Old Man EMU 2.5" YJ to CJ Suspension Install - Page 43 - JeepForum.com

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post #631 of 1038 Old 11-29-2013, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
Matt1981CJ7
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hold,

If I were to do it again, I'd piece my suspension together. My kit had a bunch of unnecessary extra pieces, and a few necessary ones that were missing.

Good luck,

Matt

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post #632 of 1038 Old 11-30-2013, 11:23 AM
jetsnjeeps
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I Bought mine from Rocky Road Outfitters. Very complete kit with good instructions. Get the heavy duty rears if you have a full size spare and/or hard top.

http://www.rocky-road.com/cj-ome.html

Cheers!
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post #633 of 1038 Old 12-29-2013, 03:56 PM
locohosa
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Wow, what a great read! Combine this with GoJeepin’s suspension basics (38 pages long) and I cant help but wonder what knowledge I have forced out of my head to make room for all this new CJ Knowledge.... Hopefully nothing important!

I am starting with the stock suspension on my 1984 CJ-7, that rides like a bucket of fail, and the previous owner put brand new 33 inch tires on to make it oh so much worse. They don’t rub badly unless I disconnect the sway and really flex it, so any amount of lift will make the difference. I also do not fear going to some bigger bump stops if necessary.

A few questions, I am sure they were answered, Im just clarifying.
• I was unable to find the OME shocks for the CJ still available anywhere. (Except for as part of the ok4wds Granite kit) Do you know if they still exist?

• My boss has a hook up with ARB, he asked for an ARB part number and said he can get me a deal, so I found this Kit: Part Number ARB7686XH Looks like bushings and required bolts/sleeves are included. Is this kit missing anything aside from the Shocks and Shackles?
o Any YJ shackles should work, yes?
• If he doesn’t come through for whatever reason, I am going to order one of these: OK4WD Granite Kit with OME Springs OR Rocky Road OME kit I have heard questionable things about Rocky-Road and them getting the right parts delivered to you in a timely manner.
o If I buy the Rocky-Road kit, I could get the shorter CJ Length shackles if I didn’t want as much lift, or get longer bolts for my existing shackles, correct?
• Im not sure if I will be using YJ or CJ shackles yet, if I use the CJ shackles, then I need a 4 degree shim. If I use YJ Shackles, then I most likely need a transfer case drop kit and 6 degree shims. Is this correct?

• Lastly, I am going to get some sway bar disconnects. I didn’t find any by ARB, so I am getting this kit: Rubicon Express Sway Bar Disconnect Set. Do you suggest any other good mods (Steering braces ect) while its apart?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jetsnjeeps View Post
I Bought mine from Rocky Road Outfitters. Very complete kit with good instructions. Get the heavy duty rears if you have a full size spare and/or hard top.

http://www.rocky-road.com/cj-ome.html

Cheers!
Have you installed this kit? Were you satisfied with shipping and customer service?
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post #634 of 1038 Old 12-31-2013, 11:31 AM
TrebleHook
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locohosa
• Im not sure if I will be using YJ or CJ shackles yet, if I use the CJ shackles, then I need a 4 degree shim. If I use YJ Shackles, then I most likely need a transfer case drop kit and 6 degree shims. Is this correct?
I have the Heavy OME 2.5 springs with Currie YJ shackles and 4 degree shims...balls-on 6 degree castor.

1983 CJ8 Scrambler Laredo - 258 MOPAR MPFI/T-5/Dana 300 - 4.10 Dana 44 Rear/Dana 30 Front w/ ARB lockers front/rear - 4" BDS Suspension w/ Fox 2.0 Shocks - Ground Pounder Fab Front Shorty and Rear Spare Custom Bumpers - PSC Steering w/ Borgeson Shaft - 33x10.50 BFG KM2 on 15x8 Mickey Thompson Classic III - Work in progress.....
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post #635 of 1038 Old 12-31-2013, 03:53 PM
vinnyabs
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Hehe. Balls.

Earning an engineering degree one CJ7 hiccup at a time
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post #636 of 1038 Old 01-01-2014, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetsnjeeps View Post
I Bought mine from Rocky Road Outfitters. Very complete kit with good instructions. Get the heavy duty rears if you have a full size spare and/or hard top.

http://www.rocky-road.com/cj-ome.html

Cheers!
I have the heavy rears and lite fronts (no winch), I go topless in the summer, and have the space saver spare, hard top on the winter, but does not go out and play in the snow.

I have a slight body rake (rear higher that the front) Wish I had the lite rears.

