Old Man EMU 2.5" YJ to CJ Suspension Install - Page 40 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Old Man EMU 2.5" YJ to CJ Suspension Install

TeraFlex Now at Rockridge 4WD! BEST DEALS around!Alloy usa heavy duty ball joint kitsENGO QUADLUX 6" to 54" LED AMBER AND WHITE MULTI

Reply
Unread 05-07-2013, 01:12 PM   #586
BlueRhino
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Belmont, NC
Posts: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by cabbage23 View Post
Both kits use PT307 for the fixed spring end.

Kit OMESB57 uses 4 identical sized bushings at the shackle end.PT 306.

Kit OMESB87 uses 2 different pairs of bushings for the shackle end to allow for the shackle hanger (sometimes) being slightly wider than the spring. They are made specifically for one of the OME shackle kits. It uses bushings PT320 and PT321. The main difference between the two is the height/thickness of the flare/lip.

PT320 has a 6.5mm high lip (spring). PT321 has a 4.3mm high lip (hanger).

There are some other differences. PT 320 & 321 have an ID which is 0.1mm bigger than PT 306. The outside diameter of 320&321 (not including the lip. ie the bit goes goes in your spring hole ) is 0.4mm bigger than PT306. I doubt these <0.5mm differences would be of concern, but I dont know yet i havent tried it. They appear to work well for others in this forum (i cant remember what shackles they used, but im getting the SB87 Kit and i dont have OME shackles).

Info here on pages 104 & 106:

http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/on...de_current.pdf


Hope that helps!

Rob
Thanks Rob -definitely helps! I was mainly worried that the shackle hanger bushings in the OMESB87 kit would be slightly shorter (dimension L in the PDF you linked to) and would therefore allow more grease in from greasable shackle bolts. After checking fitment with everything, it looks like I'm good. I'm using a set of Crabtree shackle hangers from and shackles from Rugged Ridge (part number 18265.18, see here). Small gap separating the bushings in the middle and should allow grease in. Everything fits tight, except no sleeve around the shackle bolts in the middle of the bushing... seems a bit loose, but maybe that's how it is in order to let grease out. There's essentially no difference between the two bushing sets in that regard.

EDIT: confirmed after re-reading through a bunch of these posts that a sleeve is needed. Ordered 8 from M.O.R.E. to fit my bolts.

You guys rock.


Last edited by BlueRhino; 05-07-2013 at 02:00 PM.. Reason: confirmed need for sleeves.
BlueRhino is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 05-07-2013, 03:23 PM   #587
rispony
Registered User
1981 CJ8 
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Winter Park, Florida
Posts: 31
For anyone interested. OME 2.5" lift (4x CS036R's all around, N56 shocks rear, N41 front shock, and with 0" lift YJ Shackles (1/2 inch CJ lift) sitting on BFG AT/KO 32x11.50x15



Zoomed in.

__________________
Follow my 1981 Jeep CJ-8 Scrambler build!

www.JeepCJ8.blogspot.com
rispony is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 05-07-2013, 05:05 PM   #588
VooDoo2
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 677
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueRhino View Post
Thanks Rob -definitely helps! I was mainly worried that the shackle hanger bushings in the OMESB87 kit would be slightly shorter (dimension L in the PDF you linked to) and would therefore allow more grease in from greasable shackle bolts. After checking fitment with everything, it looks like I'm good. I'm using a set of Crabtree shackle hangers from and shackles from Rugged Ridge (part number 18265.18, see here). Small gap separating the bushings in the middle and should allow grease in. Everything fits tight, except no sleeve around the shackle bolts in the middle of the bushing... seems a bit loose, but maybe that's how it is in order to let grease out. There's essentially no difference between the two bushing sets in that regard.

EDIT: confirmed after re-reading through a bunch of these posts that a sleeve is needed. Ordered 8 from M.O.R.E. to fit my bolts.

You guys rock.

If you use the OME bolts there is no sleeve required. The OME stuff is designed for their own bolts and not anything else. Using a smaller bolt and a sleeve negates the greasing function.
VooDoo2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 05-07-2013, 08:50 PM   #589
cabbage23
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: west australia
Posts: 9
100% right. If only you could buy the pins without the shackles. Seems that's impossible.
cabbage23 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 05-07-2013, 09:53 PM   #590
VooDoo2
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 677
Quote:
Originally Posted by cabbage23 View Post
100% right. If only you could buy the pins without the shackles. Seems that's impossible.
I tried as i dont have access to parts like you guys in the US do. Short of making them myself the only option was to buy the OME ones.

