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Unread 08-31-2014, 06:03 PM   #1
delirious1
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Which oil

I did do a search. Read a few posts. My jeep was aquired two years ago. I have been in the process of making repairs. I've done one oil change. Not my primary vehicle. It is a weeken driver. I had no idea what was put in it before I got it. I went with castrol GTX 10w-30 last time. I live in Texas. high nineties in the summer. Winter is coming. Usually no colder than 20 degrees. If that.

I read where some are using 20w-50. Can you guys recommend an oil? Engine has about 5,0000 miles on it. It was fully rebuilt. Wasn't used much. Thanks

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Unread 08-31-2014, 06:29 PM   #2
firegod33
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I run full synthetic Valvoline 10w30. No problems in the Arizona heat. If you need 20w50 to maintain oil pressure, you have problems. Many will say to run 15w40 diesel oil. Never understood that one. Any good quality 10w30 or 10w40 should serve you well as long as a regular maintenance schedule is followed.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 06:35 PM   #3
delirious1
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Gauge,,,which I don't know as being accurate reads 40 at run, around 20 at idle. I purchased an oil pressure gauge to check at the engine block but I've had other priorities this weekend. It has the original OEM gauge. I replaced the sending unit last year
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Unread 08-31-2014, 07:02 PM   #4
WindKnot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firegod33 View Post
I run full synthetic Valvoline 10w30. No problems in the Arizona heat. If you need 20w50 to maintain oil pressure, you have problems. Many will say to run 15w40 diesel oil. Never understood that one. Any good quality 10w30 or 10w40 should serve you well as long as a regular maintenance schedule is followed.
It's very easy to understand. It's because diesel motor oils have a higher level of zinc (or rather, ZDDP) to protect our cam shafts. When catalytic converters came along for gas engines, the zinc content was reduced to protect them. Since your Jeep didn't come from the factory with one, a motor oil with a higher zinc content could be beneficial to you.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 07:57 PM   #5
firegod33
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http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...l-engine-oils-

http://zddplus.labecon.com/TechBrief...%20Engines.pdf
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Unread 08-31-2014, 09:16 PM   #6
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Use of this higher ZDDP content diesel oil gives
better EP wear protection than
SM oils for high-performance
gasoline engines with high flat-lifter foot pressures,
but small amounts of blow-by containing extra zinc and
phosphorus can be detrimental to the life of catalyti
c converters. On the other hand, many performance
enthusiasts feel they would rather pr
otect the cam and lifter, even if the co
st was a slightly reduced catalytic
converter life.

^^The above is the main reason......

Oil is a subject way beyond just the ingredients of the oil.......each engine calls for certain weights.....A prime example is my engine, the 225 v-6....PO was running 10 w 30 in it and it had a little engine noise, kind of like piston slap noise or a mild bearing knock.

After recieving a copy of the FSM I found my engine called for straight 50 weight oil where I live, a new filter and a oil change later no engine noises now that I had the correct oil weight the engine clearances were designed for.....luckily the 50 weight I found had plenty of the correct additives for my flat tappet cam, if not, I would have added a bottle of EOS etc to make up for it.

Also the linked articles posted above make a good point, which is film shear strength in gas VS diesel oils in higher rpm situations.

In the long run a cat replacement is much cheaper and easily done.......
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Unread 08-31-2014, 09:36 PM   #7
firegod33
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On the contrary. Reading the entire articles shows more pitfalls than benefits. Upon further research, the is also strong evidence that modern oils will do no harm whatsoever to older engines due to newer, more advanced formulations. Once again, the interweb distributes folk lore and misinformation. Same thing happened with the introduction of unleaded fuel. If you listened to all the tales, there wouldn't be a vintage engine with intact valve seats left in the world.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 09:49 PM   #8
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I'm a believer of using the diesel oils, namely rotella blends, modern oil have a lot or EPA management additives to work with emissions, and believe they are more worried about emissions than your longevity, after all, if they could put your stuff in the yard, the better the word would be..LOL
Use a 10-30 blend in CJ's, the orifices are smaller and need better flow with thinner oil.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 10:15 PM   #9
RenoF250
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Use what you like but there is never a good reason to use 10W30. 5W30 is superior in every case, it flows better when cold and is the same when hot. I really do not know why they even make 10W30 anymore but it is probably still the most popular grade.

