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Old Man EMU 2.5" YJ to CJ Suspension Install

605K views 1K replies 179 participants last post by  80cj 
#1 ·
Hey gang,

I'll be tackling this install on my 1981 CJ7 258, today, and would appreciate any tips I can get. I got it from 4WD.com

It appears the rear end is pretty simple....space the brake line and bolt everything on.

The fronts are more involved, since I have to do some grinding to install new shackle hangers, but I've got a fair handle on that.

I'm most concerned about drivability issues, afterwards. I went with the 2.5" package because I wanted to avoid castor and driveshaft problems. I know shimming to create the correct angles isn't difficult, but it seems kinda band-aid-ish to me.

Anyway, I'd love to hear from any of you with experience with this kit.

Matt
 

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#844 ·
So shave the inside face of the top bushings, so that everything lines up.

This isn't an exact science, nor is it rocket science. The idea is to have the shackles hang straight, with a slight pinch on the bushing collars, top and bottom.

Edit: It also looks like you have the factory shackles on backwards. The bump-out on the shackles should go to the outside.

Matt
 
#845 ·
question - i've read several threads on this, but the PO had already put a skyjacker 2.5" kit on my CJ ... so was wondering what components I actually need v. can reuse from the skyjacker kit if anyone's done this?

was looking at OME HD springs up front (SBCv8), and medium in the back for the best ride quality? Does anyone happen to know what other components would still be needed to get this swap to work? As it sits I like the height at 2.5", but the front definitely has a rake to it - assuming it's the added weight of the v8 that the skyjacker kit can't compensate for ... plus it rides horrible, darn near snap your neck if you hit a bump and aren't braced for it
 
#846 ·
I don't see why you couldn't just convert the front to save some money, might ride a little high while the new springs settle though. Check out my post #806, that's a good parts list. One thing I would recommend is spending the extra money on Crabtree Shackles, that's my biggest regret.

I also could never get a good response on if you should also convert to YJ length shackles (I did), or stick with CJ length shackles..
 
#847 ·
orange150 said:
I don't see why you couldn't just convert the front to save some money, might ride a little high while the new springs settle though. Check out my post #806, that's a good parts list. One thing I would recommend is spending the extra money on Crabtree Shackles, that's my biggest regret. I also could never get a good response on if you should also convert to YJ length shackles (I did), or stick with CJ length shackles..
I stuck with the cj length shackles on mine and it seems fine. Rude quality is great!
 
#849 ·
would the currie shackles for CJ's work with the MORE hangers and OME springs? These also come with bushings, figured I'd kill 2 birds at once getting shackles with bushings

Currie Front Greasable Shackle Pair

For 76-86 Jeep® CJ

Quadratec Part No: 16051.201
Manufacturer Part No: CE-9035A
http://www.quadratec.com/products/16051_201.htm
 
#855 ·
#856 ·
hmm, the RE plates were listed somewhere back on page ....?? don't recall (edit, page 17 post 500) - lol, this thread is great except it's long and lots of options. the picture of the plates don't show the hardware, but the description lists:

so ... will work??
This is one of the reasons I went with a prepared kit. It's pricier than piecing it together, but you don't have worry about all the little details, like....

- Do those spring plates allow for the one wider u-bolt on the front right spring without modification?
- Does the U-bolt kit come with the one wider one?
- Do the Daystar bushings work with the OME springs?
- Do the MORE front hangers move the eye of the hanger forward 1.25" like they need to be? Do they use the factory holes, or do you have to remove the frame rivet to position them correctly?

All of these details are worked out in a quality kit.

Matt
 
#858 ·
The RE plates work for the odd u-bolt, IIRC they are slotted to fit different axle tubes. Just make sure you buy enough stud kits for your shocks and sway bar links. I will say I used antisieze on my studs, figuring if I bent/broke one it would be easier to remove without the rust holding them in. I have tightened them twice now. Use blue thread locker, it seals them so no rust yet saves you my hassle I now have.
 
