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Unread 08-24-2008, 03:43 PM   #151
Last Boyscout
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is a cj7 or 5? a 5 is to short to use the aw4 that's stock in most gc. a 7 you can use the aw4 but it will require new longer and shorter drive shafts. check Novak for an adapter for the d300. you'll have to weigh the cost of new parts to make the longer auto work. you'll also have to increase the length of the d300 linkage, and new cross member for the tranny. lots of things to consider.

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Unread 08-25-2008, 06:41 AM   #152
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Wow thanks your cleared up a lot of the points I was worried about. It is technically a YJ tub but the chassis is CJ-7. Drive shafts are not a problem we have a place localy that can make us whatever length we need and already repaired a twisted and snapped drive shaft tube once on it. Cross member I think we can manage w/ some scrap metal and a welder lol. The only thing I am not sure about is the linkage. What kind of parts are we talking about to lengthen the linkage? The reason we want to go auto is because it has a plow on it and plowing is just easier in an automatic. Plus the clutch we had to put in it to handle plowing makes it almost undrivable for me. Mainly because the seat doesn't move forward enough for me. Another question? The GC transfer case doesn't have the drive shafts coming out from the right side that we want and will not work w/ the CJ axle's correct? Thanks for all the info you have already provided.

Last edited by somebody5788; 08-25-2008 at 07:23 AM..
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Unread 08-25-2008, 07:07 AM   #153
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Novak can adapt the AW4 to D300. No big deal. The GCs had a lot of 44REs-- 46REs. I don't know if they adapt those.
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48 CJ-2A, Bone stock except it has Allstate locking hubs.
86 CJ-7, 4.0 HO, AX-15, D-30, AMC-20
84 CJ-7, YJ tub and fenders, 258 ci, T-176, D-30, D-44 Trutracs F/R, 4.27s, 33s
77-90ish Wagoneer/TJ/CJ Yard Sale Special, 360AMC, TH400, Quadratrac, D-44s F/R, 3.07s, 34" LTBs.
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Unread 08-25-2008, 07:31 PM   #154
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i don't know if they are the same between the 4.0 & 2.5. a parts # search would answer that. the cps from auto to manual are the same, but the location id different. use the link i gave you to cjoffroad. use the search on the forum. there is 1 master chrysler tech that signs in all the time. marty socal. you'll be able to tell from his responses.
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Unread 08-25-2008, 10:20 PM   #155
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Has anybody on here done the 4.0 head/MPI swap on the 4.2 and used the wireing harness from the 4.0? I am getting ready to do that part of my swap and I cant decide if I want to do the wireing harness myself or buy the one from hesco. I rather not spend the 500 bucks!
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Unread 08-26-2008, 06:55 AM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan99 View Post
Has anybody on here done the 4.0 head/MPI swap on the 4.2 and used the wireing harness from the 4.0? I am getting ready to do that part of my swap and I cant decide if I want to do the wireing harness myself or buy the one from hesco. I rather not spend the 500 bucks!
Save the 500 bucks.
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48 CJ-2A, Bone stock except it has Allstate locking hubs.
86 CJ-7, 4.0 HO, AX-15, D-30, AMC-20
84 CJ-7, YJ tub and fenders, 258 ci, T-176, D-30, D-44 Trutracs F/R, 4.27s, 33s
77-90ish Wagoneer/TJ/CJ Yard Sale Special, 360AMC, TH400, Quadratrac, D-44s F/R, 3.07s, 34" LTBs.
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Unread 08-26-2008, 10:42 AM   #157
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That is why I am posting this. the problem is that I suck at electrical. I am doing a complete frame up and I dont want to burn it up on some crappy electrical work. So if there is anybody out there that has done this please let me know!
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Unread 08-26-2008, 11:52 AM   #158
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To do a head swap you need what: ECM, PDC, and all the sensors. So, yes I have done this it’s all reattached to my 4.0 I swapped in. Are you also stroking it? For anyone who doesn’t know what I’m talking about I am not coming on to him.
What part of the wiring are you afraid of thinning, soldering, or just the general transplant?
Thinning is not that hard. Get a FSM or access to AllDatta. The hardest part of thinning is removing the miles of electrical and friction tape the Mexico factory that assembled the harness used. All I did was label (with masking tape) any component I wasn’t swapping or using and tug and trace it all the way back to it’s source before I cut it out. I recommend labeling everything your keeping, relocating, or removing, before you cut any thing. If you don’t you will have to splice it back in (and I did) when you find the splices that run through the harness. Lots of wires are common wires used by different sensors. If you just mark the brn/ylw (note: NEVER CUT THE BRN/YLW) from the component you’re removing then at the ECM and cut when you pull the wire you’ll find 1 to 2 splices tied in that go to things that were staying. I’m not trying to scare you. You just need to take your time and look at whole picture. What’s your time worth $500?
Soldering is easy. Do it right with solder and heat shrink. The trick I use for soldering is plumbers flux. It’s the paste you put on copper pipes when you sweat (solder) joints. Twists your wires then apply some flux now coat your iron with solder and touch it to the wires and flux. It will literally suck the solder up into the wires. With the iron on the wires add solder to them as needed to finish coating the connection. Flux makes anyone’s connection look like they were done by a pro.
If you were worried about the transplant the Hesco harness wouldn’t be any different
It might help if we knew what year head you were swapping. Someone my have the FSM on disk or PDF, or have thinned the same harness.
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Unread 08-26-2008, 12:07 PM   #159
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somebody, the nv231 is out of the question for your axles. I thought about swapping the AW4 and 231 in my swap. I was going to run the 231 inverted to match my drivers diff drop. Can’t be done the D300 is the only case you can run inverted. On the linkage just replace the rods in the t-case shift linkage with ones that are long enough. I can’t tell you the length. It’s going to take a little fab work on your part once installed to find the throw you need.
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Unread 08-26-2008, 01:11 PM   #160
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Thanks again for the info. Just need to find the donor now lol.
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Unread 08-26-2008, 03:45 PM   #161
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Well lastboyscout, here is what I have........