I also had the issue of a wonky shackle but mine was the rear. A short drive around the block has it sitting right now. I believe the springs needed to settle a little as i checked and rechecked all tensions, bush placement and alignment and it takes a bit for the grease to move all the way around and coat the bush so in places could have been a bit stuck. Im using Jims shackle plates (make sure they are aligned on the chassis right too)
VooDoo2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 05-08-2013, 02:48 AM   #591
cabbage23
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: west australia
Posts: 9
Voodoo2 I hear ya mate. I'm in perth. Hence why I refuse to spend more $ on a second set of shackles. Shipping is the killer so I have to make do with what I've got. People here, even at ARB, have never heard of a cj. The usual response is "you mean a wrangler right?"
cabbage23 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 05-08-2013, 03:47 AM   #592
VooDoo2
Registered User
1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 677
woops, didnt realise you were a local. (Cape york in CJ's for june/July 2014!!!)

As for the4 bush, you can sand the end down so its about 3mm think as per my photo. The spring is slightly smaller than the shackle. a belt sander will work but go slow and dont let it melt.

ARB are pretty useless. My shackles didnt work as one of the plates hadnt been threaded correctly so i needed to wait 2 weeks for replacements. They dont supply the non shackle end bolts so needed to buy seperately and dont get me started about shocks and steering dampers.
VooDoo2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 05-08-2013, 09:39 AM   #593
Renegade82
Web Wheeler
 
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,710
Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo2 View Post
Using a smaller bolt and a sleeve negates the greasing function.
Not necessarily. The bolts will still grease the space between them and the sleeves, which are the 2 pivoting surfaces. This is how the Rock Granite conversion kit that OK4WD offers is. Sleeves with 1/2" bolts at the shackles and then a 9/16" bolt (and ome sleeve) for the stationary ends.

edit: After looking at the SB87 kit, it comes with a sleeve for the stationary end, so a sleeve & bolt is their intention too.

edit #2: The pivoting surfaces are the sleeve and the bushing, so the sleeve must have a hole or two to allow the grease thru.
__________________
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
Renegade82 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 05-10-2013, 11:07 AM   #594
billygote1
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Linden, VA
Posts: 29
Any differences with a dana 44?

This is an excellent thread and has been a tremendous help in answering questions about the conversion swap. I am getting ready to install this same conversion on my '86 laredo with a rear dana 44 axle. The kit sold by quadratec specifically says it's for an amc 20 rear axle. I called the help desk at Quadratec to find out if there was a kit specifically for the d44 and they said no. Does anyone know of any install problems I would encounter when installing it with a dana 44? Any suggestions or insight is appreciated.
billygote1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 05-10-2013, 01:05 PM   #595
Mr. Boh
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: MD
Posts: 576
I think the only difference between the Dana44 kit and the AMC20 kit are the U-bolts.

Got a question for you guys. Would you see any issue getting just the OK4WD Granite Kit and running stock YJ springs & shackles? So I'd still get the benefit of wider springs and 1/2" lift but I could save up for awhile to purchase either the BDS or OME kit at a later time. Any other parts required outside of the Granite Kit, YJ springs and shackles?
Mr. Boh is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 05-16-2013, 04:28 PM   #596
billygote1
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Linden, VA
Posts: 29
Torque specs on shackle bolts

