Official AMC V8 swap thread - Page 5 - JeepForum.com

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post #61 of 494 Old 08-22-2007, 07:28 PM
supraman1990
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Does anyone know whats involved in moving the fuel lines? Do I really have the room on the driver frame rail to put the fuel line? Also, are the return lines exactly the same?


80 CJ5 in the process of a frame up resto
96% complete.
The little stuff will kill me.
On the back burner for college.
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post #62 of 494 Old 08-25-2007, 09:36 PM
plain76cj5
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The return line for the 258 is already on the driver's side. You just need to use a rubber fuel line to connect the return fitting on the fuel filter to the hard line already running on the frame rail. You may have to bend the hard line a little to clear the exhaust.

On the two V8 conversions that I have done, I used a piece of steel line and routed it from the existing 258 line on the frame rail around the front, under the radiator and back up by the power steering lines. Then used a short piece of rubber fuel line to go to the fuel pump. You could also replace the supply line from the fuel tank with a V8 driver's side line. That would be more work, but a cleaner install.

Jeep #1 = 76 CJ5, 304, T18, Twinstick Dana 20, Lock-Right in front, Yukon HD front axles, One piece axles - Detroit Locker in rear, 2.5" Rancho Springs, 1" lift shackles, 32x11.5 Super Swamper TSL/SX, Warn XD9000i, York OBA.
Jeep #2 = 80 CJ7, 401, T18, D300, 3" Black Diamond Lift, TrXus M/T 33x12.5, Yukon 1 piece axles, Auburn posi in rear, Detroit TrueTrac in front, Ramsey 8000.
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post #63 of 494 Old 08-26-2007, 08:58 AM
spk454
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I just bought an 83 Scrambler that someone else changed the 258 to a 304. They just draped a rubber fuel line across the front (not safe, i know). I'm going to run the hard line around the front under the radiator as suggested. My question is, What is the function of the return line? Is it needed? In my friends cars with v8's (chevy's) there is only a single supply line to a mechanical pump, then on to the carb. Can I eliminate the return? Can I use the return line as my supply? Is this an AMC thing? Lastly, I can get a 360 long block with a 3yr50K warranty for about 500$ more than a 304 (motor 200 more, 300 for no core). Is it worth the extra dough for the 360 (i think weight wise they're the same). My current 304 is veeerrryyyy TIRED!

Thanks in advance for any info!
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post #64 of 494 Old 08-31-2007, 09:39 PM
mike4089
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well i did this swap over the winter and this is the first big big project i have ever done...went fairly smooth thanks to some help from some friends...here are some pic







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post #65 of 494 Old 09-02-2007, 10:05 AM
Mike78cj7
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How hard is it to run in-frame exhaust? It looks like fenderwell exhausts are easier to run but I've never really liked the way it looks plus it seems like it could get easily damaged on the trails. I know they sell in-frame headers but do they sell kits to get the exhaust all the way to the back?
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post #66 of 494 Old 09-02-2007, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
BLS33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike78cj7
How hard is it to run in-frame exhaust? It looks like fenderwell exhausts are easier to run but I've never really liked the way it looks plus it seems like it could get easily damaged on the trails. I know they sell in-frame headers but do they sell kits to get the exhaust all the way to the back?

Auto or manual tranny?
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post #67 of 494 Old 09-02-2007, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLS33
Auto or manual tranny?
Maunal T-18A
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post #68 of 494 Old 09-02-2007, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike78cj7
Maunal T-18A

You should have no problem running in frame headers, it is way harder with an auto because of the linkage. I would go with in frame headers and have an exhaust shop do custom exhaust for the rest which will be pretty cheap.
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post #69 of 494 Old 09-03-2007, 02:56 PM
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engine mount to old cj?

I decided to drop the 360 in my'75 cj5 project and to my surprise it doesn't fit! The whole setup seems like I'm about 2" too wide. The engine mounts and frame mounts came off AMC V8's so I thought I was good to go. Is my problem that my frame is pre-1976? Are the frame rails in the engine area closer together on the older cj's? I thought I measured and they were the same but guess I could be wrong. Any help???

'75 CJ5 w/304/T150/D20/D44's/3.07/33" Thornbirds/Glass Body...
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post #70 of 494 Old 09-03-2007, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
BLS33
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You need the V8 mounts meant for a CJ. If you are using the mounts from say a Cherokee or whatever the engine came out of they won't work.
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post #71 of 494 Old 09-03-2007, 03:18 PM
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Well I got mounts from a J10 the 360 camer out of and I got mounts from a '79 CJ7 that a304 came out of. They are a different shape but both look like they space the rubber part the same distance away from the engine. I don't recall which mounts came from which anymore. Will the mounts used in a '79 work for a '75?

'75 CJ5 w/304/T150/D20/D44's/3.07/33" Thornbirds/Glass Body...
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post #72 of 494 Old 09-03-2007, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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On the passenger side you will need you will need the mount that connects to the frame and the mount that connects to the block from the CJ that had the 304, on the drivers side you can re-use the mount that connects to the frame that was used with the original engine and then you need to use the one that connects to the block from the CJ with the 304. The mounts from a 79 should work with a 75.
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post #73 of 494 Old 09-03-2007, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz401
frame mount AMC I-6 to V-8
I-6 3 slots / V-8 2 slots





CJ - V-8 block mount

These pictures should help give you an idea.
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post #74 of 494 Old 09-03-2007, 03:55 PM
CJfreak
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Ok, here's what I have. I only have two of the brackets on the floor. Do I need 4? All I ended up with when I pulled the 304 from the CJ7.





c

Thanks

'75 CJ5 w/304/T150/D20/D44's/3.07/33" Thornbirds/Glass Body...
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post #75 of 494 Old 09-03-2007, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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The mounts you have connected to the block are wrong, those are FSJ block mounts. The 2 on the floor are the ones you need to use.
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