Overflow Tube for Transmission to Tcase fill holes - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-26-2016, 12:33 PM Thread Starter
Dborns
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Overflow Tube for Transmission to Tcase fill holes

I've been trying to figure out a solution to the problem with my transmission and tcase mixing fluids, and I have a couple ideas that I'd like suggestions on.

I've posted a few threads on this issue in the past, but haven't gotten any further than I am right now. I have an AX-15 mated to my Dana 300, using an off brand 7/8" adapter. When I was doing this build, I researched how best to keep fluids from mixing between the two parts, and took my chances with just using a regular oil seal on the Dana. Awhile back, I was checking the transmission fluid, when alot more came out than it should have had, and it wasn't the pink color it should have been. I have no idea where the fluid level is on the Dana, because its clocked flat, so I don't have fluid at the fill hole.

Normally, it wouldn't be a problem, but I can't let gear oil from the Dana into the AX due to it being GL-5. So, unfortunately that means I'm going to have to use Redline MT-90 in each, and thats a total of 6 quarts at $16/ quart. I need to figure out a way to get the fluid out of the fill hole on the AX, and back into the Dana so I'm not wasting expensive fluid. The fill hole on the AX is recessed, and when you take it out, the fluid will run down the side, which has baffles, and that'll cause it to get dirty, and theres no real good way to keep it from running down the case. My thought was to drain both cases, and add four quarts to the TM, and two to the Dana. In a few weeks I can check the TM to see if its overfull again, but I need to figure out a way to do that without losing that fluid.

My first thought was to somehow run an overflow line from fill hole to fill hole. The AX plug would be easy to drill and tap for some sort of connection, but the Dana's fill plug would be hard to do that to. If I could find a flat plug the same size and thread count as the Dana has, this would be ideal because any overfill would flow directly from the AX into the Dana by itself, it would keep me from having to drain and refill, and it would keep the system closed.

I think something that would be easier would be if there was some sort of threaded brass connection that I could install in the AX fill plug, that would also have some sort of valve or petc**k on it. I could drill and tap the flat plug, and thread the connection into it, then run a long rubber line off the valve , and easily drain it every so often, then return that fluid to the Dana.

Does anyone else have any other suggestions?

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post #2 of 9 Old 05-26-2016, 12:51 PM
Offroaddaddy
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The d300 is a sealed unit? How is oil from the d300 getting into your trans?
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-26-2016, 01:05 PM
jeepwhore
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Why not just get it sealed properly so you can use the proper fluid in each one?

I'm in prep mode for a similar set up. You need a sealed input bearing and double lipped seal for the D300 input. Timken part #'s:

Sealed bearing: 209DD
Double lip seal: 473459

That should keep them from swapping fluids.

'84 CJ-17: 17" stretch, locked Toy axles, 5.5" lift, FI, AX15, D300 w/twin sticks, boatsides & junk.
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-26-2016, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
Dborns
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Quote:
The d300 is a sealed unit? How is oil from the d300 getting into your trans?
Its got to be getting past the front input oil seal. When I was researching how to mate these together, there were varying suggestions. Some said the oil seal would be fine, others said I needed to use a sealed bearing on the front input. But I also read issues where that bearing wouldn't last long.... So I went with the oil seal alone.

If anything, I figured I'd lose a little fluid from the transmission, but that it would dump into the space of the adapter. I thought I'd have to get at a pretty big angle for even that to happen, (and this is a street DD), but if it did, the fluid would just rest at the adapter. It's 7/8" thick, and theres a pretty big bridge between the transmission output and the tcase input, but its happening.

I'm guessing that oil seal failed, or maybe I've overfilled the tcase due to it being clocked flat, and it went through the seal and into the TM. Its for sure mixed, as that MT-90 is pink, and what came out was not....
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-26-2016, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
Dborns
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Jeepwhore, I had read about the sealed bearing, but that's the first I've heard of a double lip seal. I read a thread somewhere where a guy had his sealed bearing burn up pretty quickly. Not sure if that was the real case or not.

Replacing those two items aren't out of the question, but it'll probably be the last option I pick. Getting that TM, adapter, and TC to all mate up and not leak was a nightmare. I've even had one of the adapter mounting studs break off, so until I need to break stuff down for clutch replacement, id rather not break the seal.
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-26-2016, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
Dborns
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I will look into that sealed bearing. When I google timken 209dd, it shows its being discontinued.

I know the Novak kits I had looked at in the past had that bearing, but IIRC they were pricey...

Hopefully I can figure out a drain hose or something and holdoff on replacing the bearing and seal until the clutch needs replaced.
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-26-2016, 05:30 PM
CSP
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You need a speedy sleeve made by Chicago Rawhide which will make up for the additional distance between the input shaft and sealing surface caused by your adapter plate. The part number used when a clocking ring is used is 99193.
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-27-2016, 08:05 AM
grapehead
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You need that sealed bearing. It's what I used in my d300 behind an aw4 and it is doing fine. I found mine on ebay, but my purchase history won't go back far enough to find the part #.
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post #9 of 9 Old 05-27-2016, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
Dborns
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I did find that bearing on other sites, so just the one was showing discontinued.

I'm still hoping to do something with the plug for now. I've already got the 6 quarts of MT-90 shipped, and I ordered another full plug in case I damage mine drilling and tapping it.
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