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#1 | |
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Registered User
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One Peice Axle ????
Hey guys just a quick question....On the one piece axle setup's for the AMC 20....What acually keeps the axle from pulling out of the axle housing. I know you no longer use the center nut and was just wondering if only the four bolts that hold on the back brake plate are what keeps the whole thing together.
Thanks for any tips, Carlos ![]()
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: los angeles, CALIFORNIA
Posts: 46
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i just replaced the one piece axles on mine due to a bearing failure. you basicly have your axle shaft, retainer, outer seal, some kits call for shims- some dont, your brake backing plate, your outer bearing gets pressed on and finally a bearing retainer gets pressed snug against the bearing so it cant back itself out. essentialy it is held into the axle housing via outer retainer with bolts, but they seem pretty stout to me and dont look like they are going anywhere.
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Rectum? hell- ya damn near killed em! |
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#3 |
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Web Wheeler
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In short, the brake backing plate and it's 4 mounting bolts.
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#4 |
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Registered User
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The others are correct regarding retention of 1-piece axles. I used a Moser 1-piece axle set for a few years and never had a problem with it.
However, for even more ease and safety, I'd recommend a full floater kit. Warn makes an excellent one. In that system, your wheel hub is held onto the spindle just like the front wheels are. In fact, since there's no axle u-joints like the front axle, the axle half-shafts can be removed from the axle tube without even removing the wheels. You get locking hubs similar to the premium front locking hubs, except they are internal hubs rather than external hubs. If you should ever break a rear axle on the trail (which is highly unlikely since they're about twice as strong as the 1-piece axles), you can just fish out the broken end of the shaft and keep going. If you have a rear locker, even better -- you're still have poer to the rear wheel with the unbroken half-shaft. I like the Warn kits because the inner nd outer races and bearings are the same as the front. So I can carry one set of bearings and races in my onboard spare parts box and it will work on any of the four corners. You service the rear wheel bearings just like you do the front wheel bearings. Which means that you can clean and re-grease them after deep water crossings to prolong the life of the bearings and races, just like the front.
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1977 CJ7, AMC360 V8 w/ headers, DUI HEI, Edelbrock intake, Holley 4150 carb, , TF999, D300, D30 front and AMC20 rear with 4.56 gears and lockers both ends, 4" susp lift, 2.5" body lift, 35" BFGs, ARG steering, 8000-lb winch, etc. |
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#5 |
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Member
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Thanks guys...can always depend on ya!
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: los angeles, CALIFORNIA
Posts: 46
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oh yeah, do your self a favor and triple check that the brake backing plate is facing the right direction before pressing the bearing on- i learned that the hard way.
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Rectum? hell- ya damn near killed em! |
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