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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:46 AM   #226
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Also have one of these on the way courtesy of my lovely wife!



Should have it this week some time.

Happy New Year!!

WSS

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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:54 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSS

Also have one of these on the way...
.

Very nice, especially after all of the hardwork you put into this CJ!

Looking forward to the installation write-up.

Happy New Year!


.
.
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Unread 01-06-2014, 01:16 AM   #228
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For some reason, the fire suppression system was treated as hazmat and shipped by rail. Took the long way around too due to storms. I am still waiting for it. The extra nozzle kit is already in and was ordered 2 days later.

I decided to spend the new year and this weekend doing a few things that I have half finished and vague ideas of. I started by drawing up some rock rings and cutting them on a nice piece of 1/4" plate I have had stashed for the occasion. I have enough to build real beadlocks but have decided it may be ovekill as this shaping up to be a expedition style rig for the family. I am settling for rock rings. I drew about four (five-ish) different styles but liked this in the end and it passed the family vote.

Many I looked at online and in google images had notches or reliefs on the outside weld surface, to me the notches moved the rings into the "cause it's cool looking" category. I decided a true solid welded ring will be what we need and will add strength to the outer bead plus give some sidewall protection.

The next step was looking over my existing chrome wheels, the chrome is peeling rather bad and the lips have some serious rock rash. Not so bad that it could not be hammered out and ground down, but enough for me to look at some new wheels. Not bad really, steel rock type wheels for about $56ea delivered. This will also eliminate having to have the Jeep on jackstands for more than day while I prep, weld and paint the old wheels.

The wheels will be welded using 70s6 mig wire in .035" wire on a automatic weld head positioned over a rotary axis (positioner). I do most of the positioner work in our shop but usually running 1/16" wire on stuff that weighs 200 to 1000lbs, so this will be considered "fine" work, something my shop is not accustomed to, but it should be just two crafts meeting in the middle I hope. I see most steel wheels are welded in one continuious pass, starting and ending at the same spot, I hope to do the same and cool right away in a tub of water.

Heres what I have so far:

nested test w/offsets and leads applied



65amp, 80ipm, 140v. Zero dross!


As cut............



fit test on a wheel note valve stem reliefl............



After fit test and go.........



Cuts were good w/ no clean up!........



Edge quality..................

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Unread 01-06-2014, 02:07 AM   #229
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SKT, Happy New Year!!

Thanks for the post too.

Here is the next item on my to do list. Finish my tube doors. I built the frame last winter and put them aside. I liked the structure of them. They are 1x.120 tube and feel solid. I am going to do a very similar hinge to the stock soft doors but just heavier. I will make them modular/removable without tools so the soft doors can still be used with the soft top. The latch will be a simple T spring handle, the same as I used to hold the rear swingout open.

The doors will be skinned inside and out. The inside will be brushed aluminum and probably have some type of molle system or a few Velcro'd map and storage pouches. The outside will be "replaceable". The official family vote was for brushed aluminum outside as well. I was beat two to one. My choice was 22ga CR steel painted to match the cheery yellow. So, in the event the brushed does not hold up too well, I have the dxf drawing with bolt holes ready to cut.

Not much done today, but the drawing has passed the double check on math and the bolt hole spacing check.





Here are the dxf of the outer skins...........





The cutout is from the Hot Wheels Test Facility logo. If you have never seen the HWTF World's best driver video on youtube, it is a must watch. It is rigged but my five year old does not know it YET. One great feature of the video is the gear the drivers wear. It makes wearing a helmet "cool"

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Unread 01-06-2014, 07:41 PM   #230
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Those are awesome. I can't wait to see the finished doors.
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Unread 01-09-2014, 09:03 PM   #231
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Ok, the fire supression system is in. I decided to get on that project, as i had $$ out on it. The doors and rings are projects for when i am out of projects. I hope that makes sense.

Here is the system laid out :



The pull actuator, very high quality, feels solid and is made of aluminum:



Nozzles, an4 fittings and aluminum tube. All high quality. Note the bottom fitting in the bag, it has a slot in it, this is a 180 degree nozzle, there are three of them:



The bottle, it is a 2.3 liter bottle and about the same as a 5lb chem extinguisher:



Here is the "mix", it is the AFFF concentrate that is mixed with water, note the small piece in the bag taped to bottle, it is the rupture disc that gives way when the Co2 cartridge is punctured:



I decided to mount in front of passenger seat on floor, a 2.5lb chem extinguisher was mounted there previously, not much room was lost. I checked to see f it would fit the storage compartment under the seat, but I was an 1/8" shy and did not want to force it, anyway that spot is full of tools. The clamps are SS and follow the trend of quality parts in the kit:



Here is the bottle mounted but not tightened:



I went to my local speed shop and bought some nice An4 90's and straights and a foot of the braided hose. Looks better in the cab plus it is a bit flexible. I think this is better than the aluminum tube for flexibility and durability due to proximity to feet. less likely to break or come loose:



It is taking much longer than I thought, but I am only getting an hour or two at a time to work on it. It has been real busy around our shop.

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Unread 01-09-2014, 09:53 PM   #232
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It's looking ok at best...

