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Unread 06-01-2008, 06:30 AM   #106
CJHVN
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Duluth, Minnesota
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Has anyone had any problems with belt alignment after their swap? When I did my swap, I stripped my 4.0L donor, rebuilt it, and threw it in.

After I installed all the front end components, I cannot get the serpentine belt to align correctly. At first, it walked toward the engine. I changed the idler pulley and harmonic balancer and now it is walking away from the engine.

I can NOT get it running true! What is up?!?!

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85 CJ-7, 4.0L, twin stick/clocked flat Dana 300, SOA, 36" TSL's, 30/44 locked, Warn X8000i

92 XJ, 4.0L, AW4, Dropped NP231, 30/8.25, 4" DPG Hybrid lift, 33" MT/R's, JKS trackbar, JKS discos, OME Nitro Shocks, stinger bumper, Warn X8000i, etc. (work in progress)
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Unread 06-01-2008, 08:13 AM   #107
supraman1990
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Sounds like you have either a pulley or two out of line or that you have one or two warped. Thats the only real cause of walk like that.
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Unread 06-01-2008, 09:54 AM   #108
CJHVN
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I sort of figured that. I just can't seem to figure out which one. There are too many variables.

The pulleys have different thicknesses so putting a straight edge on them isn't the solution.

Any ideas? I'm getting ready to push this thing off a cliff!
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85 CJ-7, 4.0L, twin stick/clocked flat Dana 300, SOA, 36" TSL's, 30/44 locked, Warn X8000i

92 XJ, 4.0L, AW4, Dropped NP231, 30/8.25, 4" DPG Hybrid lift, 33" MT/R's, JKS trackbar, JKS discos, OME Nitro Shocks, stinger bumper, Warn X8000i, etc. (work in progress)

Last edited by CJHVN; 06-03-2008 at 08:25 PM..
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Unread 06-04-2008, 11:32 PM   #109
noriegaramon
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I own an 84 C7 with an 4.2 I6 stock engine close to its end bad carb and hard to find pieces for and a tight budget, I am curious about a swap to a 4.0 off a jeep cherokee sport i could find from a roll over or something, Is it worth it? what year 4.0 should I look for? manual?
Thank you for this thread and your help!

Did I mention it leaks oil everywhere?
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Unread 06-04-2008, 11:48 PM   #110
CopperCJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtEater View Post
I have a local shop that wants $4500 otd to do a 4.0 swap in my CJ. The engine will have around 100K on it. Is this a fair price to pay for a swap out the door? Keep in mind this is SoCal, and it all has to be smog legal.
I just did this swap. I got the 4.0 rebuilt first and it was around that price for removal of the 258, rebuild the 4.0 and install of the 4.0, so yours is way too steep. Steep because you're considering putting an OLD tired motor into the CJ for $4500? No way.

You can get a rebuilt 4.0 from Quadratec or 4WD Hardware (with a warranty) for around $1600 - 1700 with a small fee for the core charge. The shipping of your 4.0 to you and pick up of the old 258 is included. You'd, of course, have to pay someone to put the 4.0 in and remove the 258.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
What CJ owner doesn't want to hack up his harness for the next owner to have fun with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Broseph View Post
The thread will derail quicker than a walrus on a Crisco-soaked Slip 'n' Slide.
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Unread 06-05-2008, 08:20 AM   #111
supraman1990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noriegaramon View Post
I own an 84 C7 with an 4.2 I6 stock engine close to its end bad carb and hard to find pieces for and a tight budget, I am curious about a swap to a 4.0 off a jeep cherokee sport i could find from a roll over or something, Is it worth it? what year 4.0 should I look for? manual?
Thank you for this thread and your help!

Did I mention it leaks oil everywhere?
You will see tons more power than with the choked down 4.2. The year I would try to look for is the 91-95 since it is the OBD1 model, and OBD2 gets to be a pain in the *** to install. Manual doesn't entirely matter, but I chose to get a manual one just so I didn't have to source a flywheel.
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Unread 06-05-2008, 08:42 PM   #112
kconnor123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supraman1990 View Post
You will see tons more power than with the choked down 4.2. The year I would try to look for is the 91-95 since it is the OBD1 model, and OBD2 gets to be a pain in the *** to install. Manual doesn't entirely matter, but I chose to get a manual one just so I didn't have to source a flywheel.
Great idea getting a manual 91-95 cherokee for the swap, but that manual tranny'd 91-95 cherokee's are extremely hard to find. I've been looking...I think they must have built about 10 over that 5 year span....