If you are 20psi idle and 40 running with 10W30 that is fine. 15W40 would be fine as well.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 10:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firegod33 View Post
On the contrary. Reading the entire articles shows more pitfalls than benefits. Upon further research, the is also strong evidence that modern oils will do no harm whatsoever to older engines due to newer, more advanced formulations. Once again, the interweb distributes folk lore and misinformation. Same thing happened with the introduction of unleaded fuel. If you listened to all the tales, there wouldn't be a vintage engine with intact valve seats left in the world.

I am with you on the internet lore thing........

Just have to determine what matters overall in your situation with your engine.......lots of different engines and priorities and variables.


On the unleaded fuel .....all the problems talked about....same with oil....are true.

Lead lubricated the valve seats, among other things, and most engines without hardened seats will wear more than hardened seats and will burn valves.....just takes time.....like with the oils......build ups etc and cam wear do not happen overnight, unless breaking in a cam.

There are sooo many variables in a single engine line, much less all brands over the last 50 year span to outline which ones will take the wear the worst and which ones it will help and in what situations zinc and lead take priorities and in which they do not.

Most of the information in oil and unleaded gas debates is true.....but the statements are made as blanket statements and not backed up by which engine in which application and under what operating circumstances it happens in....when it applies and when it does not apply.

Such as some of the new ford engines call for 5w 20 oil........which is a certain engine under certain circumstances........not good for all engines.

A good example of synthetic oils is they are NOT recommended for flat tappet cam break in as they are too slick to allow enuff friction for proper operation and break in, resulting in severely worn parts. One might say it does not make sense that if it is too slick things will wear........logic says the slicker the better, less wear, butt not in this situation.

For proper flat tappet cam break in on a new engine which has tight tolerances, some friction is needed to allow the lifters to rotate in their newly honed bores and become work hardened and polished to mirror slick surface on the cam lobes for a long life.........in this situation under these circumstances ,zinc, a high pressure lubricant and a regular oil with higher drag co efficiencies is called for and needed.

While a blanket statement such as slicker oils prevent wear are true.......those statements need to be qualified by outlining under which set of variables are they applicable and desired and under which situations are they the lesser or greater of a compromise.

Because every time you dump a quart of oil in your ride it is a compromise as no one oil can cover all variables as outlined in the links you posted......one needs to determine all of their variables in their engine ,under which circumstances it will operated in and which is the best compromise for their situation.

Like I said there is a lot more to oils and oil choices than just the ingredients......

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Unread 09-01-2014, 05:04 AM   #11
j.creepers
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i would use a part sinthetic 10w40, an important thing to consider is that sinthetic and part sinth. oils have detergent additives in them so, if your engine has sludge in it it's probably a good idea to stay with conventional oil unless you will clean the engine, there's the chance that the oil pick up screen gets clogged.

About the ZDDP content and the flat tappet issue, in my engine i use a 5w50 Mobil 1+ a ZDDP/break in additive just for the peace of mind, there also are available off the shelf specific oil like Rotella, Valvoline VR-1 and many others that already have a fairly good amount of ZDDP to protect cam and lifters, i like the idea to use te oil i want and just add the additive in it.
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Unread 09-01-2014, 05:19 AM   #12
Matt1981CJ7
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The one an only time I stuck full synthetic in my 258, every gasket and seal started leaking inside of 2 weeks.

Valvoline VR1 is the only oil that goes in my 360.

And, contrary to previous posts, using 20W/50 to maintain adequate oil pressure in the summer is perfectly normal.

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Unread 09-01-2014, 05:41 AM   #13
jay-h
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Always base on the manufacturers recommended grades. They know something about your engine.

As a side point:

A loss of oil pressure is a sign that something is wrong. However it is NOT true that simply 'more pressure is better'

Proper lubrication relies on film strength and good flow. Putting in additives or using very heavy grades that increase pressure actually reduce flow.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 04:19 AM   #14
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The Rotella T6 is a great all around oil for the 258. Even the V8. Its on the lighter side of a 40wt though.

I have run it in my Saturn SL1 for almost 80,000
Miles now. It use to burn 3qt per OCI and cat is still good and clean at 215,000 miles.

I run it in everything but the 4.7 in the grand Cherokees and the Harley. (But use it in my ZX9r)
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Unread 09-02-2014, 04:41 AM   #15
grasmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delirious1 View Post
Can you guys recommend an oil? Engine has about 5,0000 miles on it. It was fully rebuilt.
is that 5k or 50k? amsoil for brands but if that is 5k wait until the engine has at least 6k. as far as weights, if the engine was rebuilt to factory specs., run the weight they recommend. if it was built with more or less tolerance you would want to choose an oil with more or less weight. more tolerance, heavier weight. less tolerance, lighter weight.
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