#860 ·
- Do the MORE front hangers move the eye of the hanger forward 1.25" like they need to be? Do they use the factory holes, or do you have to remove the frame rivet to position them correctly?
Yes, they do if you buy the conversion hangers (wider), have the bushing hole moved forward. However, if you are using longer shackles then there is no need to move them forward
 
#861 ·
cool, just waiting on the shackles to get here so i can tackle the upgrade .... c'mon fedex get em here tomorrow!!!

edit: nope....4wd.com = slow shipping .... ordered 5/30 .... still waiting
 
#862 ·
so finished this swap finally - for others searching, figured i'd post my results for the shopping list:

This is what I ordered:
(2) OME 2.5 rear medium load leaf spring for Jeep YJ (I went with medium ... I have no hardtop and no backseat)

(2) OME 2.5 front heavy load leaf spring for Jeep YJ (sbc V8 ...)

(2) energy suspension spring bushings kit (black) for Jeep YJ (update: this kit works, but you will have to cut down the 4 larger ID sleeves about 1/8" for the frame mounts (front and rear). There are 2 larger ID sleeves in each kit, those are for the frame mount bolts. Also note that if you get the MORE shackles, they come with bushings and sleeves ... so if you can source the sleeves and bushings for the frame mounts elsewhere that'd be the way to go ... because I have a pile of leftover bushings and sleeves now :D

(1) Currie CE-9040 front shackles kit for Jeep YJ (come with bushings/sleeves/greasable bolts)

(2) Rubicon Express RE2050 2.5 Spring Plate (comes with stud for swaybar ... if you also need a stud for shocks you'll need to buy 2 extras, my 83 didn't need it since the shock is axle mounted)

(1) Rubicon Express RE2440 rear M20 U-bolt kit for Jeep CJ

(1) Rubicon Express RE2435 front U-bolt kit for Jeep CJ (this includes the 1 larger Ubolt for the diff)

(1)MORE 7686 FSH 2.5 YJ spring shackle hangers (front/pair) - these have a hole for the rivet so you don't have to bother grinding that out. works with the stock CJ bumper - but I had to take the bottom bolt out and will swap in a smaller one (not a big deal, the bumper is there for looks and lights not much more than that)

following are optional for the rear:
(1) Currie CE-9030 rear shackle kit (pair) for Jeep YJ (don't need, can reuse the stock rear CJ shackle - but these come with new bushings/sleeves/greasable bolts and are WAY more stout than stock ones)

(1)MORE 7686 RSH YJ spring shackle hangers (pair) (don't need new rear shackle hangers, you can reuse the existing ones if they're in good shape ... but even my relatively rust free 83 CJ7 benefited by these heavy duty hangers and new grade 8 bolts)

the bolts for the hangers are 7/16 x 14 .... i'd suggest just getting new ones all around (8). My jeep is in good condition, but when you see where the bolts and capture nuts have lived for over 3 decades you'll understand why they're almost certain to be in bad shape - they get doused with water, mud, and all else from the tires. I used a tap to clean all the threads out too - I did try to reuse one bolt, it snapped of course but fortunately had enough to grip and remove it.

overall I like the result, much more compliant and now when I hit a bump I wasn't expecting I don't feel like my neck is about to snap. I already had a skyjacker 2.5" lift on the jeep from the PO but didn't have an extended rear soft brake line ... as I was working on the suspension realized it needed one - so I got a longer one from quadratec. Brakes aren't something to risk for the cost of longer hose and a few minutes to swap it out (speedbleeders = nice to have for quick 1 person brake bleeding)

also, as discussed elsewhere in this thread noticed I have about 1/8"+ space in the shackles between the side plates and the bushings. With my setup, they're YJ springs, YJ shackles, YJ hangers ... so I didn't trim or cut the sleeves or bushings. I drove it about 50 miles tonight, including about 15 miles at 80+ mph ... didn't notice any slop and the springs didn't look to have moved around. Given all the parts are for YJ, I'm guessing the space is designed to be there - the sleeves keep you from tightening them down enough to squeeze the bushings. Hope this helps the next guy thinking about doing this ... it's worth it imo

shocks - again, I had the skyjacker kit on mine so kept those skyjacker shocks
 
#863 ·
Hey Everyone,

Been following this one for a while , and have read a lot of it but nor all 58 pages !

