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Unread 10-25-2013, 03:00 PM   #16
Misterzingle
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1986 CJ7 
 
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Hooked it up, nothing. Does this mean the body ground is bad?

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Unread 10-25-2013, 03:35 PM   #17
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misterzingle
Hooked it up, nothing. Does this mean the body ground is bad?
No, but it needed ruled out.
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Unread 10-25-2013, 03:36 PM   #18
Misterzingle
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I just realized that it was step 7 in the diagnostic check. It says the green wire isn't making the connection. There is an aftermarket auto meter (rpm) spliced into the green wire. The tape was a little wet, but that shouldn't affect anything.

I'm lost
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Unread 10-25-2013, 04:35 PM   #19
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misterzingle
I just realized that it was step 7 in the diagnostic check. It says the green wire isn't making the connection. There is an aftermarket auto meter (rpm) spliced into the green wire. The tape was a little wet, but that shouldn't affect anything. I'm lost
If the green wire on the coil doesn't flash your test light while your trying to start your ICM is what makes it pulse. If test light is on all the time your ICM is not operating properly. Al be it its bad, has no input on the purple and orange wires comming from distributor, or no power to module. If its off check for why no power is on the plus of the coil. Wire wrapped together and taped is always a bad connection waiting to happen.
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Unread 10-28-2013, 02:00 PM   #20
Misterzingle
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Add a distributor cap, and still nothing
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Unread 10-28-2013, 02:06 PM   #21
LumpyGrits
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misterzingle View Post
I just realized that it was step 7 in the diagnostic check. It says the green wire isn't making the connection. There is an aftermarket auto meter (rpm) spliced into the green wire. The tape was a little wet, but that shouldn't affect anything.

I'm lost
IF, it's just twisted wires, with OUT a soldered or crimped connector. That type of so-called connection very well could show as an open circuit.
DON'T USE JUST TWISTED WIRE FOR SPLICES!
LG
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Unread 10-29-2013, 12:01 AM   #22
BagusJeep
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You need to take a step back and look again at the hook up of your ICM.

I agree splices are where you get a lot of these sudden issues but you need to unplug your ICM module and have a look at what you have on the plugs coming in from the harness.

The test light is invaluable but you also need a multimeter to check the sensor.

On the 2 pin plug do you have battery voltage on the Red wire in Run and Start and on the White wire in Start only? This is the power to your module.

On the 4 pin plug have you got a ground in your Black wire? This wire runs back to the dizzie and grounds through there and is often the issue. The module does NOT ground through the case.

The green wire goes out to the coil -ve. Check it is elctrically continuous.

That leaves the two sensor wires, purple and orange if I recall, you should have 500-750 ohm resistance between those wires. If you are Nutterring make sure you have this level of resistance and have not switched the wires over, it will start switched but backfire immediately.

If all that is correct it SHOULD work. I have had shorting plugs, wonky earths and once a burned module.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 04:08 PM   #23
Misterzingle
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If the green wire isn't electrically continuous, what would you recommend.

Also, is this aftermarket? What is it called? Where can I get one? The threads are spent.

image-3430107648.jpg

The sliver part
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Unread 10-31-2013, 02:48 PM   #24
Misterzingle
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The black wire going from the the ignition module to the distributor which is supposed to be grounded, has power. Ecm?
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Unread 10-31-2013, 09:19 PM   #25
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If the green wire is not continuous from the module to the coil negative post you will not be switching the coil on and off. You need to find the break in the wire and repair it or run a new wire from the plug up to the coil (preferably in light green so the next owner in 30 years does not swear about the PO)

If you have voltage on that black wire you have a short somewhere. One way you can fix it is to clip the wire near the plug and join on and run a ground wire back to a grounding point. Some posters do this anyway to increase the reliability of that ground. The distributor does not need to be grounded by that wire for the ignition to work per se.
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Unread 11-01-2013, 07:19 AM   #26
Misterzingle
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I grounded that wire. What's odd is in the schematics, it shows that the black wire from the ignition module and the distributor are supposed to both go to complete and separate grounds. I'm not sure if this was a fix, or the schematics were wrong, but I grounded that wire and BAM! she turned on.
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Unread 11-01-2013, 10:12 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Misterzingle View Post
I have an 86 cj7. It has a weber carb, and a new motor(258). I have replaced the distributor, the distributor button, the ignition coil, and the ignition module.

A week and a half ago I got in my jeep and might not have let it warm up ad long as I should have. She made it around a mile before she shut off going down the road. Once she stopped, she would only turn over. I have tested for spark and have gotten nothing.

I started doing the nutter bypass, but stopped after splicing the wires because I started to reAd that it was for the original Carter carb. Thoughts on if this would work?

Also, since I have started fixing her, or throwing my money down the drain, I've noticed my radio won't turn on. That was until I was messing with my fuses and tested my lights. I realized that the rAdio now only works when the headlight dimmer is on.

The fuel pump is working. Anything else that will help with a diagnosis, please let me know.

I appreciate all the help.
You have ground issues. Among other things. If the dimmer switch controls the radio, there is something WEIRD going on...

I can give you instructions to find the ISSUE with the ignition without pissing away money on parts (Actually find the bad component) but the other issues would take time and some very specific testing you would have to do and respond to me what you found...
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Unread 11-02-2013, 09:41 AM   #28
Misterzingle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer
You have ground issues. Among other things. If the dimmer switch controls the radio, there is something WEIRD going on... I can give you instructions to find the ISSUE with the ignition without pissing away money on parts (Actually find the bad component) but the other issues would take time and some very specific testing you would have to do and respond to me what you found...
Yeah, I figured out both with the help of a more experienced mechanic. The radio was plugged into the wrong fuse, so it was messing up.

I do appreciate the help.
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