I have a 84 CJ7. I bought it with a attempt to swap in a 360. The engine was barely bolted down but everythng was there. To start off the jeep in the front end, AMC 360 engine , M.O.R.E. bomb proof engine mounts, "CJ bell housing", Centerforce dual friction clutch, stock 4 speed 176 or 4 ( not sure), stock dana 300, stock axles/ drive shafts.
My problem is the engine is mounted and when I get the bell housing on, trans and transfer case and go to put the skid plate on and connect the drive shafts, The lower skid plate mounts up about 2 1/2 - 3 inches to far toward the rear to even come close to bolt up, and the drive shafts are too long to bolt up in the rear and too short t bolt up in the front. MY first thoughts were that the bell housing must be the wrong one and had been left on from the wagoneer the 360 came out of. I bought another bell housing off ebay for a cj7 and the guy said its te correct one for the amc V8 to fit in a cj7 and they were exactly the same. So at this point, I'm not sure what it is? Does anyone have any ideas ? anyone else ran into this problem. I know that answer is going to be a stupid one but at this point just need some direction, Anyone have a measurement on how deep their amc 304 cj bell housing is ?
sounds like either your engine is too far back, or they swapped tranys. You could of originally had a 4 banger, which would mean the engine is now farther back in the bay making the shafts as you say, or he could of swapped trannys to a longer one.
80 CJ5 in the process of a frame up resto
The little stuff will kill me.
On the back burner for college.
I am dropping in a 360 into a 84' cj7 that had the 4 banger also...is the stock location of the mounts okay for the 360 and a tf999? or should it be moved forward a bit? I really would like to use the stock holes in the frame from the original mount location.
It only hurts while you're breathing..
I am doing a 360 for a 304 swap in my 77 CJ5. One of the questions I have is about my tranny, its a T-18 4speed man. Since I am going to have the engine out, should I go ahead and do the tranny too? The way I figure it, now is the time to throw a new tranny in and make sure that is up to snuff too. I am buying a "turn-key" HO 360 so I can save some time with not having to do a re-build. If I do the tranny too then I could conceiveably install the two components at the same time and ensure the drive train is solid. should I also do the clutch and how difficult is the clutch to do with all the other stuff I am planning. The engine swap should be pretty straightforward, and the tranny as well since it will accept the 360 like it did the 304. Anyone see any pitfalls?
I'd have to agree with supraman that it was probably an original 4 cylinder. I'd give you the measurements on where my frame mounts are, but my Jeep's about 100 miles away right now. If someone does have these measurements you could figure out if that's the problem. Also, i don't know if the v8s and I6s are supposed to use the same holes in the frame, but that's what i did and it fit fine.
Could someone talk more about "Flexplates" and getting the flywheel balanced. What is the flexplate? and how does one balance a flywheel, why is that necessary if I am swapping a 360 for a 304, and where are the flexplate and flywheel? Excuse my ignorance.
The flexplate and flywheel are essentially the same thing. It bolts to the back of the crankshaft. It looks like a big gear on the back of the motor. The starter turns the flywheel/flexplate to turn the motor. Typically, it's referred to as a flexplate on an automatic tranny, and a flywheel on a manual. the flexplates are usually thinner than the flywheels.
The flywheel/flexplate helps balance the rotating assembly, and the 360s need the weight distributed differently than the 304 to balance it. This is why you can't use 304 flywheel. As far as balancing one, I don't know of any way to do it. I think you have to buy a flywheel for the 360.
Cool, thanks. What specifically is the connection between the engine and tranny on a manual trans (mine is the T18). How is power delivered from the crankshaft to the transmission (then down the driveshaft)?
clutch pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel with clutch disc sandwiched in between. The disc is splined and turns the trans input shaft (which is supported by the pilot bushing inside the crank). So when the throwout (release) releases the clutch fingers the pressure plate/flywheel assembly turns the disc, which turns the tranny input shaft. Clear as mud?
Actually yes it is clear. So when I pull the motor, I need to pull it forward enough to get the pilot bushing off the trans input shaft. Once the motor is free of the shaft it can come straight up out of the engine bay (providing there is nothing else in the way). Right?
if you're separating motor from bellhousing (not pulling as a unit) the clutch pressure plate will have to clear the shaft last (about 6" aft of pilot bushing). you will also need to remove the clutch fork to allow the throwout to come forward.