I only need those 5 wires you had said the harness will be a little thin.
The "5 to fire" refers to the wires you splice to run the donor motor. YOU NEED MORE THAN 5 WIRES.
When we talk about thinning the harness we are referring to features in the harness that will not be used. You must keep all the wiring related to the sensors to run the motor. Your motor is an 87 so it would be a Renix (not OBDI or OBDII). From what very little I've read about Renix swaps it should be simple and straight forward. I do not believe there is a lot you need to thin unless the donor was fully loaded. In 87 must of the "loaded" options wold be in the cab wiring harness.
If you do the 4.0L head swap do you still need the cam position sensor? or can you run it stand alone with a junk yard computer and wiring? I built a ford 360 with direct port and we made it stand alone with a stock early '90s f150 computer, but i can't remember if there was a cam sensor on it or not.
ok someone I need help. first a little history Ive got an 89 wrangler with the 4.2 that fairly fresh. just swaped the head for a 4.0 ho off a 92 cherokee along with the complete mpi setup. I used a 4.0 flywheel and a new cps sensor. My problem is when I try to start it it will start fow about a sec than die. Ive traced out all the wiring a dozen times all ground are hooked up neutral safety is grounded everything looks gd just cant get it to run. Ive tested the computer on a running cherokee and it works. Im stumped Ive done numerous fuel injection swaps using chevy engines this is my first chysler conversion. ANY HELP would be gratefull
Just a couple quik questions. I am finally starting my wireing on my MPI setup. I have herd that the Hesco computer will run better than a stock and that was from a guy who sells the stock computer. If I do get a stock one what are the #'s that I should stay away from?
Small problem, I have a '94 4.0l with an '82 T5 mated but cannot get the starter installed. It appears that the oil pan bolts are getting in the way. Has this been a problem for anyone else?? Can I just cut the bolts? Also I am using the CJ flywheel and CJ starter.
I'm planning a build and intend to use a 4.0/AW4 drivetrain.....the goal being to mix/match engine componants from the different years to get the most power out of it as possible. Here's what I'm thinking engine wise:
Anyone disagree or think I should be using Grand Cherokee parts instead? I'm just trying to figure out what the BEST model/model years parts donors are going to be since I'm starting from scratch....chime in guys, this will be very useful info!
I might stroke it with 258 internals if it can be done without affecting reliability, but, I have no intentions of changing the bore size.
85 Grand Wagoneer
Quik question, I am having trouble getting my engine to fire up. I have a 4.0 head, Mpi, AX15 tranny with the bellhousing CPS and a hesco wiring harness. It just back fires. Now I have checked and redone the dizzy and I am possitive it is installed correctly! So I think my problem lies with the computer or the CPS. The computer is throwing wierd codes and I am working on getting a code reader to get the codes that way.
My question is, when I mounted the flywheel was there a certain way for it to go on or does it just bolt up? Could my problem be there?
The flywheel should only go on in one position, the bolt holes are drilled in a pattern so they only line up in one spot. Did you do your own bellhousing mod? Do you have pictures I could compare to mine? Mine is working fine but I swapped in a running 4.0. Check this write up on indexing the 4.0 distributor http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html
Thats what I thought about the flywheel. I have read just about everything I could find on indexing the dizzy. It is in there right. I have checked it a million times! It is driving me nuts. I am trying to get a code reader, here are the #'s it throws when I check the codes.
1__2__3__5__7__3__3__5__4__1__ then 55 to end it.
I have checked this about 15 times, I've even had my wife, neighbor and my 9 year old son count it out, and it throws the same #'s everytime.
12 should be batterry disconnected in the last 50 key-on cycles, 35 should be an open or shorted condition detected in the radiator fan relay circuit, 73....I have NO clue???, 35 we covered and 41 should be an open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit. I don't know if using an LED would change anything but I wouldn't think so.