Official 4.0 swap thread - Page 9 - JeepForum.com

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post #121 of 429 Old 06-13-2008, 05:34 PM
Last Boyscout
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1979 CJ7 
 
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a double cardon (cv) drive shaft is a custom shaft. very custom. search Tom Woods BAMF Double Cardon drive shaft. don't forget to have your $700 in hand.

the xj front shaft is a cardon (cv) shaft. the cardon joint in it allows for extreme angles with less stress on the ujoints. lots of people use the xj front shaft shortened for a cj rear shaft. you'll also need a cv yoke for your d300.

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post #122 of 429 Old 06-13-2008, 05:53 PM
ndigilio3
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it depends on what you plan on doing, any sort of rockcrawling or anything with articulation you want to spend the money on a double cv driveshaft. if this is more of a DD then the xj driveshaft will be ok
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post #123 of 429 Old 06-23-2008, 12:34 PM
david222
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Why? not salvage

Ok here goes i am new to jeeps. There is a 79 cj5 sitting in my back yard in pieces. everyone is talking about 4.0L & 4.2L and mpi and this and that???
Why wouldn't you just go to the salvage yard pick out a 4.0L engine and all of the necessary Fuel injection stuff? I have the original inline six but I want to go FI. I have a 4.0L ford but cannot find adapters.
Can anyone suggest to me the best engine/ transmission combo in a six cyl. That fits in the cj5. The transmission that is currently in the jeep is a 3 speed?
Thanks
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post #124 of 429 Old 06-23-2008, 01:49 PM
CJHVN
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David, being new to Jeeps will give you a break....

The 4.0L engine people are "talking about" IS fuel injected and people DO go to the junkyard and pick up the complete engine to swap out their old tired carb engine.

The 4.2 is not fuel injected, however you can also swap the head and intake from a 4.0L WITH fuel injection onto the 4.2 block to add fuel injection to an old tired carb engine.

A little search goes a long way. Welcome to Jeeps!

85 CJ-7, 4.0L, twin stick/clocked flat Dana 300, SOA, 36" TSL's, 30/44 locked, Warn X8000i

92 XJ, 4.0L, AW4, Dropped NP231, 30/8.25, 4" DPG Hybrid lift, 33" MT/R's, JKS trackbar, JKS discos, OME Nitro Shocks, stinger bumper, Warn X8000i, etc. (work in progress)
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post #125 of 429 Old 06-24-2008, 08:17 AM
Last Boyscout
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welcome to the addiction David!

on the engine and tranny it depends on what you want to do with it. sense this is a thread on the 4.0 swap we'll say that you're going with the 4.0 so we're not hijacking this thread. remember when you get your 4.0 get everything. all engine accessories and wiring. i would recommend buying a whole donor. a wrecked xj or just an old tired one someone is selling cheap. what did you have in mind, a complete engine rebuild?

the wheel base length of a cj5 limits you on which tranny you can use. you want something short. what are you building? a dd or trail only jeep or both? for tranny info go to Novak site and read through their knowledge base. it'll help you figure out what you can use. remember they lean to wards strength for off road use. if it's a dd stock is all you need.

do some searches on 4.0 swaps there are some good write ups out there that will give you the basics and better understanding of why it's a better choice. if you stay with the 4.2 ditch the Carter carb. it's a piece of s***.
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post #126 of 429 Old 06-24-2008, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
supraman1990
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David, contrary to popular belief, if you get the short D300 from 1980, you can marry an AX15 to your 4.0 in your 5. I did it, took a custom DS, but it works like a charm, and I haven't experienced any binding in the driving I have done thus far.

