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Unread 10-05-2003, 07:34 PM   #1
Aphelion79
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New Jeep Owner - Help Needed

Hello all!

Great to find such a resource here... so excuse me if I ask a lot of stupid questions, lol...

First I need to ask a question that is important for me getting my CJ7 to be safe to drive (as I only like flying down the road in a streight line, lol)

There is qute a bit of play in my steering system... it looks as if everything (tie rod ends etc) are in rather perfect condition... but it appears the play is comming from the steering box itself... i see a screw on top of the box that is accessable from the top of the vehicle between the front bumper and the grill... is this something to adjust the box? Any ideas what I could do to fix this play please do reply!

----------------------------------------------

Anyway, off from the important stuff I have no idea what the transmission or anything is on this jeep, if someone could please help me research this I'd appreciate it! It was a one owner vehicle bought with 00 miles in 1982 and the only additions he had done to it were door steps and (recently) bigger tires... everything else on this Jeep is STOCK...

1982 CJ7
4 Speed 4 Cyl. (Guessing 2.5 liter?)

Other than that I have no idea about anything on this jeep, lol...

And being new to 4-wheel drive systems as well, could someone explain the way the differentials etc would work on this vehicle? I understand Limited Slip, locking diffs... etc... but what would I specifically have on this jeep? Just little things like that if anyone could give me some information I'd be happy... but again what i really need to know is the problem with the steering so try to help me with that first! lol

(P.S. please no one ask " why do u have a jeep if i know nothing about it?" lol...)

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Unread 10-05-2003, 07:49 PM   #2
fuzz401
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1978 CJ7 
 
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the steering can be adj. by that screw BUT turn a little drive it need more turn it a little more do it is small amounts or you could wipe out the box compleatly

the 4 cyl. is a gm i think
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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 10-05-2003, 07:51 PM   #3
shocka59
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I had the same problem and it was that the bracket that was holding the box to the frame was loose. I just went ahead and bought a heavy duty bracket and new hardware and it felt like brand new.
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Unread 10-05-2003, 07:55 PM   #4
Aphelion79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz401
the steering can be adj. by that screw BUT turn a little drive it need more turn it a little more do it is small amounts or you could wipe out the box compleatly

the 4 cyl. is a gm i think

Okay, can you explain how the screw works? lol I.E. What does turning it right accomplish? (Possibly mechanical explanation if you know that much about it... EDIT: I could trial and error but the only reason I asked was for a mechanical explanation )

And I looked up my VIN

GM, 4 Cyl, 151 CID

4 Speed, Manual Transmission, Floor Shift, Part Time Transfer Case

Last edited by Aphelion79; 10-05-2003 at 08:00 PM..
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Unread 10-05-2003, 07:59 PM   #5
Aphelion79
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Also a question for those who know about replacing Body Parts and have experience with JC Whitney...

I'm looking to replace my horribly rusted out front window (the only thing that has anything but standard surface rust...) I see one on thier site... is this a good buy or are thier parts low quality steel? (which I've read on this forum elsewhere and decided to ask bluntly )


Anyway, thanks a lot for your help this far... now if anyone wants to give the time to explain about the drivetrain I'd be glad to cure my curiosity!
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Unread 10-05-2003, 08:28 PM   #6
fuzz401
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1978 CJ7 
 
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by turning the screw it removes the back lash from the worm gear in the steering box turn it too much and it will force the gears together to much and cause more wear that will wipe them out
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1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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Unread 10-05-2003, 09:01 PM   #7
kjc2260
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I'll try to answer some of your questions: You probably have a T-4 tranny ( correct me if I'm wrong, guys ) a Dana 300 t/case, an AMC 20 rear, and a Dana 30 front. As for the windshield frame, I've always had good luck ordering from 4WD Hardware and Quadratec. As for J.C. Whitney, I personally would steer away from them unless it's a brand name part. I would check all of the things alresdy posted about your steering problem but also check your steering shaft ( firewall to steering box ) for play as these are known to go bad on CJ's. Hope this helps and good luck.
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Unread 10-05-2003, 09:17 PM   #8
Aphelion79
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Well... get some sleep tonight, then tomorrow I'll let ya guys know how things went...!
Thanks for the info, and please anyone correct him if he's wrong