93 head resurfaced, new springs and valves, ported and polished
93 wireing harness from a cherokee
92 intake manifold, injectros and TB
92 exhaust manifold

Well i serched e-bay for the hesco wireing harness and I found one, it has a couple days left and its at 100 bucks. I am going to keep my eye on that and if I can get it for around 250 or 300 I am going to buy it. I have a ton left to do on my project and anytime saved will help alot.

The things that I am worried about on the wireing is not knowing what I need to keep and what I need to get rid of. I have everything except for the computer right now but I have my eye on a couple right now. And that brings up another question, will just one for a manual work since I am running the Ax15 or can I use an auto? Any help would be great!
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Unread 08-26-2008, 05:42 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan99 View Post
Well lastboyscout, here is what I have........

93 head resurfaced, new springs and valves, ported and polished
93 wireing harness from a cherokee
92 intake manifold, injectros and TB
92 exhaust manifold

Well i serched e-bay for the hesco wireing harness and I found one, it has a couple days left and its at 100 bucks. I am going to keep my eye on that and if I can get it for around 250 or 300 I am going to buy it. I have a ton left to do on my project and anytime saved will help alot.

The things that I am worried about on the wireing is not knowing what I need to keep and what I need to get rid of. I have everything except for the computer right now but I have my eye on a couple right now. And that brings up another question, will just one for a manual work since I am running the Ax15 or can I use an auto? Any help would be great!
I googled the ECM part number on mine. It looks like the part numbers are broken down by year and model but I don't see where the transmission makes a difference.
http://www.autoecmecu.com/jeep-ecu-ecm.html

Use the Cherokee harness. I suck at wiring too and I managed to use my XJ harness. It really wasn't that hard. It looks crazy. Just do one wire at a time. The 250 or 300 can be better spent.


I just ran out and snapped this. Don't point out the rad hose, it's just a temp.
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48 CJ-2A, Bone stock except it has Allstate locking hubs.
86 CJ-7, 4.0 HO, AX-15, D-30, AMC-20
84 CJ-7, YJ tub and fenders, 258 ci, T-176, D-30, D-44 Trutracs F/R, 4.27s, 33s
77-90ish Wagoneer/TJ/CJ Yard Sale Special, 360AMC, TH400, Quadratrac, D-44s F/R, 3.07s, 34" LTBs.

Last edited by Rezneck; 08-26-2008 at 05:59 PM.. Reason: Added pic.
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Unread 08-26-2008, 07:55 PM   #163
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[QUOTE=Stan99;5621850]

Well i serched e-bay for the hesco wireing harness and I found one, it has a couple days left and its at 100 bucks. I am going to keep my eye on that and if I can get it for around 250 or 300 I am going to buy it. QUOTE]

Hmmm...O.K. Found it...so if I bid 350. I can get it and save $150. Good deal!!...O.K. just messing with you but it is on my watch list too and I'm sure several others. I think i'll use the XJ harness.

