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Unread 09-23-2011, 06:19 AM   #1
alljagged24
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1985 CJ7 
 
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no start, electrical HELP! please

In the last month I have replaced every part on my cj below the. Spring hangers, before this the cj had no starting issues, I drove it before taking it to the alignment shop on monday and got it back tuesday and drove it into my shop.......all was well, I worked on it last night and went to drive it and the battery was dead, I tried
To jump in with another battery(mine is a new optima) because mine was only showing 4 volts, it sparked pretty good when I hooked it up, verified proper connection and hooked the cables up

I looked at the jumper cables and they were melting, long story short to help to identify the problem I hooked up a heavy duty set of cables and quickly turned the key, it barely turned over and continued to try and turn over after releasing the key, I'm pretty sure that the sparking while connecting the jumper cables is due to a large current draw from something stuck in the cranking position between the key switch and the starter solenoid

I do not know how to safely diagnose this, however the battery is disconnected (fully charged now) and I think the next best move is to remove the hot wire from the starter,

I'm not sure why my cj and my shop are not burnt to the ground from a high amp draw that lasted long enough to kill a healthy 1000cca optima

Any adice or writeup could save a cj and would be apreciated I feel like I'm working with a dangerous gremlin right now , thanks



(Bagus jeep if you comment on this please use lamens terms, your. Electrical terms often confuse. Me,thanks)

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Unread 09-23-2011, 06:50 AM   #2
John Strenk
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Do you have an Ohm meter on the Voltmeter you must of used to measure the 4 volts on the battery?

I would use it to check the starter solenoid to see if it's stuck closed. Also if only one side of the solenoid releases it is possible that the "I" terminal is still hot and killed your battery by supplying power to your coil for all that time.

One way this is possible is if you tightened the post on the starter solenoid without holding the first nut with a wrench to keep it from turning. IF the terminal turns then the contact will rotate inside that might keep it in contact with the batt side of the solenoid. You can check this also with the ohm meter. between the post going to the battery and the "I" post.

OF course at any time the solenoid could release and there would be no problem appearing until you start the jeep next time.
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Unread 09-23-2011, 07:16 AM   #3
Stumpbumper
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You said you replaced things.. lets see the list! what have you done. what wiring and parts have you touched. You have a direct short!
Have you drilled and holes? installed anything that you could have hit a wire or messed up installing a component!
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Unread 09-23-2011, 07:53 AM   #4
bkeese
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The only thing that draws that kind of power is the starter. Pull it out and check it on the bench.
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Unread 09-23-2011, 08:32 AM   #5
alljagged24
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Yes I have an ohm meter,the coil is no worry, dui wired with its own curcuit
No holes drilled, axles gears lockers ,springs, greasable shackles and all steering components just replaced

I'm going to get a new solenoid , when I rewired the ignition and replaced the solenoid months ago the jeep wouldn't shut off so I put a swich on the fround side of the ignition



No problems in the last 3 months but I'm sure the terminal spun.........why the issue now, did it weld itself together ? Thanks for the quick responses

Also sometimes the ignition switch will still turn after the key is out
Is this related?

Glad to know I can replace the solenoid and remove the kill switch! Thanks for the quick responses!
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fresh 258 .030 over comp cam ,clifford intake and header , holley 390 soa with procomp 2.5 in lift springs,2.5 in lift perches, d30 with detroit true trac, ford 8.8 performance limited slip 4.10 gears , 37 in iroks, custom bumpers and recovery points, super lined inside , no rust , fresh flat black paint, tested at trucksgonewild!!!
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Unread 09-23-2011, 10:14 AM   #6
JeepHammer
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Actually, this is sounding suspicously like another bad Optima battery...

If the starter relay (Solenoid) is sticking, then the small 'Red' wire on the small side terminal of the starter relay will be 'Hot',
It makes connection when the main starter contact does.

If you don't have a large drain at the starter relay (Starter can't draw if the relay isn't closed for operation),
The I would remove negative battery cable from battery, and put your volt meter between battery terminal and cable to see if the vehilce is draining the battery,
Or the battery is shot and killing it's self.

If you show a full 12 volt drain on the volt meter,
Then you have an issue with the vehicle.
If you DO NOT show a full 12 volt drain, then the battery is shot.
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Unread 09-23-2011, 10:38 AM   #7
alljagged24
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I found this very frustrating so I just walked away, I'm over that and ready to fix it, to test the solenoid do I ohm the 2 large terminals with no power
And if I get 0 resistance it is open, is this correct?
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fresh 258 .030 over comp cam ,clifford intake and header , holley 390 soa with procomp 2.5 in lift springs,2.5 in lift perches, d30 with detroit true trac, ford 8.8 performance limited slip 4.10 gears , 37 in iroks, custom bumpers and recovery points, super lined inside , no rust , fresh flat black paint, tested at trucksgonewild!!!
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Unread 09-23-2011, 10:51 AM   #8
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alljagged24 View Post
I found this very frustrating so I just walked away, I'm over that and ready to fix it, to test the solenoid do I ohm the 2 large terminals with no power
And if I get 0 resistance it is open, is this correct?
Yes on the large terminals

Nope on the reading, If you get 0 Ohms, it's closed. Usually DVM will show something like in the Megohms like 10M or 10 meg depending upon the meter. My neter will show 0.L m for overload or infinite resistance.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
Actually, this is sounding suspicously like another bad Optima battery...

...

The I would remove negative battery cable from battery, and put your volt meter between battery terminal and cable to see if the vehilce is draining the battery,
Or the battery is shot and killing it's self.

If you show a full 12 volt drain on the volt meter,
Then you have an issue with the vehicle.
If you DO NOT show a full 12 volt drain, then the battery is shot.
This will be a great test also.
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Unread 09-25-2011, 09:10 AM   #9
alljagged24
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There was definately a dead cell in the battery. , it was replaced for free,


I'm completely convinced there is another issue,whether it caused the battery issue , I don't know,

I will know as soon as I walk out in the shop and put a new solenoid on if there is another issue or not, thanks for the help
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fresh 258 .030 over comp cam ,clifford intake and header , holley 390 soa with procomp 2.5 in lift springs,2.5 in lift perches, d30 with detroit true trac, ford 8.8 performance limited slip 4.10 gears , 37 in iroks, custom bumpers and recovery points, super lined inside , no rust , fresh flat black paint, tested at trucksgonewild!!!
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Unread 09-25-2011, 09:55 AM   #10
alljagged24
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Thanks again ,I put a wrench on one of the terminals of the solenoid after testing it and it was stuck bc I heard a loud internal click as it released,I'm replacing it regardless, thanks guys!
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fresh 258 .030 over comp cam ,clifford intake and header , holley 390 soa with procomp 2.5 in lift springs,2.5 in lift perches, d30 with detroit true trac, ford 8.8 performance limited slip 4.10 gears , 37 in iroks, custom bumpers and recovery points, super lined inside , no rust , fresh flat black paint, tested at trucksgonewild!!!
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Unread 09-25-2011, 06:55 PM   #11
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alljagged24 View Post
Thanks again ,I put a wrench on one of the terminals of the solenoid after testing it and it was stuck bc I heard a loud internal click as it released,I'm replacing it regardless, thanks guys!
You were lucky it was stuck and made a noise. It should not make any noise doing that.
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