I've looked in the forum and even in the factory service manual but can't find torque specs for the shackle bolts. I was wondering what you guys torqued yours to. I apoligize if this has been covered and I missed it. Any advise is appreciated.
billygote1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 07-10-2013, 10:32 AM   #597
Oily
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Kerrville, Texas
Posts: 1,568
Another lift install -thread revival, .
This a daunting thread, at 40 pages. I got through Matt's install (about page eight), taking notes but then got bogged down with information overload. Many questions I may have may have been answered in the next 30 pages, maybe not. I also want to share my experiences.
I got ARB's ARB7686XH kit, with the recommended ARB shocks for $1,157.00 shipped to my door. From 4WD. Their add had conflicting info about if shocks were included and their salesman assured me they were. They were not, but 4WD gave me all four $100.00 shocks for just $100.00. Props to 4WD customer caring.
I laid out all the parts and checked them off against the parts list. The "parts description" is vague at best, leading to questions of where they go. The parts also are not numbered so you have to figure out if you really have that part included. I seem to have all of them.
A few questions on the parts. The front spring plates have two studs protruding from them. My old ones had just one, for the sway bar. I assume that the other is for the shock. Do I have to remove the old lower shock mount from the axle housing ? I will anyway if it is not going to be used. Remove it using a cut off wheel on a die grinder. How thick is the axle housing ?
I also received four rear spring packs. Is this right ?
The bushings. I have four separate packs, ok. They are yellow, and one pack will do one spring. The kit's "spring conversion package" has eight red ones. The thing about that is, there are not enough. 16 yellow ones but just eight red ones. The red ones are a little different, in that they have ?passage ways? in the inside surface (I think that these must be greaseable bushings).
The kit also comes with eight grease zerts/fittings. I see nowhere for these to go on the parts supplied. Not even the bolts.
The assembly instructions. I started and it does note to use specific numbered parts supplied with the hardware pack. 'Cept the parts themselves are not numbered. I will figure out what is what but questions come up when I am trying to decide what is what. Maybe you can help. There is a longer flat bar, 1 1/2" wide by 8" long with four hols in it. Another flat bar is 1 1/2" wide by 3 3/4 long with just two holes in it. What are they for ?

Ok, on to the install. Per recommendations earlier in this thread, because for now I am gonna reuse my CY shackle hangers, I went to get new and longer shackle hanger bolts. I opted for stainless steel, for looks. Was the bolt guy right ? I asked him if they were grade eight. He said, ... stainless is not rated that way.
So, I start on the passenger side rear. Since we have to replace the shackle hangers, replace their mounting bolts. As noted earlier in this thread, one member had his bolts break upon removal. Necesatating broken bolt extracting and threatening reliability on the trail. (Stock CJ's should do this under maintenance). Mine were pitted/corroded. I have a factory tow bar which interferes with the reinforced shackle hangers. So I have to trim it shorter.

I am looking forward to your help, . Better than making it up as I go along, .
Thanks.
Oily is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 07-10-2013, 01:43 PM   #598
Renegade82
Web Wheeler
 
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,710
The second stud is for the shocks on narrow track axles, 1981 and older. If you have a bracket on the backside of the axle then you have a wide track axle that doesn't use the second stud on the plate. Which should be right since you have an 85 model.

Your parts listing does sound confusing, almost like you got a hodge podge of parts to work for several different applications.

Stainless steel bolts are not as strong as grade 8 and my understanding is they are more brittle. I would get some grade 8's to replace ALL your bolts you remove. And a coating of anti-sieze won't hurt either.
__________________
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
Renegade82 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 07-10-2013, 05:09 PM   #599
S76
Registered User
1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Stafford Springs, CT
Posts: 388
Quote:
Originally Posted by billygote1 View Post
I've looked in the forum and even in the factory service manual but can't find torque specs for the shackle bolts. I was wondering what you guys torqued yours to. I apoligize if this has been covered and I missed it. Any advise is appreciated.
I spent a couple hours trying to figure this out on the web. Answers were all over the map.

Some say just snug so the bolt can rotate...They are wrong!

Others say 40 ft lbs......Could be.

I used a standard torque chart for wet 9/16 12TPI bolts and came up with around 150 ft lbs. But way before I got to that torque I could tell it was starting to crush the sleeve.

In the end I just tightened them up with 2 wrenches so they were tight and let it go at that. Guessing around 50/60 lbs.

Just make sure when you tighten them tight, they are tight against the sleeve, and provide a little clamp up on the poly bushings. Like 1/16' on each side.
__________________
If you always do what you've always done. You will always get what you've always got.
S76 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 07-10-2013, 08:27 PM   #600
Renegade82
Web Wheeler
 
Renegade82's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Lewistown, PA
Posts: 3,710
On the sheet that came with my Warrior shackle it said to torque to 30 but even 25 is plenty since it has a nylok nut on it. And if you think about it, your only going to draw it until the sides hit the sleeve. At that point you'd only tighten it to compress the lock washer, if it had one, but since the nylok nut takes care of that "locking", your done. I tightened mine to 27 ft/lbs., all 12 bolts.
__________________
The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
Renegade82 is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.