A thought just occurred to me though. My '83 CJ5 has a computer,that I beleive only runs the BBD(?). So I can remove it,trace the wiring back to the bulkhead connector and cut those wires off,correct? I have several other CJ wiring harnesses, would I be better off using a pre-computer harness from the bulk head out(engine compartment) on the 4.0 swap?
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Unread 08-26-2008, 09:26 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kman1983 View Post
A thought just occurred to me though. My '83 CJ5 has a computer,that I beleive only runs the BBD(?). So I can remove it,trace the wiring back to the bulkhead connector and cut those wires off,correct? I have several other CJ wiring harnesses, would I be better off using a pre-computer harness from the bulk head out(engine compartment) on the 4.0 swap?
The wires you'd keep from the CJ would be the lights, horn, oil pressure, water temp, and windshield washer. There may be others but these are what came to mind.

Somewhere in this thread somebody listed which wires need splicing. There's 4 or 5 and I think you add a wire for the fuel pump. It's in this thread or a similar thread on CJOffroad, I don't remember.

http://www.cjoffroad.com/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1097
About the 14th post down by sevensandeights.
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48 CJ-2A, Bone stock except it has Allstate locking hubs.
86 CJ-7, 4.0 HO, AX-15, D-30, AMC-20
84 CJ-7, YJ tub and fenders, 258 ci, T-176, D-30, D-44 Trutracs F/R, 4.27s, 33s
77-90ish Wagoneer/TJ/CJ Yard Sale Special, 360AMC, TH400, Quadratrac, D-44s F/R, 3.07s, 34" LTBs.

Last edited by Rezneck; 08-26-2008 at 09:36 PM.. Reason: Added Link
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Unread 08-27-2008, 07:17 AM   #165
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Here's a quote from sevenandeights on cjoffroad. (can I do that?)
Helpful when you're using the donor harness.




"If you can I would wait until you get the FSM. This way you can check out the wiring diagrams and the schematics that show the locations of most of the major connectors. At the very least study your current harness and maybe even take it with you for comparison.

This is from memory so don't take it as gospel:

Starting at the front driver's side . . .
1.) The harness terminates at the PCM (I would ask the yard for a "complete harness" and definitely try to get the PCM as a back-up. The front light bundle and electric fan lead are here also.

2.) Going back toward the firewall should be the diagnostic port and then some ABS stuff that hooks into the proportioning valve

3.) Next up is the firewall bulkhead connector. Definitely get this - you most likely will not use it but it helps when it comes to wiring because the pin outs are in the FSM. It allows you to test your wiring by just crimping on some female spade terminals to plug into the connector.

4.) Going along the firewall toward the passenger side will be a grommet that leads to the gauges. If the XJ is pretty torn apart you can go behind the dash and unplug the connectors and pull these wires out for completeness but you should not need any of this stuff and could cut it off.

5.) Next is the MAP sensor on the firewall.

6.) Then comes the fuel rail harness and CPS. This harness is kinda a pain to get off because it uses plastic connectors with teeth that fit over the valve cover bolts. The injectors themselves are a pain too. You will need a small flat head screw driver to pop the retaining rings off. MAKE SURE TO LABEL THE INJECTORS AS THEY COME OFF! You can disconnect the CPS unless they want to give to you (I told my yard that it was part the "complete harness" just like the PCM).

7.) I think the next thing should be the tranny wiring. My donor had an AW4 auto so there was a harness that went through the firewall to the backside of the passenger's dash where it hooked up to the auto computer (again, part of the "complete harness"). There should also be a connector for the VSS here.

8.) The next thing should be a ground at the engine block near the oil dipstick tube and a connector to the distributor.

9.) You should now be to the passenger side fender and there will be a connector to the wiper pump and maybe the cruise control and A/C. My memory is fading!

10.) AT LAST THE PDC! The PDC has been described above and will have a 6 G red wire attached to it from the battery. Right before the PDC there are a bunch of wires that go to the alternator, starter, and coil.

That's all I can remember. I think you will be safe if you cut every wire that goes through the firewall. Take your time and label everything or take pictures. I had never seen a 4.0L engine when I pulled my harness so I was pretty meticulous with the disassembly.

Don't forget the accelerator cable if you haven't got one yet."
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Throw the bums out!


48 CJ-2A, Bone stock except it has Allstate locking hubs.
86 CJ-7, 4.0 HO, AX-15, D-30, AMC-20
84 CJ-7, YJ tub and fenders, 258 ci, T-176, D-30, D-44 Trutracs F/R, 4.27s, 33s
77-90ish Wagoneer/TJ/CJ Yard Sale Special, 360AMC, TH400, Quadratrac, D-44s F/R, 3.07s, 34" LTBs.
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