Old Man EMU 2.5" YJ to CJ Suspension Install - Page 72 - JeepForum.com
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post #1066 of 1075 Old 04-03-2017, 07:20 PM
ADDZ71
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1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Fort Mill
Posts: 212
Still not happy with the Warrior 1745 plates and I am wondering if I got sent the wrong set. Both skid plates (L&R) have a wide u-bolt hole and a narrow u-bolt hole. I am expecting that only one would have the wide u-bolt hole. I am going to call Warrior again tomorrow to find out if I have the wrong set. I spoke with them on the swaybar issue and they kinda shrugged and told me to try and run it without a swaybar since their plates don't have that provision.

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post #1067 of 1075 Old 04-04-2017, 03:08 PM
ADDZ71
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1979 CJ7 
 
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Location: Fort Mill
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Just an update for the history of this thread. The Warrior skid plates require extensive modification to work with the U-Bolts from Rubicon Express and do not include a provision for attachment of a swaybar that the 76-8X have. I spoke with the guys there. So unfortunately, while the Warrior is a great looking product I am returning it and going with the RE 2050 universal skid plates which have slots for the u-bolts and attachments for a swaybar.

The basic issue is that the Warrior skid plates have both L&R with a wide u-bolt set of holes with only the right side needing it. The resulting problem is you either have to drill out more holes in the Warrior plate to accept the smaller u-bolt or I guess you could try and find a second wide u-bolt.
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post #1068 of 1075 Old 04-05-2017, 10:13 AM
waynaferd
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I just ordered 2 new rear cj plates to use up front, but don't have a sway bar on mine

Either way modifications need to be made!!

A 55 '5 and a 77 '7
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post #1069 of 1075 Old 04-11-2017, 10:18 AM
LeadfootCJ7
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I have a 4" skyjacker lift on my CJ (17 years old). I need to replace one of my rear springs and was looking at doing a YJ conversion. I have a Ubolt flip kit and already have 1/2" lift HD shackles for the front and rear. This makes buying an entire conversion kit very expensive for only a few of the parts. I understand why the front spring hangers need to be changed. Why do the rear spring hangers need to be changed?

I wheel and already catch my front shackles on rocks and such. I am leary of deteriorating my approach angle any more. Has anyone moved the rear spring hanger with success? Not sold on this, just tossing it around.

Also, it would seem that the longer YJ springs in the front as well as moving the shackle hanger forward would move the axle forward. How much did the axle move for those who have done it? I ask because I have HD steering tie rod and my pitman arm is close to it. This is with a MORE HD steering box mount that moved the steering box forward.

At this point it seems I need 4 YJ springs, a new set of front shackles or modify what I have, front shackle hangers, and possibly rear shackle hangers. Is there anything I am not thinking of?

81 CJ7 4" lift, 35's, Detroit lockers f&r, 4.0 head, Weber carb, NV4500 Dana 300, Warn M8000 etc
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post #1070 of 1075 Old 04-11-2017, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
Matt1981CJ7
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Hi Leadfoot,

You don't have to change anything in the rear. The YJ springs are a direct swap. I would use new axle U-bolts, however.

On the front, the YJ springs are approximately 1-1/4" longer eye-to-eye than CJ springs. The axle is centered on both type springs. Therefore, moving the front shackle hanger forward to accommodate the YJ springs, results in the axle moving forward approximately 5/8" (1-1/4"/2 = 5/8") from the stock location. That's no problem for stock tie rod clearance, but I can't speak for your HD tie rod.

I suppose you could move the fixed hanger rearward 5/8" and the front shackle hanger forward 5/8". That would leave the axle in the stock position, but would be considerably more work.

Matt


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post #1071 of 1075 Old 04-11-2017, 05:59 PM
waynaferd
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I just went with the 1" longer rubicon express conversion shackles and knock on wood no issues and it works fine with the longer front springs

A 55 '5 and a 77 '7
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post #1072 of 1075 Old 05-26-2017, 02:31 PM
UnderEngineered
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Hey all,

Hopefully this weekend I'll be finishing up my axles. Which means I'm getting to the point in my rebuild that I need to put the leaf springs on. I have some idea of what I want but still have some questions.

