Alright guys, unfortuneately the organization I was scuba diving with is having financial troubles and is looking to sell the dive truck. It is a '79 Frito Lay delivery truck with the 3.9 4BT. I can tell you that the engine ran fine but needs a new oil cooler. If you are interested in this van or any slightly used scuba equipment check out this page, Available Equipment - S.T.A.R.S. International.
Sorry if you've already covered this in the thread but I've looked through a few times and can't find anything: Axles. I know it says you're running a 14 bolt in back and a Dana 44 in the front but I thought remember seeing somewhere at some time you had a chromoly-shafted AMC 20 in the back or was that someone else's rig? I'd like to keep the 20 for a few reasons:
1. Cost (When did Dana 60's start costing more than the vehicle?)
2. Parts Sentimentalism (It was my good buddy's rig before me, wanna keep it as original as possible, when possible.)
3. Cost (Did I mention cost?)
To add to the complication I plan to install an auxiliary fuel cell behind the passenger seat dedicated to veg oil (I have some friends finding, purifying and supplying it) which I know would add significant weight to the back. I'm concerned that even if I strengthen the internals enough to handle the torque, I run the risk of bending the tubes with the increased weight on the tubes. Your 2 cents?
P.S. The plan calls for running 35's, 60% road, 40% Colorado Trails, 0% risk of rolling, 0% rockcrawling, 100% highway to Moab, perch in my camping chair at Potato Salad Hill with my Coors Light and watch rich people topple their expensive rigs.
Last edited by StringFellow; 12-29-2010 at 11:05 PM..
I don't remember covering this in much detail in previous posts:
a. I did have an AMC 20 rear axle with 4:10 gears, Powertrax locker, custom one-piece Moser Engineering 6 lug axles, and 11inch drum brakes. It was a very custom axle.
b. I wrote in to Peterson's "Nuts, I'm confused" and was featured in the October 2010 issue. I questioned them what axle I should build/have-built for my Jeep. I wasn't too impressed with the answer. They pretty much said that I should buy a Dynatrac 60 rear axle. It made me wonder if they read my question closely (you'll have to look it up). Their response sounded to me like they have received many many free axles from Dynatrac and needed to throw some publicity their way. That's just my opinion.
c. I now have a 14 bolt cut down to CJ wide-track, 4:10 gears, ARB air locker, disc brakes, and 8-lugs (naturally).
d. I've also converted my front Dana 44 to 8 lug using most all the parts from a 1-ton Chevy front dana 44 (knuckle; spindles; hubs; etc).
. . . that should clarify your first paragraph of inquiry.
Now, in response to your statements:
1. I don't know when Dana 60's (Dynatrac Pro-Rock) began to cost more than the purchase price of my Jeep, but they do!
2. You can trust me on this: I too have sentimental reasons for doing many of the things I do with my Jeep. But you are considering a 4BT? How original is that?
3. Cost is a huge consideration in axle upgrade and/or swap!
4. My 2 cents: I personally don't think an extra fuel cell will add too much stress to your axle tubes; however, 2 - 200lb passengers on a rear seat with additional gear in the back and a 35in tire on a huge rear bumper may add significant stress to the axle tubes.
My additional 2 cents: don't waste your time with veg oil.
5. I think your plan (as you write it) will offer considerably less stress to your AMC 20 than I have subjected to mine. One piece axles should add to your confidence in keeping the 20. Also, I'd love to drive my 4BT CJ out to Moab and sit in a chair with a cold beverage and visit while watching others thrash on Potato Salad Hill.
Possibly my final word on the dauntless 20:
I liked my AMC 20 because nobody else did. Everybody always commented, "Oh those AMC 20's are such junk, blah, blah, it'll just break, blah, blah." I would just nod and smile. Truth is: it was nearly 30 years old and never failed me, ever! It was built well, but was showing it's age with leaky axle seals and worn brakes. It was not the original axle to my Jeep. My '79 was originally equipped with narrow-track axles; therefore, again, sentiments go out the window. My number one reason for changing to the 14 bolt was reliability: I want to start venturing out farther from eastern PA. I don't want to have an inevitable rear axle failure and be stranded with no immediate access to parts to repair the very custom AMC 20. The 14 bolt on the other hand is a super-strong 1-ton full floating axle and even with my custom work: parts are readily available and it's a full floater! I'd have to mess it up bad to not be able to limp home in front wheel drive.
Sold the BMW to afford Jeep parts.
Im new to the jeep forum world. I was happy too see so many threads on this topic. I have recently picked up a cj7 with a seized 304. i bought a 4bt with a 2wd sm465 and a np 205 and adapter. that is all i know. this thread has the closest info to what i am trying to accomplish. my question is what do you do to power the hydro boost and the steering? i also was wondering how to marry the 2wd sm465 and np 205? i love what you have done to your jeep and em excited to ride in mine.
Last edited by Dash4Crash; 02-02-2011 at 09:33 AM..
I would get a 4wd version of the SM465 if I were you. It should bolt up directly to the np205 (or better yet...adapt it to a D20/D300 to lose some weight.
NV4500 isnt necessary unless you plan to gear it for crawling and want to still have OD for the highway.
1985 CJ7 Project Phase One : 5.3L Vortec/4L60E, Moser axles for AMC20, Twin Stick'd Dana300 - Completed Phase Two: Bedliner, Rollcage, Seats, BESRK Rear Bumper w/ tire swing, Soft Top, and a few other goodies - Mostly Complete Phase Three: Waggy 44 front, Scout D44 Rear, 4.56's, ARB's (F/R) SOA with YJ Springs, 35x12.50x15 BFG MT - Not Even Close to beginning
Also a mostly rust-free 1970 Scout 800A That I'll get to start working on someday...
Chrome won't get you home...BUT Rattle Can Black may just get you back"
I understand your views on Cummins. I was looking into doing a diesel swap for my next Jeep. I'm glad I saw this posted, it may change my mind on engines to use. I was previously looking at getting a 5 cylinder 2.7 Mercedes out of a Dodge Sprinter cargo van. Just wondering your thoughts on it. The write up I read on the 2.7 said
All are powered by a five-cylinder 2.7-liter Mercedes turbo-diesel that is a champ. It's quick to start, doesn't stink, and idles relatively smoothly and quietly. After a couple hundred miles, you forget it's a diesel. It produces 154 horsepower at 3800 rpm and 243 pound-feet of torque between 1600 rpm and 2400 rpm.
how do i power both the hydro boost and the steering with the same pump? i got the 2wd sm465 with the 4bt already mated. the guy had a 205 with adapter from another truck. i really would rather have nv4500. but it costs more money so i just em going with what i have for now.
you should have three ports on your pump and three on the hydro. high pressure line from the pump goes into one side of the hydro and comes out on the other side and runs to the steering box and out of the box back to the pump. the third line on the pump (low pressure) runs to the low pressure port of the hydro. its really pretty simple to hook up