Haha jealous of you man. How much for a set of beadlocks custom?
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Unread 01-10-2014, 09:07 AM   #233
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You supply material and some ideas for design and I'll draw and cut em. Seriously, I have some nice beadlock designs for 15" wheels. They are using the 32 bolt design, plus I have a good anti-coning insert. A drawing/cutting forum I am on has lots of guys that post up their BL files and trade em for free.

Let me know when your ready, you'll be the brave test guy.

I am doing rings for now, if I link the rear or get stupid serious about the rocks, then I'll probably go the BL direction. Right now the rig is pointing toward the expo side, but I do get lots of "rim rash" from kissing immovable objects that appear from nowhere like gremlins.
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Unread 01-10-2014, 09:13 AM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WSS
You supply material and some ideas for design and I'll draw and cut em. Seriously, I have some nice beadlock designs for 15" wheels. They are using the 32 bolt design, plus I have a good anti-coning insert. A drawing/cutting forum I am on has lots of guys that post up their BL files and trade em for free. Let me know when your ready, you'll be the brave test guy. I am doing rings for now, if I link the rear or get stupid serious about the rocks, then I'll probably go the BL direction. Right now the rig is pointing toward the expo side, but I do get lots of "rim rash" from kissing immovable objects that appear from nowhere like gremlins.
I can draw a design and send it to you. They would be for 17" wheels as it would be for the jk but I'll keep in touch. It won't be for a little while as I'm still low on moola
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Unread 01-10-2014, 05:44 PM   #235
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Keep me posted, would be cool to have a 17" lock file. The critical areas are the outer dia. of the inner locks' lip and the placement of the bolt holes for nut clearance. Make sure to leave a spot for the valve stem, or fill the old hole and re-drill a new valve stem location standing vertical, plus leave some center room, that seems to be what people can't agree on, is how small you make the center cutout, the smaller it is the more custom you can get but still gotta be able to break the back bead.

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Unread 01-14-2014, 09:45 PM   #236
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Another update on the fire supression system. It is going slower than I would like due to "work" getting in the way. I managed to get the pull cable mounted on both ends and tested for actuation, it pulls out almost 2" to actvate, that was considered in range. It feels smooth to pull and looks to be effective.



Made a custom "under dash" mount for the handle, it clears everything good and can be reached by both driver and passenger while five pointed in.



I had a custom tag made for the safety clip:



Actuator in home/cocked position:



Actuator in the fired position, this pushes a pin into the Co2 cartridge and activates the system, the rising pressure ruptures a thin brass disc that allows the foam to flow:



The Co2 mixes with the AFFF and water to react and create the suppressant. Looks like a good system. I called the number on the instructions today to ask some questions about flow and nozzles, and spoke with the owner. He was knowledgable and had clear answers for my questions. The big thing is how Co2 and air differ under pressure, very different.

I used two bulkhead AN4 fittings to get through the tub, the bulkheads "tee'd" so i have one of them capped (or will when all wrapped up). I did get one nozzle plumbed over the tank. The pattern is 180, so one will cover the entire tank. It still needs a little tweaking for aim but the hard part is done. I used the rubber covered clamps provided and riveted them tight. After the clamp was fixed, I put some liquid tape on the whole area to prevent water damage and rust.

Tube headed for the rear (tank) nozzle:



one of the clamps and liquid tape under tub:



Routing under tub/over crossmember:



Back of actual nozzle:




Anyone see anything I missed or should be concerned about?

WSS
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Unread 01-19-2014, 09:07 PM   #237
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Well, it is an active fire suppression system as of tonight. The engine compartment nozzles will give plenty of coverage and are not in the way. I had to fab up two brackets for the mounts. The nozzles are mounted either side of the grill and up as high as I could get them. There is about a inch gap at th top. This may be a problem if it gts crunched but there are two, so one should cover the other. I went with SS braided line under the hood to keep it clean and durable.



Pass. side nozzle:





Driver side nozzle:



both nozzles and braided line across front, this line is now clamped with coated clamps in two spots:



I used a straight edge to sight the nozzle level so it would spray across the top but not hit the inner top of hood:





Here you can see the clamps on either side of radiator cap:



The system filled and the cartridge loaded. Here is were I ran into a few concerns. Fisrt, the cable can be kicked from the fitting at the aluminum box and activate the system. The cable is suppose to thread into the mount but it slides out with a little tug by hand. I put a little epoxy on it hoping to firm it up, we'll se tomorrow if it set up.

The second issue was the head leaked a bit when laid on it's side, this tells me the rupture disk is not in right or something. I followed the instrutions to a T! Could be it will set itself after a day but I doubt it. I will have to check the fittings in a day or so to see if AFFF is present.



Close up of trigger and cartridge:



The suspect cable:



The final tag location will be up, easier to pull out if I forget or find I like it the peace of it being there:



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Unread 01-19-2014, 10:07 PM   #238
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I hope you never have to use it but that is one well designed/effective setup
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Unread 01-20-2014, 11:36 AM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seabass1858 View Post
I hope you never have to use it but that is one well designed/effective setup
Ya, it's like insurance and underwear: no one sees it and better have it when you need it!!

ps, some of the pics show the rough texture of the liner that we were talking about.



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Unread 01-20-2014, 01:42 PM   #240
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I should have my whole floor lined in a couple weeks, I still have it at the body shop.
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