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Unread 01-12-2010, 10:43 AM   #31
Totallymetal
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2007 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshuawcolvey View Post
Are the yj leafs the same width as the cj?
Rears are the same width (2.5 in), but the fronts are CJ (2 in), YJ (2.5).

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Unread 01-12-2010, 10:53 AM   #32
Jeepican
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1976 CJ5 
 
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What exactly will you be using this for? Offroad, mud, mall crawler???
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1976 CJ5 - 232 I6, MC2100, YJ Booster, Front disc conv, 2.5" BDS, 1" Body Lift, .5" lift Daystar Shackles, 33 x 10.50 BF KM2, Twin Stick
[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/slow-76-cj5-rebuild-1118617"][COLOR="blue"]My Build Thread[/COLOR][/URL]

"Oh, you're just full of fun today, aren't you? Why don't we go up to the old people's home and wax the steps?"
-Barney Fife-
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Unread 01-12-2010, 10:58 AM   #33
joshuawcolvey
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well i do not do alot of crawling at all, maby a trail now and then nothing major just a weekend toy that look decent. maby the occasion trip to work about 7 miles on ice and snow, only if i need to tho.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 11:14 AM   #34
Jeepican
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This is just me then....(as I am still a newb)
1) If that is a cj7 frame I would ditch the Cj5 tub and swap in a cj7.... (You would have more room in cab) and it would fit the frame better.
2) I would DEF ditch the blocks and either weld the leafs on correctly or ditch it all together and just buy cj7 lift kit and return everything back to normal. 4" would allow for 33" tires which is plenty for mild offroading. But if you want to go bigger I would def do more research on the SOA as is it not just a simple put the leafs on top of axle. Way more involved to do it correctly and SAFELY.

3) if you do sell the cj5 tub ..... I might would consider buying that hardtop from ya!
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1976 CJ5 - 232 I6, MC2100, YJ Booster, Front disc conv, 2.5" BDS, 1" Body Lift, .5" lift Daystar Shackles, 33 x 10.50 BF KM2, Twin Stick
[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/slow-76-cj5-rebuild-1118617"][COLOR="blue"]My Build Thread[/COLOR][/URL]

"Oh, you're just full of fun today, aren't you? Why don't we go up to the old people's home and wax the steps?"
-Barney Fife-
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Unread 01-12-2010, 11:18 AM   #35
Jeepican
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Ah just realized that its not the frame being cj7....either way.... i would revert back to cj5 or research and do it correctly
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1976 CJ5 - 232 I6, MC2100, YJ Booster, Front disc conv, 2.5" BDS, 1" Body Lift, .5" lift Daystar Shackles, 33 x 10.50 BF KM2, Twin Stick
[URL="http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/slow-76-cj5-rebuild-1118617"][COLOR="blue"]My Build Thread[/COLOR][/URL]

"Oh, you're just full of fun today, aren't you? Why don't we go up to the old people's home and wax the steps?"
-Barney Fife-
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Unread 01-12-2010, 11:23 AM   #36
joshuawcolvey
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lol yeah its a 5 and 5 frame, but i think extended wheelbase, but i cannot find the dims on a 5 and 7 wheelbase to tell. I like it big and i do not drive it everyday so i think im gonna stay bigger and do this
Quote:
sorry use a yj lift kit 6 inches, 5.5 spring perches for 5.5 inches (soa) then use 1-1/4 shackles for a total of 12.75 of lift. without any bodu lift will be almost what i have now, only correct lol.. I know i will have to use the yj perches. Are the yj leafs the same width as the cj?
worst case ill have to make a set of rear shackles but i can do that easly..

Last edited by joshuawcolvey; 01-12-2010 at 12:02 PM..
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Unread 01-12-2010, 11:24 AM   #37
joshuawcolvey
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but can anyone tell me how to determin if the leafs i have in the rear ore cj5 or cj7, b/c liekt he pictured earlier it looks to be stock front mounting location but not the rear?
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Unread 01-12-2010, 12:01 PM   #38
joshuawcolvey
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upon futher inspection today in the light the wheel base seems to be about 92.5 or so almost the 93.5 for the stock cj7 wheelbase. Now with that being said they more than likely are using cj7 springs fron and rear. if i go and use a yk kiti will be keeping approx teh same lenght as it is not the 93.4 for the yj wheelbase...