My parts list:
Purchased:
  1. 2 x Rugged Ridge 18265.18 Heavy Duty Rear Greasable Shackle (Pair) without Bushings for 87-95 Jeep® Wrangler YJ -
    When I bought these shackles I didn't realize they were a 1 inch lift. Which, since they're YJ shackles I believe that makes them a 1.5 inch lift over CJ shackles. I'd like to go stock YJ shackle size but trying to find stock size without out bushing appears to be hard. I might buy some OME shackles but I prefer not to since they're $120 for a pair
  2. 2 x Old Man Emu OMESB57 Leaf Spring Bushing Kit for 87-95 Jeep® Wrangler YJ -
    I bought these when I bought the shackles. I think they're too wide for the shackles I have. So like I stated before I might get OME shackle. Thing is I can buy new shackles and bushing for less than just the OME shackles. Any advice here is really appreciated.
  3. 4 x Crown Automotive 52002553 Shackle Sleeve for 87-95 Jeep® Wrangler YJ -
    Bought these to make the bolts for the shackles I have compatible with OME
  4. 1 x Mountain Off-Road 7686RSH25Y Rear Shackle Hangers for 76-86 Jeep® CJ with 2.5" Wide Springs & 1-1/4" Diameter Bushings
  5. 1 x Explorer Pro Comp 50020 Rear Axle U-Bolt Kit

Need to buy:
  1. 2 x Front spring plates. - I'm thinking RE 2050 since I'd like to add a sway bar
  2. Rear spring plates - Going to go with my stock plates
  3. U-Bolts (Front) - Probably going with Rubicon Express Front Axle U-Bolt Kit RE2435
  4. 2 x Front shackle hanger -
    So here is the thing about the front shackle hanger. I prematurely drilled out the rivet before I knew CJ to YJ conversion hangers existed. Now I don't know if I should use standard YJ hangers or still get a conversion pair like the M.O.R.E. Front Shackle Hangers 7686FSH25YJ. What are the pros and cons here?
  5. Springs - I'm planning on buying 4x Old Man Emu CS036R per advice in this thread.
  6. Shocks - I figured Id wait to buy these until I can measure the distance between my mounts compressed and uncompressed. Probably going to get OME shock per advice in this thread.

So that is what I have going on so far. Most of the purchases I made were from a while ago so that I could tow my frame to get it sandblasted. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

1979 CJ7, 258, 3 Speed


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post #1073 of 1075 Old 07-03-2017, 10:20 PM
FlyerDude
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Starting my OME upgrade tomorrow....

After pouring through this exceptionally educational thread several times, I finally felt comfortable enough to order up my parts.

I'll get started in the morning. I'll post pictures and notes after I finish. Hoping to complete it in a few days, depending on how many surprises the old girl has for me.

Here's a before shot of my totally original (even the shocks) 1986 base suspension.
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post #1074 of 1075 Old 07-13-2017, 09:27 AM
HenleyCoug
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Franktown
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Hi all, first post here. I just finished reading through this thread. Thanks to all who have contributed. Tons of great information. I'm getting close to ordering parts for this conversion on my stock '85 cj-7. Will keep you all posted. Thx!


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post #1075 of 1075 Old 07-17-2017, 10:48 PM
FlyerDude
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Tampa
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After OME

I'm mostly complete with my conversion. I'll post my parts list in a day or two. I ended up with 2 1/4" lift in the front and 1 3/4" lift in the rear (measured at the rocker panel just behind the front wheel and just in front of the rear wheel). The rake is 3/4" down in the front measured at the same places. The original rake was 1 1/4" down in front. I used 14F springs in front and 37R in the rear as my goal was to minimize total lift. I like the new stance and the ride improvement is amazing.

At least on mine, the stock length sway bar end links will not work. At full droop they can go over center and probably damage the tie rod. I really didn't plan on end links and I'm working on a DIY solution. For now I'm running without the sway bar but will be replacing it soon.

Had real issues with finding the correct bushes and have a workable solution mounted but will be swapping them out eventually. I'll write more on the bushing saga in a future post.

I thought I had studied this but missed a few details that cost me time in the build. It's not a daily driver, so it was no big deal. I plan to post up my full parts list with notes of the pitfalls I ran into.

This is one excellent thread and the mod is totally worh the cost in both time and money.

Here's an after shot. I'm really happy with how well it works.
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Last edited by FlyerDude; 07-17-2017 at 10:52 PM. Reason: General grammar fixes.
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