80 CJ5 in the process of a frame up resto
96% complete.
The little stuff will kill me.
On the back burner for college.
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post #127 of 429 Old 06-25-2008, 12:07 PM
Rezneck
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I found some helpful wiring schematics. The schematic for my 1994 XJ isn't listed but the 92-93 XJ schematic seems to be close.


http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

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48 CJ-2A, Bone stock except it has Allstate locking hubs.
86 CJ-7, 4.0 HO, AX-15, D-30, AMC-20
84 CJ-7, YJ tub and fenders, 258 ci, T-176, D-30, D-44 Trutracs F/R, 4.27s, 33s
77-90ish Wagoneer/TJ/CJ Yard Sale Special, 360AMC, TH400, Quadratrac, D-44s F/R, 3.07s, 34" LTBs.
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post #128 of 429 Old 06-27-2008, 01:30 PM
Rezneck
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Do I need to keep the 4.0 coolant temp' sensor or can I cut it out and use the CJ sensor instead?

Throw the bums out!


48 CJ-2A, Bone stock except it has Allstate locking hubs.
86 CJ-7, 4.0 HO, AX-15, D-30, AMC-20
84 CJ-7, YJ tub and fenders, 258 ci, T-176, D-30, D-44 Trutracs F/R, 4.27s, 33s
77-90ish Wagoneer/TJ/CJ Yard Sale Special, 360AMC, TH400, Quadratrac, D-44s F/R, 3.07s, 34" LTBs.
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post #129 of 429 Old 06-27-2008, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
supraman1990
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Which sensor? You use the sensor thats on the rear of the head for the coolant temp gauge, take the 4.0 one out and put your 4.2 one right in. The coolant sensor on the water neck is for the ECU.

80 CJ5 in the process of a frame up resto
96% complete.
The little stuff will kill me.
On the back burner for college.
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post #130 of 429 Old 06-30-2008, 12:35 PM
93CJ7
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Need Help ASAP

I have had my 4.0 motor in my jeep for a little over a year now and it started to leave me stranded. It will not start; plenty of spark, the fuel pressure reaches 44+, but the injectors will not pulsate. I checked at the injector plug and at the ecu and nothing. The signal goes from a ground at rest to 12 volts while cranking. I do not have any codes at the computer I have checked. If I spray starter fluid into the throttle body it will start up and then they start to pulsate. What can this be?????????????? If anyone knows anything please call me at 803-524-8782 because it is my daily driver and only means of transportation. Any help is very appreciated. If you cant call please just email me at jhaik@comporium.net. Thanks again, James
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post #131 of 429 Old 07-09-2008, 06:17 PM
bohmerjr
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I may have missed this somewhere in the previous 8 pages, but when you refer to FI, are you talking throttle-body or MPI? I thought I saw somewhere the the Jeep 4.0 was MPI since 1987, but I called a guy on CL that was selling a '95 4.0 and he said it was TBI. I have a V8 but after it is gone, the I6 might be it's successor.
thanks in advance

'74 CJ5 , 304 , t15, D30 , D44, D20TC
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post #132 of 429 Old 07-09-2008, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
supraman1990
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It's MPI, since 87

80 CJ5 in the process of a frame up resto
96% complete.
The little stuff will kill me.
On the back burner for college.
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post #133 of 429 Old 07-10-2008, 04:17 PM
trailridin4x4x4
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i have a 81 cj7 with complete mpi 4.0 in it from a 98 xj that i disconnected my battery the other day to do a offroad light installation, when i has finished i hooked the battery back up and started the jeep it went into two thousand rpm and wouldn't drop. i then turned the motor off and restarted it and it idiled fine, i backed the jeep out of my garage and took it for a test drive and it backfired through the exast. i then returned to my driveway and turned the jeep off. i then restarted the jeep and took out again and it was fine, now today i drove my jeep to work and for the first block it backfired twice then it seemed fine........what did i do? is there a certin way you are supposed to treat the computer after the battery is unhooked? will it work itself out ?
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post #134 of 429 Old 07-10-2008, 05:10 PM
ndigilio3
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i would recomend disconnecting the positive cable and touching it to the negative cable for at least 30 seconds. that should clear the computer. the next 50 starts the comp. will relearn everything.
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post #135 of 429 Old 07-10-2008, 05:59 PM
trailridin4x4x4
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are you sure its 50 starts? have you done this before? just curious i was told if i cycle the key to the accessory postion 6 or 7 times the computer will reset is this true?
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