A few weeks ago, I left my key in the run position over night. The battery was drained the next morning. I left on vacation for two weeks and have to let the jeep set. I now have time to work in it again. So, I charges the battery and try to fire it up. It turns over but till won't start. I'm got fuel and air just no spark.??? plugs, wires, cap, and coil are less than six month old. Help?
Body lifts are like push-up bras, they look nice but are just an illusion.
A 'Quirk' of Jeep/Motorcraft ignitions is when you leave the key switch in the 'Run' position WITHOUT the engine running,
It overheats and kills the module and sometimes the coil.
Look on the bottom/back side of the passenger fender (under washer tank) as see if there is a 'Ooze' running out of your module...
If so, then the module is fried.
If you want to go into full scale testing of your module/ignition,
1. Whip out a 'Test Light' with a BULB, not the LED version (about $6 at the parts store, looks like an Ice Pick with a bulb in the handle and a wire coming out of the handle).
2. Connect the test light 'Wire' to the battery NEGATIVE terminal so you have a solid testing 'Ground'.
3. Remove the coil connector from the ignition coil.
4. Use the 'Ice Pick' end to Probe the 'Red' wire terminal of the coil connector.
Have someone turn the key switch to 'Run', you should have a 'Dim' light.
*IF* you DO NOT have a 'Dim' Light, the problem is with the Ignition Fuse, Ignition Switch, Factory Tach, or Bulk Head Connector in most cases.
5. Have someone turn the key switch to 'Start' and you should have a bright light.
CAUTION! THE ENGINE WILL CRANK, SO BE CLEAR OF THE FAN/BELTS!
*IF* You DO NOT have a 'Bright Light' in the 'Start Position' of the key switch while the engine is cranking,
Then small 'Red' wire from the 'I' terminal on the Starter Relay to the Ignition Coil has given up.
6. Remove the 'Wire' from the test light, connect it to the POSITIVE battery terminal.
7. Probe the Coil Connector 'Green' wire.
You should get a 'Bright Light'.
*IF* you DO NOT get a bright light, the 'Green' wire from coil connector to Ignition Module has given up,
The 'Black' Wire from Module to Distributor isn't 'Grounding' like it should.
8. Probe the 'Green' wire connection at the Coil Connector and have the engine 'CRANK' again.
The light should 'FLASH'.
If it does NOT Flash, you have a bad module, bad trigger in the distributor, something like that.
99 times out of 100, it's the module not working.
and just real quickly visually inspect the coil to see if the top is bulged out/cracked/ leaking oil.
Last time I did that it blew the coil up.
Hammer's dead right but you may be able to just look at the coil w/o even opening the tool box.
If it's good TO you, it's gotta be good FOR you....
I'd hit a yard and grab two different motorcraft modules and a coil,and swap em' in one at a time till you start. You'll need the parts anyway,and they are so easy to swap in for troubleshooting.In this particular case,shotgun troubleshooting (throwing parts at it) will take about as long as proper troubleshooting, and you'll need the part anyhow. At least you know what happened to your to keep it simple and cheap