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Halloween Savings to die for!Offset Tie Rod Kit From RuffStuff!Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!

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Unread 09-25-2007, 07:26 PM   #1
imafishingfred
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Official AMC V8 swap thread/Need more

I pulled 304 and 3sp trans from 74 CJ5. I put them in a 84 CJ7 after removing the AMC 150 and 5sp. I used the frame and block mounts from the CJ5 and installed everything in the 84 CJ7. The Official AMC V8 swap thread told me all about the mounts. It worked out great. I also read that my ignition setup is not compatable. I plan to use the HEI. Does anyone know where I can find wiring diagrams for the HEI and Nutter Bypass? I plan to remove the computer and all the other unnesessary wiring from the engine compartment but want to keep intact all the nesessary wiring for gauges. Also the 84 CJ7 has a 4" lift (springs under axle) and I need any info on driveshaft replacements. I have the shafts from both the 74 CJ5 and 84 CJ7. I believe the shafts from the 84 had been modified. Both CJ's have the original axles under them. I may swap them out later. I seem to remember reading here that my stock 84 axles may not hold up well with the 304. Also read the why my steering wanders writeup. That comes after I get it running. Any help is appreciated.

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Unread 09-25-2007, 09:21 PM   #2
bdmonist
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Axles will be OK, worry about that later. Google Nutter bypass and you will get 1000's of results. Search on here as well! Lot's of info.
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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Unread 09-25-2007, 11:33 PM   #3
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The HEI is a single wire from the ignition side of the key. You can purchase a continuous duty relay and use it to power the dist. Power from the battery, power to the dist, power from the ignition side of the key to the I terminal of the relay. While you are waiting, you can run your old points dist. Neither the HEI or the stock 304 carb require the electronic ignition module, so the Nutter bypass doesn't come into play. you will want to get a wiring diagram of the 84 so you can decide which wires you want to pull.
If you are going to keep the stock axles, you will want to go to one piece in the rear.
Not sure about your driveline question. If they are the wrong length, take them to a driveline shop and have them re-tubed.
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Unread 09-26-2007, 04:55 AM   #4
imafishingfred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000
Not sure about your driveline question. If they are the wrong length, take them to a driveline shop and have them re-tubed.
Thanks for the info on the dist. and wiring issues. Is there a procedure for determining the length of the drive shafts or how much travel they should have?
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Unread 09-26-2007, 05:00 AM   #5
bdmonist
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Stock shafts have 3 inches of travel. So once your all set, take some measurements to see the length you need, then measure your shaft at mid travel. That gives you 1 1/2 inch travel in each direction. I would say you need at least one inch of travel. It's failry cheap to have them cut down or extended. I paid $55 to have mine cut down and a buddy paid $86 to have his extended.
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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Unread 09-26-2007, 02:28 PM   #6
imafishingfred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000
The HEI is a single wire from the ignition side of the key. You can purchase a continuous duty relay and use it to power the dist. Power from the battery, power to the dist, power from the ignition side of the key to the I terminal of the relay. While you are waiting, you can run your old points dist. Neither the HEI or the stock 304 carb require the electronic ignition module, so the Nutter bypass doesn't come into play. you will want to get a wiring diagram of the 84 so you can decide which wires you want to pull.
If you are going to keep the stock axles, you will want to go to one piece in the rear.
Not sure about your driveline question. If they are the wrong length, take them to a driveline shop and have them re-tubed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000
While you are waiting, you can run your old points dist.
Are you saying I still need the continuous duty relay to run my old points dist? If so, do I wire as mentioned? Is this a continuous duty starter solinoid or a relay that is wired into the harness?

Last edited by imafishingfred; 09-28-2007 at 03:28 AM..
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Unread 09-28-2007, 02:15 PM   #7
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Does anyone know the answer to the question I posted on jeepdaddy2000's comments?
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Unread 09-28-2007, 04:11 PM   #8
jeepdaddy2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imafishingfred
Are you saying I still need the continuous duty relay to run my old points dist? If so, do I wire as mentioned? Is this a continuous duty starter solinoid or a relay that is wired into the harness?
No, the relay is for the HEI. In order to squeeze everything out of it, it will require a heavier gauge wire than your stock loom provides(you can still use the existing wire without harm, you just won't get quite as much secondary voltage). By using the continuous duty relay, you can wire it directly from the battery and use your existing ignition wire to activate the relay instead of trying to re-run the existing wire. In order to run your existing points, you will want to go to your FLAPS and purchase a resistor. Any late 60's early 70's Chevy application will do(usually about 5 bucks). Take your existing ignition wire and run it through the resistor to the positive side of the coil.
A starter solenoid is a high amp, short duration relay. While it can work, it's life expediency is relatively short compared to a low amp long duration continuous duty relay. These are usually available on the fog light rack of your local Wal-Mart.
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Unread 10-21-2007, 06:51 AM   #9
imafishingfred
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imafishingfred
I pulled 304 and 3sp trans from 74 CJ5. I put them in a 84 CJ7 after removing the AMC 150 and 5sp. I used the frame and block mounts from the CJ5 and installed everything in the 84 CJ7. The Official AMC V8 swap thread told me all about the mounts. It worked out great. Also the 84 CJ7 has a 4" lift (springs under axle) and I need any info on driveshaft replacements. I have the shafts from both the 74 CJ5 and 84 CJ7. Any help is appreciated.
Does any one know if I can find drive shafts from a salvage yard that will work without modifying and if so from what model/year?
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Unread 10-21-2007, 11:14 AM   #10
bdmonist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imafishingfred
Does any one know if I can find drive shafts from a salvage yard that will work without modifying and if so from what model/year?
Why not just cut down or extend the axles you already have?
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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Unread 10-21-2007, 03:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdmonist
Why not just cut down or extend the axles you already have?
I'm having trouble finding someone in my area that can cut/extend and REBALANCE the rear shaft. I could take them to work and do it myself, but I have no way to REBALANCE the rear shaft.
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Unread 10-21-2007, 05:43 PM   #12
bdmonist
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Any driveline or machine shop will be able to handle that for you. Just look around, there's bound to be several in your area.
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1984 CJ 7, SBC 350TBI, 700R4, D 300, AMC 20, D30, 35" Mickeys, 3.54 Gears, 4" susp. Lift, 2" body lift.

AMC 20 Write Up
In Progress - 4.56 gears, Aussie Rear Locker, Moser 1 Piece Axles
Coming Soon - CV Shafts, Welded Tubes, trusses
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