then the only reason the cig. lighter would work is if the power wire is broken or it is not grounded.
The e brake light flickering, are you talking about the one in the cluster? If so, that is ground activated from the ebrake and low brake switch in the engine compartment. I would be willing to bet the ebrake switch is connecting to ground when the engine is running due to vibrations. Unplug the ebrake switch and see if the issue continues. If it stops then look at replacing or fixing the ebrake switch. If it does not fix the issue, unplug the low brake switch. It the issue still continues then the black wire going from the low brake switch and e brake switch to the brake warning light has a short in it and is shorting to ground.
It should also be wired into the ignition switch as it turns on the ebrake light during cranking to verify that the light works. Must of been some federal regulation as it sure made the ignition switch complicated.
, there is an inline fuse right next to the headlight switch connection, this fuse is protection for the gauge light circuit. What did you not like about the sockets?
, the harness will come with a ballast resistor, however depending on the ignition and/or coil it will not be needed by some. What is the difference in the switch? I remember looking at it about 2 months ago and realizing the way we have the headlight switch connector wired it wasn't an issue. Unless I missed something. Also, what relay conversion harness? This?http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=30815
Maybe it's easier to explain with a picture.
Earlier switched had a jumper and this terminal supplied power to the dome light or courtesy lights if you had them. No fuse for parking lights, used power from headlight and internal Circuit breaker for protection.
Later ones didn't have the jumper and the terminal drew power from the Fuse for the parking lights.
Causes some wierd problems if they were mixed up in the OEM harness bur since you make your own harness, you could specify what switch to use. But if your harness follows the later switch a customer plugging in an early switch may have problems.
I guess you could wire it up so it's universal if you use the same circuit to run the headlights also run the parking lights. Like the earlier style. But if you loose one circuits like headlights short out, you loose all lights. Unless you bypassed the internal breaker and run separate circuit breakers off the switch. It must of been another federal regulation to keep headlights and parking lights circuits separate back then.
in more detail
here is the connector for 76 to early 79:
the orange wire coming off terminal #51 goes to the dome light or courtesy lights.
here is a schematic for late 79 to 86:
That same Terminal is now #18-A and runs from the fuse box.
This is it exactly!! I had no clue you made one. THis is nice. Who distributes this? are those water proof connectors on the relays also?