Someday I will do one of the following. 1) take the lift back out, OME "kit" is great and it rides excellent, just would like a more stock appearance. 2) Take the rear springs off and get them re arched a 1/2 inch lower)

I'm not contradicting just supplying information

Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Web Site http://www.lever-family-racing.com

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/
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post #637 of 1038 Old 01-08-2014, 02:18 PM
sjc115
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I just finished reading all 43 pages, and the pdf on suspension basics. That's a lot of info!! Thanks to all who took the time to take pictures and keep us up to date on how things worked.

One thing I still haven't figured out. Why use 4 rear heavy load springs, when they sell front heavy load springs for $25 less (http://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_5032.htm)? What is the difference between them?
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post #638 of 1038 Old 01-08-2014, 02:31 PM
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjc115 View Post
I just finished reading all 43 pages, and the pdf on suspension basics. That's a lot of info!! Thanks to all who took the time to take pictures and keep us up to date on how things worked.

One thing I still haven't figured out. Why use 4 rear heavy load springs, when they sell front heavy load springs for $25 less (http://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_5032.htm)? What is the difference between them?
Big difference is ride quality and how you will use the Jeep.

I have no front winch to support. I was also told the light duty spring would allow the front axle to articulate better, I can not comment on that as I rarely go off road. I was told heave duty springs if you run a hard top and spare. I have light duty in the front and heave duty in the rear, there is a slight rake to the front and if I did it over would have light duty all the way around.

Again it is all about how you will use the Jeep.

Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Web Site http://www.lever-family-racing.com

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/
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post #639 of 1038 Old 01-08-2014, 02:43 PM
sjc115
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Glenn: Did you use a light duty "front" spring, or a light duty "rear" spring? I'm pretty sure I have seen both front and rear springs in heavy, medium and light load options. My question is why use a rear spring when there are three options for front springs that can be had for less money? I feel like I missed something somewhere in the 43 pages of reading I did over the last two days.
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post #640 of 1038 Old 01-08-2014, 03:06 PM
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjc115 View Post
Glenn: Did you use a light duty "front" spring, or a light duty "rear" spring? I'm pretty sure I have seen both front and rear springs in heavy, medium and light load options. My question is why use a rear spring when there are three options for front springs that can be had for less money? I feel like I missed something somewhere in the 43 pages of reading I did over the last two days.

I have the light duty in the front and heavy duty in the rear.

I think the choice is really determined by how you use the Jeep. Daily transportation on highways without heavy bumpers and a which I would think the way to go would be light duty all the way around. That is what I would do if doing it over.

Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Web Site http://www.lever-family-racing.com

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/
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post #641 of 1038 Old 01-08-2014, 03:12 PM
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What we have here, is a failure to communicate...

The world would be a better place if being stupid hurt...
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post #642 of 1038 Old 01-08-2014, 03:15 PM
sjc115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post
I have the light duty in the front and heavy duty in the rear.
I'm not doing a good job of explaining my question.

Why use (4) CS036R springs instead of: (2) CS014F's in the front and (2) CS036R's in the rear? Both part numbers are listed as being 'heavy duty'. The CS014F's are about $25 cheaper.
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post #643 of 1038 Old 01-08-2014, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjc115 View Post
I'm not doing a good job of explaining my question.

Why use (4) CS036R springs instead of: (2) CS014F's in the front and (2) CS036R's in the rear?
Because the CSO14F is a 1.75" lift and the CSO36R is a 2" lift. Using the 14Fs in front and the 36Rs in back will cause a noticeable rake, especially after the fronts sag a little.

Keep it simple and buy the 36Rs all the way around. That's my take.

Matt
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post #644 of 1038 Old 01-08-2014, 05:09 PM
Kstein
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I went with CS014F's in the front and CS037R's in the rear. This is a good setup for a lighter load (e.g. no winch or hardtop), plus I wanted to minimize the amount of lift.

TAMC85 CJ7
Still Original: Tub, Rollbar; Frame; 258 Block; T176; DANA300; Steering; DANA30; AMC20; Drive Shafts; Wheels; Tank; Altenator; Fan; Frt Bumper; Speedo; Heater Box; Spare Carrier; Seat risers
Replaced: Radiator; Valve Cover; Clutch linkage; Taillights; Frt Brake Calipers; Fuel, Tmp, and Oil Pressure Gauges; Exhaust line; Seat Belts; Paint
Mods: Mopar MPI(in progress); 4.0 Al Cylinder Head; OME YJ Suspension; MC Seats; Tub liner; 31" Tires
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post #645 of 1038 Old 01-08-2014, 06:37 PM
waterdowg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Because the CSO14F is a 1.75" lift and the CSO36R is a 2" lift. Using the 14Fs in front and the 36Rs in back will cause a noticeable rake, especially after the fronts sag a little.

Keep it simple and buy the 36Rs all the way around. That's my take.

Matt
Hmmmm..... I wonder if you could use CSO14F in all 4. This would give a little less of a lift but still get the ride. Any issues this that?
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