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08-23-2011, 11:11 AM
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#31
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Glendale, Arizona
Posts: 440
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Cory, I have the hood louvers and a 2 core aluminum radiator, running with no fan shroud and I may get to 210 once I stop at a light here in AZ. The Flowkooler water pump may be a good idea too. Don't jump the gun and buy a new radiator until you've checked other possibilities. www.raceace.com for louvers. Are in the Phoenix area? I can show you tthe louvers.
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'78 CJ-7, 401 w/ headers, T-18, 35" muds, 4" lift, MSD ignition box, locked diffs.
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08-23-2011, 11:26 AM
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#32
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 725
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Gunga
Cory, I have the hood louvers and a 2 core aluminum radiator, running with no fan shroud and I may get to 210 once I stop at a light here in AZ. The Flowkooler water pump may be a good idea too. Don't jump the gun and buy a new radiator until you've checked other possibilities. www.raceace.com for louvers. Are in the Phoenix area? I can show you tthe louvers.
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Great thanks a lot! I'm Actually down to the south east in safford (about 3 hours from Phoenix) I think I might try the louvers after I get the fan. I'm tryin to hold off on he waterpump because I really want to run my electric one after I get the over heating worked out
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08-23-2011, 11:32 AM
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#33
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OIIIIO
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Alpine, Tx.
Posts: 3,175
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Cory,
Wondering if this would help. If you are experiencing overheating only when stopped, then how about turning up your idle speed a tad just in the hottes months perhaps.
I have done this on mine, because I like the higher oil pressure I get at prolonged idle periods.
It should speed up the air flow and water circulation enough to cool the engine better. It woul;d be a cheap fix, and not a lot of downside.
__________________
'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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08-23-2011, 11:36 AM
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#34
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 725
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by BioTex
Cory,
Wondering if this would help. If you are experiencing overheating only when stopped, then how about turning up your idle speed a tad just in the hottes months perhaps.
I have done this on mine, because I like the higher oil pressure I get at prolonged idle periods.
It should speed up the air flow and water circulation enough to cool the engine better. It woul;d be a cheap fix, and not a lot of downside.
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Thanks! I've been meaning to anyway I never thought of it that way but that makes a lot of sense !
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08-23-2011, 11:57 AM
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#35
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Monument Colorado
Posts: 5,501
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Read this:
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14_...utomobiles.htm
A 3 core radiator will likely make your cooling problem worse. I have one in my stroked 4.6Liter XJ and I will be swapping back to a 2 core soon.
Water wetter does nothing.
I had a FlowKooler water pump put in last week and went wheeling all day Saturday at high altitudes. The FlowKooler made zero difference in my coolant temps.
I had a 180 degree thermostat and the coolant temps were very unstable. The needle had huge swings under normal driving conditions. I went back to a 195 degree thermostat and now at least the temp is stable.
The one thing I did which helped cool my stroked engine was to put in a high speed Taurus fan. This fan has two speeds. The high speed setting is 4500 CFM. I wheeled last Sat for 5 hours or so from 9000 to 12,000 ft in temps up to the high 80's. I did not overheat as long as I had the fan on high except for long uphill sections. Then I had to turn on the heater once in a while.
I am having hood vents installed next week. I hope that the combination of the taurus fan and the vents will be enough to fix my overheating.
The biggest thing you can do to cool your coolant is more frontal area on the radiator. Read that as bigger radiator.
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08-23-2011, 12:22 PM
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#36
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Prescott AZ., Arizona
Posts: 265
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I'm having same problem with mine, I have a 360 with TBI a 999 trans. i have installed a 3 core radiator, 95%water in my radiator and used red line additive (it says it drops temp 10 to 20 deg. didn't notice anything) elect. fan with my stock fan, trans cooler, fuel cooler, wrap the headers, 180 thermostat, installed vents on my hood, check the timing its good, not running lean or rich.
My jeep will over heat at higher speed or hot days of 4wheeling, if i pull over and let it idle it wont cool down, but by that time it will vapor lock, i am reading the thread vapor lock/vacuum problem AMC360!! on the forum there are a few things I'm going to try, but i will still have a motor that runs hot around 215 to220 on average, I have gone through 2 gauges thinking the first one was bad, what the chances the second one is bad...lol, maybe there is something wrong with the motor
__________________
**** it, GAS IT!
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08-23-2011, 01:34 PM
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#37
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 725
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ericksin
I'm having same problem with mine, I have a 360 with TBI a 999 trans. i have installed a 3 core radiator, 95%water in my radiator and used red line additive (it says it drops temp 10 to 20 deg. didn't notice anything) elect. fan with my stock fan, trans cooler, fuel cooler, wrap the headers, 180 thermostat, installed vents on my hood, check the timing its good, not running lean or rich.
My jeep will over heat at higher speed or hot days of 4wheeling, if i pull over and let it idle it wont cool down, but by that time it will vapor lock, i am reading the thread vapor lock/vacuum problem AMC360!! on the forum there are a few things I'm going to try, but i will still have a motor that runs hot around 215 to220 on average, I have gone through 2 gauges thinking the first one was bad, what the chances the second one is bad...lol, maybe there is something wrong with the motor
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Man good luck that doesn't sound like fun troubleshooting
Quote:
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Originally Posted by foggybottombob
Read this:
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14_...utomobiles.htm
A 3 core radiator will likely make your cooling problem worse. I have one in my stroked 4.6Liter XJ and I will be swapping back to a 2 core soon.
Water wetter does nothing.
