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Unread 01-29-2008, 06:20 AM   #1
jayjay
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Oil woes 84 CJ7, 258

Recently I have noticed a build up of oil, resembling white lithium grease. It is mostly around the interior service at the Oil filler cap. I was runing Mobil 1 but have sinced changed it to Castrol (non-synthetic. Performed three oil changes, fixed a leaking PVC vacume hose, but still see a grease type sunstance congrigating at the filler area. I went as far as taking the cover off and found the grease like substance clinging to the interior surface of the cover.

Has any one else experianced this and if so, what did you do to elliminate it.

Thank you,
Jay

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Unread 01-29-2008, 06:47 AM   #2
shaker man
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Sounds like you are getting water in your oil. probably condensation or head gasket leak. do you drive it enough to get it good and warm?
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Unread 01-29-2008, 07:07 AM   #3
Bard
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I would make sure your PVC's are in good working order. If they get clogged it will not release and keep the moisture in the valve cover. Cheap enough to replace both of them with new ones.

This is a quick test to see if you have something else going on.
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Unread 01-29-2008, 08:52 AM   #4
HighCountry
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Also make sure your Thermostat is working, engine may not be getting as hot as it needs to be!

Bruce
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Unread 01-30-2008, 10:06 AM   #5
jayjay
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Thanks for the tips,

Could be the cold engine theory, during the summer I replaced the thurmostat with a 160. and it seemed to work fine. I also don't drive it very often (only start it once a week)

Another question: When it warms up it does not want to shut off. I have the HEI upgrade. any sugs?
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Unread 01-30-2008, 10:14 AM   #6
Mike Romain
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160 is way too cold. Things like the carb heater will stay on below 165. It also isn't good for internal heat.

This is the likely cause for the white stuff.

Not shutting down likely means you need a diode in the power line so the alternator can't power up the coil when the key is off. The alternator field or trigger comes off the coil power line. To test this just unplug the plastic plug on the coil when the key is off to see if that shuts it down.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 11:11 AM   #7
obscurotron
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My '85 258 does the exact same thing, even after a complete rebuilt (including replacing the HG, decking the head, etc.). I'm not sure where it's coming from, but my coolant level does drop (in the overflow bottle). Does yours?

So I'm not sure where my leak is. Could it be the water jacket in the intake manifold?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayjay
Recently I have noticed a build up of oil, resembling white lithium grease. It is mostly around the interior service at the Oil filler cap. I was runing Mobil 1 but have sinced changed it to Castrol (non-synthetic. Performed three oil changes, fixed a leaking PVC vacume hose, but still see a grease type sunstance congrigating at the filler area. I went as far as taking the cover off and found the grease like substance clinging to the interior surface of the cover.

Has any one else experianced this and if so, what did you do to elliminate it.

Thank you,
Jay
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Unread 01-30-2008, 11:42 AM   #8
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obscurotron
My '85 258 does the exact same thing, even after a complete rebuilt (including replacing the HG, decking the head, etc.). I'm not sure where it's coming from, but my coolant level does drop (in the overflow bottle). Does yours?

So I'm not sure where my leak is. Could it be the water jacket in the intake manifold?
There aren't any oil channels in the intake so the coolant can cross over there.

You should pull the plugs to see which one looks clean like new. If you find that, you have found a head gasket leak.

When mine leaked, my rad filled up with tiny bubbles, lots of them. You can open the rad cap on a cold off engine and start it up while carefully watching the coolant. Mine was obvious. Watch it, the coolant can come out in a hurry with a blown headgasket when the T-stat opens!

There are a couple more reasons for poor PCV performance which can cause the OP's symptoms if he isn't losing coolant. One is a failing charcoal canister purge valve which also will cause idle issues and lots of oil spits into the air filter and the other is that solenoid thing behind the carb. It never did work right so the fix was to put a T fitting in to tie in the PCV to the canister.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 01-30-2008, 05:46 PM   #9
HighCountry
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Upgrade to normal thermostat and take it for a nice long drive!

Bruce
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Unread 01-30-2008, 07:09 PM   #10
Rollbar
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I had a 170* then a 180* & ended up w/a 195* T-stat & the engine runs a lot better w/a 3 core rad.

I had one engine blow a hole in #3 cyl due to a bad factory head gasket. The metal rusted through & it started running rough & pop, hole in cyl. After that I had a '82 engine sitting & decided to look @ the factory head gasket, it to was rusted & almost all the way through. My opinion, anyone who has a factory head gasket on a 258 should change it out.
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Unread 01-31-2008, 06:00 AM   #11
jayjay
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I will change the t-stat and see if it helps. I have new a PVC and new lines (air compresser air hose works great). The orginal valve cover mounted air filter has long since been discarded and in place I have one on top of the carb. I still have the blowby hose at the rear but have placed a makeshift filter on it. The CJ runs great, idles fine and does not use any water. Compression test are right on the money and the plugs looks as they should.

I think the cold weather combined with the low t-stat may be the cuprit. I will change it and drive the p--- out of it and see if it helps.

Question 2: Because I installed a HEI dizy, there is no longer a coil. Would installing the resistor on the alternator still apply?

Thank You,
Jay
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Unread 01-31-2008, 09:14 AM   #12
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayjay
Question 2: Because I installed a HEI dizy, there is no longer a coil. Would installing the resistor on the alternator still apply?

Thank You,
Jay
If you used the existing 'coil' power wire to power up the HEI, it has an active tag to the alternator's field wiring. When you turn off the key, the main power shuts off, but the alternator is still energized which can backfeed power to the distributor.

The fix is in the HEI directions everywhere I looked and that is to put a diode in the alternator trigger line so electricity can only go 'to' the alternator, it can't then come 'from' it. A diode is a one way 'switch' sort of, it only lets DC power go in one direction.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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