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Unread 08-18-2009, 08:06 AM   #1
shok47
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1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 396
With oil pan off. What else should I check?

I have followed a tutorial about the oil pan and RMS changes and one mentioned to check the timing chain. What else should can I check? I heard the oil pump before? Other than that I dont know. The internals looks pretty good, only a light light brown tint on things. No gunk in the oil pan, just a few nibbles on the bottom near the drain (AMC 258 4.2). I stuck my finger under the oil pump and I found loose objects, some orange gasket or something, and a little gunk I believe. Ill get some pictures soon

As for the timing chain, I have done searches and found that its a good idea to change the camshaft and crank gears as well since you are there. Change it all??

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Unread 08-20-2009, 12:06 PM   #2
shok47
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bump I cant move the upper RMS, I have punched both sides, but the punch was only 5" so I didnt get much leverage with the hammer. Though It seems like it isnt even moving! I loosened all the bearing caps as well. Any hints??
Any information about the timing chain and gears?? replacing everything??

Last edited by shok47; 08-20-2009 at 12:16 PM..
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Unread 08-20-2009, 12:36 PM   #3
Skotter
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What kinds of problems are you having with the motor? Why is the pan off? I wouldn't start arbitrarilary just changing things out unless they NEED changing. You're not going to get the cam shaft out without removing the front of the Jeep, or remove the engine. Even then you'll have to remove your valve cover to get the lifters out. If the timing chain has more than 1/2 inch slack in it, then you might look at changing it out. And the RMS is only coming out if you remove the crank shaft. It has a metal wire in the core, and rubber flanges on each end, but it's in there tight. I'd be real leary of trying to drift it all the way around to spin it out. If you scratch up the shaft bearing surface, it's going to be a long day. It's also held in place by the yoke of the clutch spindle in the end of the crank shaft. So there's more than just bearing caps holding it in place.
I'm no expert, and there are alot more folks way more qualified than me to answer, but I just went thru changing out main bearings and removing the crank to have it checked out. I had to pull the motor.
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Unread 08-20-2009, 12:45 PM   #4
DT5150
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i also had trouble with the top part of the seal. a stick welder electrode worked perfect for me. long enough to get a decent whack on it, and small enough on the end to fit. and if it's square, it won't just punch a dimple in the end of the seal, it'll move it. keep at it, it'll come out.
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Unread 08-20-2009, 12:47 PM   #5
shok47
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I had a pinhole leak in my oil pan so I had to take it off. Im not positive the RMS is leaking but since Im under there mind as well change it to be safe. There is more than 1 leak around the engine. I notice oil on the driveshaft and right under the bellhousing. Im thinking about just replacing the bottom RMS and actually cleaning the motor and checking to see if the leak is coming from the RMS or head cover.
From my research, you dont have the remove the crank to do the RMS, just to punch it out a little then pull it out. What happens if you nick the crank a little?? I noticed a little scratch on there, i dont know if I did it or not :/
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Unread 08-20-2009, 01:02 PM   #6
DT5150
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if you're going through all this trouble, do both parts of the seal. it would suck to do half, button everything up and have it leak and have to do it all over again. they're not the most fun thing to replace. try an electrode and a plastic dead blow, it worked great for me. and mine was pretty stubborn too. i don't think you'll have any problems with the crank (and no you don't need to remove it to get the upper seal out).
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Unread 08-20-2009, 01:03 PM   #7
iagmc
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If you can feel the scratch there will be a problem, (eats seals)
how I read "shok47" org post, he was referring to the gears on the cam and crank, not the whole cam. (I did read it the same way you did the first time and reread it)

the RMS will be very hard to spin free, I have tried it on a engine stand and still not been able to spin it lose. Your

chain can look good and be very off. I take the chain flat on its side, try to raise it up on its side to make a rainbow. you will be able to see a visible )arc if it is bad.
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Unread 08-20-2009, 01:19 PM   #8
shok47
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I can feel the scratch. Im guessing I should get that light sanding cloth to bring it down. Yes, sorry about my posts, I do my research and after reading some things, I automatically think people know what I mean. I have to stop doing that

Should i be replacing the gears as well?? And this is my first time for all of this and I want to know what Im looking to take off. The grill, fan, radiator and such??
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Unread 08-20-2009, 01:37 PM   #9
DT5150
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you can leave the grill in, but the fan and rad need to come out. if you're doing the chain, might as well do the gears too. some are plastic and wear out pretty badly.

how much slop do you have in the chain? i think it's 1" or less slack is acceptable.
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Unread 09-09-2009, 03:21 PM   #10
shok47
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I have at LEAST 1 inch of slack. I took off the fan and radiator pump to get a better view. Where should I stick a block so i can turn the bolt for the harmonic balancer??
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