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Oil Pan Replacement

852 views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  CSP 
#1 ·
Hi all. I have a 1982 Jeep CJ7 with the AMC 258ci 4.2l I6, and I am looking to replace the oil pan in the coming week. My oil pan has seen better days and is starting to rust very badly and I was given a new one when I bought the jeep so I figure what the heck. My question is what else should i replace/ look at while I'm already down there? I was planning on getting a rear main seal and replacing that while also checking the slack on my timing chain. Anything else that should be changed out to get the most out of it? I was thinking maybe a new screen for my oil pump but being a relatively novice mechanic I look to you all to gain more insight into this endeavor. Any info on helpful tips while doing all this, or suggestions would really go a long way for me, being as I am a college freshman working on my first Jeep. I've done work on it before and look forward to this next project. Thanks All -Chris
 
#4 ·
Use a one piece oil pan gasket...
Fel Pro makes a good one-piece gasket. It can be difficult to hold the gasket in place on the oil pan while you're trying to reinstall all of the bolts. I used high-strength sewing thread to tie the gasket to the pan (though the bolt holes) in several places. This lets you thread in several bolts to hold the pan in place, then you can cut out the theads, install the remaining oil pan bolts, and torque them to the correct spec.

To get the pan off, you may have to loosen one engine mount while you're under there, so it could be a good time to inspect the mount for damage.
 
#5 ·
Yeah, that's right, forgot about taking the passenger side motor mount out to gain access to change the oil pan and gasket. No real way around it.

One thing that will help is the use of a piece of square or rectangular steel bar that can support the weight of the engine on the passenger side once the passenger side motor mount is removed. I used and have a piece of steel that I bolt to the engine block threaded boss near the fuel pump and wedge the bottom part of it into the front Dana 30 axle pumpkin. It supports the engine and leaves a lot of room for the oil pan installation. Makes it relatively easy to do.

I may have a picture of the piece of steel installed.... have to look.
 
#6 ·
If you happen to have the bellhousing off, then you can also support the engine from the flywheel on the rear and the lower pulley on the front, using wooden blocks. But in your case you may have to use Keith's method.
 
#7 ·
Regarding the main seals, if it aint broke don't fix it. You're just as likely to have a newly installed seal leak as the one it has in it. There are many threads on this site stating "I replaced my main seal and it leaks worse than it did before".
 
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