I had a FlowKooler water pump put in last week and went wheeling all day Saturday at high altitudes. The FlowKooler made zero difference in my coolant temps.
I had a 180 degree thermostat and the coolant temps were very unstable. The needle had huge swings under normal driving conditions. I went back to a 195 degree thermostat and now at least the temp is stable.
The one thing I did which helped cool my stroked engine was to put in a high speed Taurus fan. This fan has two speeds. The high speed setting is 4500 CFM. I wheeled last Sat for 5 hours or so from 9000 to 12,000 ft in temps up to the high 80's. I did not overheat as long as I had the fan on high except for long uphill sections. Then I had to turn on the heater once in a while.
I am having hood vents installed next week. I hope that the combination of the taurus fan and the vents will be enough to fix my overheating.
The biggest thing you can do to cool your coolant is more frontal area on the radiator. Read that as bigger radiator.
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That's good news my ford Taurus fan should be here in a couple days I do know my radiator is a bit smaller than most conversion radiators has about an extra 2 inches on each side in the grill area. Have you thought about trying a puller in front of the radiator plus your Taurus pusher? Just an idea if the louvers don't so it
I forgot to mention I checked my timing looks good she's right at 8
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08-23-2011, 03:02 PM
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#38
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Monument Colorado
Posts: 5,501
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I should mention that if you buy a new Taurus fan you will not be getting the 4500 cfm version. I have read multiple places that the new ones do not put out 4500 cfm on high. I think that your only choice to obtain one of these is from junkyards. Of course junkyard parts are sold on ebay every day.
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08-23-2011, 03:16 PM
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#39
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 725
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by foggybottombob
I should mention that if you buy a new Taurus fan you will not be getting the 4500 cfm version. I have read multiple places that the new ones do not put out 4500 cfm on high. I think that your only choice to obtain one of these is from junkyards. Of course junkyard parts are sold on ebay every day.
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Yup that's how I got mine it's from eBay but it's an oem they new ones are just guaranteed to fit a ford taurus not actually put out the same cfm
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08-23-2011, 05:06 PM
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#40
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Monument Colorado
Posts: 5,501
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My taurus fan will pull the temp down from 220 to 210 if I am sitting in downtown traffic with the A/C on max when I turn on the high speed switch. I tried that yesterday and outside temp was at least high 80's. It was probably 90.
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08-26-2011, 10:29 AM
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#41
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ky
Posts: 1,091
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we have done 2 conversions my buddy has a 355 around 350-375 hp we have tried everything to keep it cool. it has a 19x22 1 inch 2 core on it. it gets hot on the road. mine has a 496 stroker with double the hp same size radiator i have a 7 blade clutch fan on mine it will run 160 on a 90 degree day driving or sitting at idle. i expected the big block to be the one to run hot. im going to try to overdrive the pump next and see if it helps his i have been pulling my hair out on the thing.
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08-26-2011, 10:39 AM
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#42
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 725
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by kw89425
we have done 2 conversions my buddy has a 355 around 350-375 hp we have tried everything to keep it cool. it has a 19x22 1 inch 2 core on it. it gets hot on the road. mine has a 496 stroker with double the hp same size radiator i have a 7 blade clutch fan on mine it will run 160 on a 90 degree day driving or sitting at idle. i expected the big block to be the one to run hot. im going to try to overdrive the pump next and see if it helps his i have been pulling my hair out on the thing.
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Sounds like we even have the same radiator. Let me know what you find out sounds like were in the same boat does your friend run an electric fan?
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08-26-2011, 11:04 AM
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#43
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ky
Posts: 1,091
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well the radiator should cool it just fine. he is running a 3200 cfm electric we have put 2 different fans on it but it shouldnt run hot at road speed even without a radiator. we chaged heads cam and intake not for the heat but he wanted more hp. same thing it has had a 165 185 themostat i even took the guts out and just put the ring back in runs exactly the same all 3 ways. put a new pump on last weekend same thing. i only have the 1 idea left to try to overdrive the pump for better flow if that doesnt help i give up. he does run 92 gas as well. so if you find the trick let me know ill do the same
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08-26-2011, 11:11 AM
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#44
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 725
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by kw89425
well the radiator should cool it just fine. he is running a 3200 cfm electric we have put 2 different fans on it but it shouldnt run hot at road speed even without a radiator. we chaged heads cam and intake not for the heat but he wanted more hp. same thing it has had a 165 185 themostat i even took the guts out and just put the ring back in runs exactly the same all 3 ways. put a new pump on last weekend same thing. i only have the 1 idea left to try to overdrive the pump for better flow if that doesnt help i give up. he does run 92 gas as well. so if you find the trick let me know ill do the same
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Dang I will. you have check the timing right? Looks like he has a better fan than I do at the moment. Hopefully the 4500 cfm from the Taurus fan will do it. Next step gonna try hood louvers. If those both fail getting another pump even though mine is runnin fine and last but not least radiator.
I forgot to mention I'm not even runnin inner fender wells still getting hot.....
How's the 496 everything you expected? I thought my 383 with a locker and 5.38s sucked gas I could imagine your setup. So surprised the BBC stays so cool! Great build thread btw
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08-26-2011, 11:51 AM
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#45
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: ky
Posts: 1,091
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thanks. i havent drove it enough to know how bad the mpg is. i built the motor for a 3/4 truck to pull hot street class since then it has been on the dragstrip and every where the best it got in the truck with 4:10 and 35's was 9.8 mpg i dont think it will be as bad in the cj alot less to tug around. you might say its way to much motor for the jeep but what a rush. yeah checked the timimg
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