Quote:
Originally Posted by joshuawcolvey View Post
also i am almost 100 percent sure the wheelbase has been extended to a cj7, so how would i determin this so i could get the right lift if i did order one?. it looks like a pacer was added to the back of the frame were the leafs mount on, it is dark but a close measurement shows about 95-96 inches fron center of hub to center of hub


Last edited by joshuawcolvey; 01-12-2010 at 12:39 PM..
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Unread 01-12-2010, 06:48 PM   #39
SecretSquirrel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshuawcolvey View Post
upon futher inspection today in the light the wheel base seems to be about 92.5 or so almost the 93.5 for the stock cj7 wheelbase. Now with that being said they more than likely are using cj7 springs fron and rear. if i go and use a yk kiti will be keeping approx teh same lenght as it is not the 93.4 for the yj wheelbase...
From what I am seeing, and again it is hard to tell looking at the pictures posted, I am thinking you have stock front springs and rear springs off something besides a CJ.

It looks like the front spring hanger for the rear spring is the stock piece in the stock location, and a longer spring, with the spring bolt possibly offset to the back was installed which would lengthen the wheelbase and require the use of the frame extension.

A few post back you say that you are looking for 12.75 inches of lift, but I have to say that is a ton. I'm guessing you are around 8" inches of suspension lift now. Which is stock springs (front) + 3" block SOA, and again this doesn't take the body lift and cut fenders into account.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 06:51 PM   #40
SecretSquirrel
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FYI the rear spring on my CJ7 is approximately 44.5 inches between the two spring eyes.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 06:51 PM   #41
joshuawcolvey
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true it has from what i can tell but i ahve not measured, the SOA and that about 5.5 from what i read, about what looks like 4 inch spacers or blocks and 4 inch body so 9.5 suspenson and 4" of body. I will measure tomorow and take some more pictures.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 06:51 PM   #42
Elkhound
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Back to yoiur question about blocks in the front. They are very bad the front takes all the pressures of steering you vehicle and also most of the breaking stress. When you lift with blocks you are relying on 4 u bolts that are much longer than stock. If you hit a obstruction in the trail or god forbid the highway those weaker u bolts will snap and your frontend could be torn out from under your vehicle. The blocks become a weak point in your suspension. They are ok in the rear because you don't steer with it and because of the design of the breaking, the front does most of the work when making you stop. I would definatly remove those and you need to do a highsteer of some sort If it was my project I would be looking for a scout rear dana 44 and a wagoneer front dana 44 unless you can find a waggy with a centered dif since most had offset I went with scout rear. These axles will net you 1.5" wider each side than your wide track running gear. You gain the strength of the dana 44 and also a littlle much needed stability, on a jeep this size would be a good thing. If you aren't goin to drive it on the road use 3/4 ton stuff. Your tire size is definaly a limiting factor. If you wheel that jeep with the 30 and those tires it will fail and if the rear hasn't been upgraded to one piece axles you will expirence a failure there too. This can be dangerous on many levels. Because the AMC 20 has 2 piece axles(which means the hub is pressed on and held in place with a washer and nut) if you are lucky you will just strip the splines in the hub and you won't be able to move because the broken hub becomes the wheel with the least traction and the spider gears will transfer the drive to the broken side. But if you are one of those unlucky ones the axle its self will break at the point where it is knecked down and your tire will fly off potentially doing damage to your jeep and other innocent bystanders. With the hight you want to keep this jeep I would really urge you to look into chaging your axles to a stroger set up. Also fix that steering with the angles of your steering componants it must have terrible bump steer! that is one reson your jeep is all over the road plus there is no way you can turn as tight as it should even adding a tie rod flip and drop steering arm would help but not fix all of your bump steer. This thing looks like a canidate for scary steering .com. Look at that site there is much worse out there. You also must fix that spacer in the back. I keep wondering if the P.O. used ford rear springs I have heard they move the axle back up to 7" or so depending on how they are set up they give you a longer spring for better droop, but I don't think that spacer is worth the benifits of the longer spring. I have heard of people doing this to 7's but not sure there is enough room for it to be done on a cj5. Well that being said I'm not trying to rain on your parade this is a very do-able project but will take some work and research but in the end it will be pretty cool. If it were me I would scrap most of the suspension and runing gear your motor and trans aren't bad and you should have a dana 300 transfer case. If you do a complete re-build of the suspension it will let you make the running gear as strong as the rest of your jeep. It should be a fun project and I am lookin foward to seeing what you do with it
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Unread 01-12-2010, 06:52 PM   #43
joshuawcolvey
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is that with weight on it or with no weight on it? ie on the vehicle or off.
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Unread 01-12-2010, 06:56 PM   #44
SecretSquirrel
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That is on the jeep, fully loaded ready to go. But keep in mind it aint an exact measurement because it is dark and cold outside
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Unread 01-12-2010, 07:01 PM   #45
joshuawcolvey
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ok i meansuresd on mine front and rear and it is just a hair over 44 front and rear from eye to eye holes.
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