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Unread 04-30-2005, 07:59 AM   #1
tsjeepcj
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offset rear dana 44

i've found some 44's that i'm thinking about swapping into my cj7. i've got an 81 w/t176 and dana 300. only problem is that the rear 44 is offset about 5" to passenger side. they're from a j10 with a t18/dana 20 combo. anybody else used this rear or is it a no-go?? would a cv driveshaft solve any vibe or alignment problems?? any help or links would be appreciated.

thx

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Unread 04-30-2005, 09:27 AM   #2
John N
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Just how wide do you want it? The J-10 rears are about 61" or more and 6 lug pattern. The Dana 44 out of a '74 to '80 Scout II is a good choice. Same lug pattern, 58" and bigger brakes.
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Unread 04-30-2005, 09:35 AM   #3
tsjeepcj
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yeah, i've found some scout 44's also, but the j10's are 4.09's, complete, and closer than the scout's. i'm ok with the j10 width. i've got a feeling the offset rear isn't gonna work, but you never know. i want to run 35's on the trail, so eventually i'd regear, but with 4.09's i could get by for a while w/o having to go through the cost of the regear right now.
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Unread 04-30-2005, 09:47 AM   #4
BESRK
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You might wanna contact one of the driveshaft manufacturers about a Double CV shaft. It'll be pretty pricey but since it is "self-cancelling" at both ends, it would work out well with a centered TC and offset axle...
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Unread 05-01-2005, 04:33 PM   #5
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Whoa............you'll be seriously unhappy if you try to run an offset rearend with a straight through transfercase. You'll never get rid of the driveline vibrations. The scout axles are a reasonable swap, but you need to cut and turn the front end to correct the severe lack of castor. Scout uses zero castor and doesn't work well on a CJ. Also, the steering knuckles/arms need to be changed to shorter ones or you'll not get full steering either direction. Your model 30 outer stuff will work on the scout 44's.
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Unread 05-01-2005, 06:18 PM   #6
tsjeepcj
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yeah, i've pretty much decided to go against the offset, but have found a set of scout axle's that i might get. when you say the axles need to be cut and turned, are you talking about re-setting the pinion angle?? i know there are a bunch of write ups about the scout swap but i haven't really looked into it yet. i hadn't planned on doing axles until later this summer.

thx for the info,

cya
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Unread 05-01-2005, 06:29 PM   #7
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Yes it does actually reset the pinion angle. But the real intention is to rotate the steering knuckles backward to increase the caster and in the process allow you to adjust the optimum pinion angle for your front drive shaft... If you were to try a run the stock scout caster angles, your jeep would be VERY road wild. Caster is what makes a vehicle go down the road straight and helps to prevent the famed "Death Wobble". Caster should be between 3-7 degrees.
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1956 Willys Flatfender....SOA, Buick V8, Turbo 350, locked both ends, wheelbase lengthened from 80" to 86", 35" TSL's on 15X12 Wheels...

1989 MJ.........4.0 with auto...2" BB and Rubicon tire PKG.

& a shiny new 2005 RED Rubicon Unlimited...RE3.5 Superflex and 33X12.50-15 MTR's and 15X10's. And a sad 10-13 MPG.......

4 WHEELING CAN BE AN ART WHEN APPLIED PROPERLY AND CARNAGE IS NOT A NECESSITY.......
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Unread 05-01-2005, 06:55 PM   #8
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ok, but the knuckles wouldn't have to be cut off and moved in addition to the perches, right?? i figured i'd have to outboard the springs and reweld the perches, but not change the knuckles too....
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Unread 05-01-2005, 08:40 PM   #9
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Yes, the weld around the tube has to be cut, and the knuckles (at the outside of the tubes) have to be turned. This is in addition to moving the spring pads. If you try to adjust the caster by just the spring pads, the pinion angle will be down towards the ground and not up and towards the transfercase. Nothing good comes easy.
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1956 Willys Flatfender....SOA, Buick V8, Turbo 350, locked both ends, wheelbase lengthened from 80" to 86", 35" TSL's on 15X12 Wheels...

1989 MJ.........4.0 with auto...2" BB and Rubicon tire PKG.

& a shiny new 2005 RED Rubicon Unlimited...RE3.5 Superflex and 33X12.50-15 MTR's and 15X10's. And a sad 10-13 MPG.......

4 WHEELING CAN BE AN ART WHEN APPLIED PROPERLY AND CARNAGE IS NOT A NECESSITY.......
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Unread 05-02-2005, 10:53 AM   #10
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If you're not opposed to some width, then you might consider a Wagoneer front Dana 44 and a rear Scout Dana 44. Only have to outboard the front spring hangers for the Waggie front and move the spring perches on the Scout rear. That would give you a front axle about 60" wide and a rear axle about 58" wide. The front Waggie axle comes with a much better caster and pinion angle relationship than the Scout stuff. Also, the Waggie front has shorter steering arms and possibly flat top knuckles whereas the Scout has those grotesquely long steering arms that dramatically reduce steering radius when coupled with a stock length CJ pitman arm. If you run the Waggie axle SUA, you can even use the stock Waggie steering linkage by just shortening/rethreading the Waggie drag link a few inches. Or, if you decide to mount them SOA, you can drill/tap the flat top Waggie knuckles for high steer arms and mount all your steering stuff above the springs. If you want to keep the 5 on 5.5" lug pattern (the Scout rear will already have it), you can use the earlier "small" Waggie spindles, 78 Ford F150 rotors/hubs, Waggie caliper brackets and either Waggie/Chevy calipers (they're the same). By running this Waggie/Scout combo you will have the tires stick out about 2"-3" more per side than you would with a Widetrac setup. I did this swap on a buddy's CJ7 last year. Took me about 20 hours total and turned out real nice. He runs BDS 4" springs and a 1" body lift and clears 36" TSLs with a little trimming... and he wheels it hard.
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