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Unread 09-09-2007, 06:20 PM   #1
mr burns
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1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 16
Noob Buying 79 CJ7 this week - Needs advice

So, I've wanted a CJ7 since my friend in high school got one (that's like 15 years ago). Recently my wife and I decided to sell the mini van and she took my avalon. Now, I get to get something new! I decided it was time to live the dream. After stalking craigslist for several weeks I think I found a winner. Take a peek:

http://www.designsimple.net/463.jpg

So, my question is (me not being super mechanical) what do I need to look for when I check this thing out tomorrow? It has obviously had some work done. What questions should I ask? Any common trouble spots I should check?

I am really excited about the possibility of getting this jeep. I jsut don't want to rush in because it look nice.

Any help would be appreciated.

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Unread 09-09-2007, 06:24 PM   #2
mr burns
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Location: Richmond VA
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Oh, and here are some of the things the guy listed about the Jeep... if they give you any additional insight for questions:

Newly rebuilt custom fit 350
New 4 Barrel Carburetor (Edelbrock)
New Water Pump and Fan
Chrome Side Pipes
Stainless accessories
Newer Soft Top and Doors
Newer Dashboard Cover
Newer Carpet
Newer Seat Covers
Newer Tires
Chrome Rims
Trailer Hitch
Heat Works
Fiberglass Body
Newer Paint (Midnight Blue)
Tilt Steering
Automatic Transmission
RENEGADE DECALS
Full Time 4x4
New Battery
Original Suspension
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Unread 09-09-2007, 06:44 PM   #3
mmerlina
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Location: Danvers, MA
Posts: 1,668
Hey, that jeep looks pretty sweet. Mind if I ask how much he's asking for it?

Also, just to pass the word along and help out a fellow JF member, someone was asking about specs for the RENEGADE decals. Maybe next time you go visit that jeep you can help him out?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/lettering-dimensions-459136/

But anyhow good luck with it! Glad things are looking your way.
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1986 Jeep CJ7 (photos)
Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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Unread 09-09-2007, 06:48 PM   #4
mmerlina
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When I bought my CJ7 I was informed to pay close attention to the body mounts and make sure they were in decent condition. I was told that is a very common trouble spot.

Other than that man from the outside it looks pretty nice. Have him pop the hood and just make sure everything looks in order. Make sure it drives well (keep in mind it is a jeep

Check underneath it and make sure there's nothing super major to be concerned about.

There are a bunch of "common problems" with jeeps as I'm sure you will learn when you do buy one. But most of the solutions to those problems have been mainstreamed here and shouldn't be a huge deal getting it taken care of.

Good luck again,
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1986 Jeep CJ7 (photos)
Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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Unread 09-09-2007, 07:35 PM   #5
79cj7reny
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: NC
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Common issues include frame rust/rot around body mounts, rot in rear section of frame( front is usually covered with oil so it won't rust ) Cracks in frame where steering box bolts to. Also cracks around body mounts and shock mounts. That jeep looks pretty good from here, but you'd be surprised at what you can hide under some undercoating and spray paint. Since the suspension is original you don't have to worry about improper mods. Now that you found us you can get steered in the right direction. Just remember though -J.E.E.P = Just Empty Every Pocket Think that's funny? Just wait! Good Luck!
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Unread 09-09-2007, 08:12 PM   #6
SuB8HaVeN
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That thing looks pretty clean! Just make sure and drive it (especially on the interstate) and see how it does and make sure it's something you're going to be able to do on a daily basis. If it's possible, pull up some of the carpet in the floorboards and check to see if there's any rust or if there has been any metal work done. One of the problem areas on the CJ tub is where the rollbar goes into the floor at each corner behind the front seats.

Also make sure to check underneath as mentioned above. A lot of times people like to just paint things and make them look pretty, but the underside is complete rust and falling apart. Check to see if he did a frame-off restoration on that thing; if he did chances are the frame and tub should be in excellent condition.
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Unread 09-09-2007, 10:23 PM   #7
T18A
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Last edited by T18A; 05-16-2008 at 07:20 PM..
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Unread 09-10-2007, 05:12 AM   #8
mr burns
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The guy did mention that the only problem he knew of was some rust on the frame. He said something like he's taken it off and sanded and applied some clear coat (or something like that)... How much rust is too much? Also, forgive my ignorance, again, I'm not very mechanical, but where specifically is the "body mount" so I can be sure to inspect how much rust is there.

Looking at it today at noon. Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks for all the help everyone. Looking forward to joining the crew.
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Unread 09-10-2007, 05:29 AM   #9
supraman1990
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Body mounts are the points on the frame that the body bolts to. Self explanitory once you look under the Jeep. My general rule, is if the rust is thru the frame, it's probably too much. Just think of the metal skills you have or are willing to pay for. If you think it's too much rust for that, then it's too much rust.
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Unread 09-10-2007, 01:20 PM   #10
mr burns
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Thanks everyone. Just got back from the test drive and it drives like it looks! Amazing. Some rust, but not bad. Exhaust sounds very mean. Lots of power. Very excited. Plan on picking it up this weekend (guy is out of town rest of week).

Only things that surprised me were how difficult braking was. Seller said that was normal and you get used to it. Also, the sway in the steering was interesting. I had read some of the forums earlier about that issue, so I wasn't too surprised.

Thanks again.
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Unread 09-10-2007, 01:47 PM   #11
TexasCJ7
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How much was he asking?
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Unread 09-10-2007, 02:38 PM   #12
SuB8HaVeN
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Where was the rust at? You may want to double-check that. A lot of times it may just look like surface rust but it is actually rusted through.

If it doesn't have power brakes, then it's completely normal to have to really use your leg to get it to stop. That's how my 86 is but I've just gotten used to it. Once you drive it around for a while you'll be able to stop on a dime without thinking twice about it.
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Unread 09-10-2007, 03:48 PM   #13
mr burns
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$4,000 was the price we settled on.

As for rust, there wasn't any one spot that had it... it was just had general rust underneath. It didn't appear that the body mounts had any major rust issues. I went with supraman's advice that if it looked like too much, then it's too much. It was there, but I didn't feel like it was extreme for the age of the jeep. I could be wrong... but with the lower sale price I have a little leeway if I need to address any issues out the gate. Once I pick it up I'll post some detailed pics and everyone can tell me what I need to do.

Also, the jeep passed VA state inspection (http://www.vsp.state.va.us/Safety.sh...ectionProgram)... which gave me a little more peace about the deal.
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Unread 09-10-2007, 05:02 PM   #14
muddmonky
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its a fiberglass body how con u even call that a cj.


o ya if u take it offroad youll probably crack it like by buddy did his.
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Unread 09-10-2007, 06:07 PM   #15
SuB8HaVeN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muddmonky
its a fiberglass body how con u even call that a cj.


o ya if u take it offroad youll probably crack it like by buddy did his.
Man I am such a tard. There I was telling you to check for rust on the floorboards...

For $4000, that sounds like a great deal by the picture. And especially if he's got a 350 V8 swapped in there. At least you won't have to worry about the fiberglass rusting. And working with fiberglass blemishes/dents/cracks is much easier to deal with than on steel IMO...
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