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Unread 05-21-2003, 09:30 PM   #1
MudLover
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New Valve Cover

Well, I finally got my new aluminum valve cover today. Does anyone have any tips as to installing them? Any pointers would help a lot.

Thanks,
Marc

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Unread 05-22-2003, 05:04 PM   #2
jadams68
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Well first off let's talk tools:

a) 5/16 x 18 bottom tap (must be bottom tap)
b) High temp RTV
c) A drill
d) razor blade or gasket scraper.
e) Floor jack
f) Hex sockets
g) Socket wrench extension.


- Jack up the tranny about 2"-3" so that the back of your engine tilts more straight, this will allow you to reach the back bolt.

- First remove the old plastic cover.

- Take razor or scraper and get all the crud, old gasket, etc off of the top of the head and clean it well.

- Check the bolt holes on the passenger and driver's side to make sure they are threaded and your new bolts fit.

- If some didn't fit, you'll need to drill the holes about 1/2" deeper and then tap the holes with the bottom tap.

- Should only have to tap driver's side on most 258s.

- Put the gasket and cover on and dry fit it... make sure all the
holes line up.

- Remove gasket and cover. Place a thin amount of RTV all around the top of the head.

- Place gasket on top. (some guys tell you to RTV top of gasket, but don't, the gasket will slide and bulge out the sides when you tighten it down)

- Place cover and bolt down. I recommend you do the little bolt in the back first.

- Tighten the bolts around the head, making sure the gasket doesn't slide out and is evenly spaced around the head.

- Put CCV, PCV and oil cap on.

- Crank engine, rev it a few times, check for leaks.

- Let it set up an hour or so... Take it for a cruise and throttle it!

- Look for leaks... done deal.

Questions, email me jadams68@verizon.net
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Unread 05-22-2003, 08:56 PM   #3
MudLover
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You're the man! Thanks a lot. If I run into any problems I'll probably IM you... worked well in the past.

Thanks bud,
Marc
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Unread 05-23-2003, 01:24 PM   #4
sampson9dk
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I had to drill and tap a couple holes on my 85 CJ to install the new valve cover. (Two holes on the drivers side I think. I didnt drill far and antifreeze came popping out. Not a big deal...it seals up when you install the new cover but be aware that you might drill through to the water port in the head . Its not too far down there
Dave K
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Unread 05-23-2003, 01:36 PM   #5
jadams68
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Woa woa!!
Drilling to far into the water jacket is a bad thing and should not be understated.

Mudlover, you basically want to measure the thickness of the valve cover and the gasket and subtract the combination of those two from the length of the bolt. It's somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2".

Another tip, put a round magnet from Radioshack (looks like a flat washer) around the drill bit when you drill to catch the metal filings from going into your head.

Also, when you tap the holes, use Tap Oil. It smells like *****, literally it does, but it will prevent you from snapping the tap off in the hole.
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Unread 05-23-2003, 04:20 PM   #6
Curly
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Solid instructions. Personally I bought the westside performance aluminium vavle cover. Requires no drilling and no gasket, rtv only. Worked like a champ for me no leaks in two years, touch wood.
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Unread 05-23-2003, 07:07 PM   #7
jadams68
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That's actually interesting that Curly brought that product up.
Alot of people have been telling me about the no-drill metal covers.

The only reason the 4wd, quadratec, etc valve covers need any drilling at all is because the do away with the stock, plastic valve cover bolts on the driver's side.

Personally, I'd rather not drill, but I can't complain with the results I've had.
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Unread 05-24-2003, 01:02 AM   #8
sampson9dk
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Dont get me wrong. I didnt intentionally drill into the water jacket and I dont recommend it. Im just saying thast there isnt much material there, look out for it (so you dont get antifreeze in the eye), and if it happens it isnt the end of the world (so dont look for a whole new head because of 2 stupid holes). RTV or silicone tape will patch it. If there is a "no drill" option I wish i had heard about it and I recommend you return yours for that one.
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Unread 05-24-2003, 05:57 AM   #9
MudLover
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Well, I've now broken 2 tap bits in this head. I got the first one out without a problem. But this second one is kinda stuck. I think all I need to do is spend a little more time on it.

Thanks for all the help,
Marc
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Unread 05-24-2003, 03:43 PM   #10
MudLover
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Okay, I spent more time on the stuck tap bit.... it's not going anywhere. Anyone know how to get it out? I've tried needle nose pliers and a drill. I'm afraid to really "use" the drill because the tap bit is harder than the head, so it'll skip off the bit and make the hole in the head bigger. Somebody please help me!!!

Thanks,
Marc
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Unread 05-24-2003, 05:57 PM   #11
jadams68
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Marc, did you put tap oil in the hole prior to tapping it?
Very odd that your broke 2 taps, I mean I broke one 2 weeks ago doing a valve cover job, but two..wow.

Anyway, you need to drill it out, plain and simple and extract the pieces. Once you do that, just put tap oil in and "slowly" turn the tap until it stops, don't force it! <-- you obviously know that now i'm sure.

Let me know if i can help.
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Unread 05-24-2003, 10:08 PM   #12
MudLover
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Thats what I was afraid of. Oh well, guess I'll have to be really carefull this time. If the hole in the head gets bigger due to the drilling, what can I do? I hate being a clutz.

Thanks for all the help,
Marc
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Unread 05-25-2003, 06:18 AM   #13
jadams68
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You can run out to a local parts store and pick up things called Helicoils (sp?). They go in the enlarged hole and provide a threading surface for your bolts.
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