I have YJ stock springs on my CJ7, had them for years but it is time to replace them.

I have heard great things about the old man emu, I don't really want a lift but 2.5 inch is not much. All I want is a smooth ride.

I have a small winch and a 258, If I remember correctly front and rear are the same size. Should I do the softer of the 2 in the front and medium in the back (soft top version) or can I do even softer all around.

Thanks in advance!
 
#865 ·
Personally, I think you'll be happier with the heavy rears all the way around. That provided a level stance on mine with a 258 and winch.

The ride may be slightly stiffer, but it will still be a huge improvement over stock springs, and they won't sag as quickly.

Just my 2 pennies, and a pocket full of lint. ;)

Matt
 
#864 ·
Hey Goodtohave... Yes, this thread is awesome and was incredibly helpful for me as well. I've been meaning to post an update on my build to say how great the ride is with my OME setup. It was a huge improvement from Day 1 but got even better as I put some mileage on.

I intended to have rear YJ springs all around (based on advice here), but the installer used front springs (CS014F heavy) up front instead (with CS037R light rears), and I never bothered to have them "correct" it. The only complaint (for some here, not me so much) is that this produced a slight fwd lean. I have a 350 sbc under the hood but no winch, have a back seat but no rear tire or hardtop, so the slight droop might not be the case for you with a lighter 258 and a little weight in the back from a spare. I'm over 200 lbs and something tells me it levels out when I'm innit, anyhows..... and it rides GREAT.

I'm also told you can remove a leaf from the rears to settle it if needed -- I actually how it looks with the ride height up front, so this is probably something I'll try soon to lower the rear. And/or I might put the spare back on, which will probably drop it a tad on those bendy rears.

Anyway, based on my experience you should have a great ride (and be pretty level) with heavy fronts and soft/medium rears, depending on what you are carrying at the back. Again, I'm running heavy fronts and soft rears and still have the nose down an inch or so, so soft in front and medium in back will likely produce a similar nose-dive with your 6 cyl and winch. Unfortunately (or fortunately?) you will find folks on here sharing their positive experiences with a few combinations, so it's tough to answer definitively. In fact, someone will probably be on here telling you I'm full of it in t-minus 3....2.....1....

The only 100% sure thing is that you should get the OME stuff. it's brilliant.

Good luck!
 
#866 ·
as i posted above I went with ome HD up front (v8) and medium rear (usually empty, no rear seat, no hard top, no spare) - has a rake to the front, but given that I drive at 75+ on the superslab I think having the rake is probably good idea to keep traction on the steering tires. the ride is great - though i read descriptions it'll ride like a modern SUV (not quite) but its WAAAYYYYYYyyyy better than the skyjacker cj springs were (WAY! better)
 
#871 ·
What has everyones measurements been for shocks?

I have been getting crushed at work lately and just have not had time to get this done; and quite frankly would rather spend my time simply replacing shocks.

I do (or will, it's still sitting in the shed) have an 8274 on the front bumper if that makes a difference.
 
#873 ·
Had a chance to put a few miles on my new OME Lift on a 1980 CJ7. upgraded to an ADDCO sway bar with RE disconnects. It is incredible from hard corners and 65+ on the freeway. I also did a Draglink and tie rod flip. 2.5 degree shim seems to work well and have a 4 degree to test after I put a few miles on her. This post was without a doubt my goto in this project...Thank you Matt 1981cj7....Ken
 

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#877 ·
Kernerator - I got two questions and they're not meant to be critical, just observations. The Jeep looks great. Aren't those shackles on backwards? And those degree shims look to be cast aluminum ones like Rancho includes. Keep an eye on them, they known to crack pretty easily and then work themselves away from the center pin.
 
#878 ·
Just Curious . . .

Kernerator - I got two questions and they're not meant to be critical, just observations. The Jeep looks great. Aren't those shackles on backwards?
The Jeep does look great . . . heck, it looks fantastic, but I'm curious about the above because one of us has our shackles on backward and I'm not sure who it is. (Given my history, it's probably me . . . :laugh:)
 
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