Originally Posted by sweetguardian00
Jeephammer, i don't know you personally, only on the Forum, and i will say that not only do you think for 2 seconds before you post, but you also know how to tell people things so they listen to you. as for the Holley tricks, this might get the Willys Pickup running properly again!
You know, when the guys that like to name call, cause problems, ect show up, the say I'm too long winded...
That people don't WANT to know what is causing the problem, just what part number will FIX the problem...
Thinking like that is what gets engines declared 'Blown Up' and scrapped over leaking exhaust or bent rocker arms...
I believe that EVERY ONE OF YOU SERIOUS GUYS wants to know what is 'Causing' the issues,
What steps can be taken to correct the 'Issue',
and what is available to HELP correct the 'Issue'...
If you know what causes it, then you can figure out how to fix it the next time!
I may be azz-backwards in that thinking, but there sure are a lot of guys that soak this stuff up and have vehicles running because someone shined a light on a specific 'Issue' and they fixed it! And now have a RUNNING vehicle instead of an expensive lawn ornament!
Originally Posted by Cherokeester
Truck Avengers have almost everything that Jeephammer is talking about installed and tuned at the factory. I have a 470 on my 304. From personal experience I must tell you that carb has never loaded on me once on any trail in moab. I have my Jeep so steep I had to lean forward to keep it from rolling over backwards and the engine never missed a rotation as it were. I recommend a properly tuned Holley highly. Follow Jeephammers directions above and you will be pretty happy with the performance.
'Truck Avengers' are the culmination of about 30 years of Off Road experience from some really inventive guys!
When Holley dipped into trucks, they found out two things really quickly...
1. We don't go in stright lines 1/4 mile at a time,
2. We don't go in tight left hand circles!
They had to address things like fuel sloshing out of the float bowl into the vent tubes...
Taller vent tubes kept the fuel from getting out as easily,
(look at the top vent tube front to rear over the ventruis, it's drilled full of holes at the top, and that raises the flow bowl vent by 2" or better!)
'Whistles', plastic vent extension that go inside the float bowl to keep the fuel from leaking out of the front bowl when going UP a steep hill,
Or in the rear to keep fuel from leaking going DOWN a steep hill,
(or during hard acceleration or braking, stolen from dragsters)
Jet extensions to keep the fuel from uncovering the Jets when going up or down steep hills.
Round floats to keep the flat bottom float from doing weird things when you lean the carb way over (actually stolen from FARM TRUCK carbs!, Farm Trucks get leaned over all sorts of strange ways!)
Spring loaded needle and seat,
Keeps the weight of the float on the end of that float arm from 'Bouncing', works sort of like a 'Shock Absorber' to keep the needle and seat under control when you are bouncing around or 'Washboarding' through some obsticle!
(and YES! We ALL go too fast though those sorts of things, you aren't the only one!
This is all common sense...
The biggest problem we have with Holleys is power valves, and 15 minutes with a vacuum gauge will eliminate 90% of those problems!
Power valve 1 InHg to 1.5 InHg below your 'Part Throttle Cruise' vacuum reading if you are 'Hot Rodding'...
Lets the enrichment come 'IN' right away when you 'Goose' the throttle.
2 InHg to 2.5 InHg below your 'Part Throttle Cruise' vacuum reading when you are off roading the vehicle some,
This keeps the Power Valve closed when you are at idle, and just trying to 'Goose' the throttle to 'Finesse' an obstacle... So the vehicle doesn't 'Load Up' or 'Flood Out'...
(rock crawlers and rock racers don't 'Finesse' anything!)
You still want that power valve working if you drive on the street!
That is a REAL FUEL SAVER when you are on the street, and doesn't do a bad job on trail rides keeping the fuel consumption at reasonable levels!
Plug the Power Valve and jet up the carb to compensate if you are ONLY off roading at serious angles all the time...
Rock Racers don't care about 'Finesse' or 'Fuel Mileage', so they can do without it.
Lower your fuel pressure a little, just a pound or two.
This keeps large volumes of fuel from squirting into the float bowl every time the float gets jostled around,
OR anytime the fuel is 'Off Camber' in the bowl and uncovers part of the float...
Also, your needle and seat are balanced between the lift the float is getting from the fuel in the bowl,
And the fuel pressure in the line trying to blow the needle off the seat!
When you lower the fuel pressure a tad, this gives you float more leverage to control the fuel flow! Simple, easy, reliable 'REVERSIBLE' if you need more fuel pressure later, and will make a HUGE difference in a lot of situations...
LOWER THE FLOAT LEVEL...
This costs NOTHING, and allows your carb to go more OFF CAMBER before the needle and seat open, flooding fuel in like crazy!
Just about one or two flats of the adjusting nut is all that is needed to make some HUGE differences in performance...
1. The leverage of the float/arm on the needle and seat breaks over at about 'Optimum' float level, which is fuel just creeping out of the bowl float level plug threads...
So if you lower even 1/16", the float/arm can often get better control of the float level.
Secondly, lowering the float level will often keep fuel from doing 'Strange' stuff...
Leaking out the bowl vents, creating too much pressure on the main jets, lowers the fuel level in the emulsion tubes, ect.
We aren't talking 'Coon Tuned' race cars here battling over 1/100 Second in 1/4 Mile,
We are talking the difference between getting the darn thing to run on a 10° off camber situation!
The most EXPENSIVE thing you will run into...
And I suggest you look for a USED carb or set of float bowls, since most all float bowls will interchange.
Center Hung Float Bowls use wide, flat bottom floats, that do TERRIBLE off camber!
Side Pivot Float Bowls use round bottom floats, witch handle off camber tilt angles MUCH better!
(See Pictures in my post above for floats)
Anyway, it's all in the tuning and some cheap parts, not really hard for anyone to understand once it's explained in practical terms.