And if you try to find a wrangler from 91-95 for cheap cheap, good luck, everyone who owns a wrangler from those years think they are worth at least 5 grand no matter how rusty and beat down they are. Supra how much did you pay for your donor wrangler?
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Whats Next: Wide track swap, winch, new seats, eventually a 4.0 mpi swap from a 90's cherokee or wrangler.
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Unread 06-05-2008, 09:19 PM   #113
supraman1990
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I didn't buy a whole donor, I pieced mine for cheap. Used a cherokee harnes, and a wrangler engine. I stole my 4.0 with 111K miles for $150 bucks on E-bay, cost around $250 to ship.
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Unread 06-08-2008, 09:55 AM   #114
CopperCJ7
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Also, try these guys: www.gearheadjeep.com
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Guns don't kill people... Bad trail spotters do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
What CJ owner doesn't want to hack up his harness for the next owner to have fun with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Broseph View Post
The thread will derail quicker than a walrus on a Crisco-soaked Slip 'n' Slide.
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Unread 06-10-2008, 04:54 PM   #115
Last Boyscout
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turned the key on my 98 OBDII swap. she fired on the first turn. now i'm haveing the exhaust done. once my roll cage is in it's off to the trails.......
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Unread 06-12-2008, 01:04 PM   #116
BioTex
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welding option for water jacket holes in head

I took my 4.0 Head to a machinist/welder friend of mine to get his opinion on sealing up the water jackets. He said he had real good luck using a Sil-Bronze rod (Silicone not Silver) with his MIG welder to stick to cast iron. He pre-heated the head, and easily built up beads to seal off each hole. I watched him do it, and only took him about 35 minutes. The Bronze is soft enough to file or sand smooth, and I think is a better option than JB weld.
Just wanted to offer another option here.
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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Unread 06-12-2008, 01:16 PM   #117
BioTex
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swapping an Auto for a Manual transmission?

I'm thinking of using a 91 Cherokee Auto tranny and tranfer case in place of my existing T4/Transfer Case. This is will save me from having to purchase a flywheel and from having to perform the CPS mod. I also have a noisy throw-out bearing.
I would appreciate some other opinions on this. Is this a can of worms? I might have to shorten the driveshaft, but have a friend who will do it for free. What do I do for a shifter? The cherokee has a floor console. Will that work? What about wiring? I can just get the harness, and plug it in to the original main harness to the computer right? One more concern is my final ratio. I have 3.31 gears with 33 tires. With the addition of FI, I should be ok i'm thinking. Please advise!
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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Unread 06-12-2008, 04:32 PM   #118
Last Boyscout
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the 91 Cherokee should have an AW4 for the auto. you'll also need the tranny controller. staying with the auto will cut back on the thinning of the wiring harness. the AW4 and NP231 make for a long drive train. it is do able in a cj7. with 4" of lift and that short of a drive shaft you'll need a shaft that can handle extreme angles. if you wheel your cj i would put a short shaft SYE kit on the NP231. this will give you a little more length on the shaft. plus, the slip yoke on the NP231 will lose fluid if the shaft slips off the tcase from suspension flex. or were you planing on using your D300?

the AW4 uses a cable shifter. so, your options are open. you can use a cj auto steering column w/shifter. but it requires an adapter. the shift pattern on th cj column is reversed to the AW4.
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Unread 06-12-2008, 05:40 PM   #119
ndigilio3
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dont forget the 231 is a drivers side drop. so a new front axle will be needed. but why would you want to use that. the 300 is by far superior to the 231. but the aw4 with a double cv shaft would be a good choice
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Unread 06-12-2008, 08:35 PM   #120
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndigilio3 View Post
dont forget the 231 is a drivers side drop. so a new front axle will be needed. but why would you want to use that. the 300 is by far superior to the 231. but the aw4 with a double cv shaft would be a good choice
So if I go with the AW4/D300 combo, then is there still an issue with such a short shaft? Is a double CV shaft an aftermarket item? I'm not familiar with them...
I'm just trying to explore all options before I commit to the swap.
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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