Nut broke loose inside frame (transfer case) - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 10-15-2013, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
Grumpy_one
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Nut broke loose inside frame (transfer case)

So I'm going back to stock height on my t/c being it was lowered in the past. One of the nuts broke loose inside the frame and is now the bolt is spinning free. So I have a couple of options. I can look into a nutsert (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/nu...nstall-390635/) or pull a bolt through the hole and double nut it to get a third nut tightened against it. I've seen where a carriage bolt and plate is inserted into the frame also. The nutsert is for YJ's, don't see why it wouldn't work here. Anyone have any different idea's? Luckily there's a hole in the frame close to the culprit.

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post #2 of 11 Old 10-15-2013, 08:45 PM
Truck633
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I used a punch, knocked out the nut, then used a screw driver to hold a lock washer and nut in place..Took me a good hour, but was pretty euphoric when she finally took hold!!

Not looking forward to doing it again when I have to... Will probably grind a hole in the frame just up from the bolt and then patch it back after I fix it correctly.

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post #3 of 11 Old 10-16-2013, 09:19 PM
billybooster2
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i used the yj nutsert idea. i welded it lightly to frame to give it the bite it needed....Holds up fine albeit it was a smaller size nut than the rest...
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post #4 of 11 Old 10-17-2013, 03:00 AM
Oldcraneguy
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I just drilled a hole thru the top and thru-bolted it....ocg
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-17-2013, 06:04 AM
gmakra
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I did nut sets or rivnuts (same thing ) on all the skid plate weld nuts and never had a problem in fact its nice to have clean threads to work with. Also if you ever have to remove the skid plate its not a hassle to unbolts the thing.
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post #6 of 11 Old 10-17-2013, 05:23 PM
jcal73
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On my 5 the skid plate had some overlap outside the frame.
I welded 2 inch tubing to the side of the frame drilled them to match and installed 7/16 grade 8 bolts with lock nuts.
Looks OK and no more welded nuts to deal with.

Here's a crappy pic



Jeff
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post #7 of 11 Old 10-17-2013, 05:33 PM
skizriz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcal73 View Post
On my 5 the skid plate had some overlap outside the frame.
I welded 2 inch tubing to the side of the frame drilled them to match and installed 7/16 grade 8 bolts with lock nuts.
Looks OK and no more welded nuts to deal with.


Jeff
Good solution. Pop some 2" receiver covers in there and you are good to go.

I always hated how my pan stuck out past the frame,so I trimmed it off flush. I welded in all new heavy steel nutserts also.

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post #8 of 11 Old 10-17-2013, 06:55 PM
jcal73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skizriz View Post
Good solution. Pop some 2" receiver covers in there and you are good to go.

I always hated how my pan stuck out past the frame,so I trimmed it off flush. I welded in all new heavy steel nutserts also.
I thought of trying to make some sort of plug for the ends. Hitch covers may be the trick.
They actually look better than the pic. They do not get much mud in there either. I've been running it that way for three or four years.
I was putting around on our hunting lease and the skid almost fell off.
The threads just let go and that fix is what we came up with in the back yard to get us hunting the next day.
It was a very uneasy ride home with the skid being held up on one side with a ratchet strap!
I was planning on doing nutserts, but it works and I just stuck with it.

Jeff
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post #9 of 11 Old 10-17-2013, 10:16 PM
CrankyD
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Right way, order some weld nut from fastenal or Grainger, I think I used 3/8-16. stick a bolt in and fish the nut in there and snug it downjust to keep it in place when you weld it. I was able to get 7018 stick in to hit both sides on almost all of the weld nuts.

Faster way, stick the bolt in the hole from the inside grab the threads with a vice grips and tack it on the outside, then just grind off any excess.
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-18-2013, 12:34 AM
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I had to repair one the other night. I punch out the bad one if it's still there and drill the hole out to .5". I use a dremel tool and a grinding stone to round out the hole better and get inside and smooth out the inside edge best I can so the new nut has a clean seat.
I found a piece of scrape steal and cut to length with a .5" hole in the center.
I round over the edges of a flanged nut and grind down till it fits the holes in both the plate and frame.
Weld the nut to the plate and drill two side holes for welding it in.
I use stiff weed eater line and a telescoping magnet to fish a threaded rod section into the new hole and out an inner frame access oval nearby.
Thread on the plate and pull through the hole. Hold in place with the magnet head from the inside and remove threaded rod and replace with a short bolt and nug.
Tighten and weld. grind the smooth out and it looks just like the other ones but way stronger.











Now if you don't have a welder and drill/tools, etc....ignore the above and fish a self locking nut inside after youve made sure it will spin on the bolt freely. You can pull down as you tighten and most times it will work.

Ed
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post #11 of 11 Old 10-18-2013, 12:19 PM
hp_lovecraft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldcraneguy View Post
I just drilled a hole thru the top and thru-bolted it....ocg
I did the same. I ended up busting 4 of the 6 bolts. I thru-bolted as a temporary solution, until I could setup a proper fix.

That was 3 years ago. Seems like it would stress the frame, and lead to premature cracking. But this has been my daily driver, and there is a long list of issues, and fixing those bolts are at the bottom of a long list.
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