(That, an an explanation on how exactly the differential works, would be nice too )
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Unread 10-05-2003, 09:20 PM   #9
Aphelion79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz401
by turning the screw it removes the back lash from the worm gear in the steering box turn it too much and it will force the gears together to much and cause more wear that will wipe them out
And if anyone would like to reply how much is a "little bit"... quarter turn? whole turn?
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Unread 10-05-2003, 11:36 PM   #10
only in a jeep cj
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Congrats on being a new Jeep owner! The 82 is a good year. While I would own any year of CJ, I like the 82 to 86 best.
How many miles are on it now? The box could be worn out OR, you are not familiar with the "feel" of a CJ....this happens when folks come over from an import car with a lot of caster in the steering. The "adjusting screw" is for setting up the box initially and an inch lb torque wrench is used to set the preload or drag. This is done with the box off the Jeep and no other load being present such as tierods, wheels, etc. Before I knew this, I tried the self adjustment on a box that the pitman arm could be moved by hand, and only wore out the box faster. I recommend removing the old unit and using it as the core on a new/rebuilt one from an autoparts store. Tie rods good?.....did you inspect them while under load.....meaning the wheel going back and forth via a second set of hands? A bad one will drop down a bit from while changing direction, but look good while sitting still. Also, as said, there is the 2 joints in the steering shaft to check.
4 speed: if it has a straight shift stick, it's a T-176, If its curved and a standard H pattern, it's a T-4, If reverse is found by pushing down on the spring loaded stick and moving up and to the left, its an SR-4.
Drivetrain, A double letter code on the side of the diff housing will indicate a limited factory slip in the Model 20 rear end.
http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/amc20.html
Differential:4 small gears, all have the teeth facing in toward each other on a standard X/Y plane. The 2 on the X plane (left and right) are meshed with the two on the Y plane in such a way that the upper gear is meshed with both the left and right ones (on the axles) as is the lower gear.....looking straight on, it forms a box shape. There is a large pin or shaft the runs through the upper and lower gears (the y plane) so if one axle gear spins in one direction, the other gear will spin in the opposite...by way of the connecting upper and lower gears spinning on the shaft. Now all of this is in a housing called a carrier. all of this rotates about the X plane by the large ring gear (on the Z plane), turned from a 90 degree gear called the pinion. All this movement in the 4 smaller gears, allow for the outer wheel to take a longer path then the inner wheel in a turn.
....anyone got a link for him to see all this? This is like doing math over the phone!
Pic of limited slip diff. http://www.billzilla.org/trdlsd2.jpg
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Unread 10-06-2003, 09:11 AM   #11
Aphelion79
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There are 133000+ miles on it right now (dont know exact number off hand...)

What you said about the box ... theres an arm on the lower part of it that points towards the rear of the vehicle, this DOES drop down and 'clunk' when the steering wheel is turned... im guessing this is that "Pitman Arm" you were talking about? both me being - and having a second set of hands -, neither of us could notice any play in the tie rod ends at all... so the box seems to be the culprit! Thanks for warning about the steering box before I go out there and try to yank around on it... btw, =)

Alright thanks greatly guys! Off to go repack the RF wheel bearing and get this baby licensed! (That and i need a new PVC valve grommet and I need to adjust my valves, one is ticking...) I don't suppose anyone would have the info on the valve adjustments off hand, would they?
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Unread 10-07-2003, 02:01 PM   #12
aviator
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There's not any adjustment on the valves in a Jeep head. If you have one ticking, it could be a lifter not pumped all the way up. Whats the oil pressure read at idle? If it's below 7lbs, it's a lifter. 8lbs+ then I would say you have a lifter with crud in it - either way, I would almost guarantee that you are hearing a ticking lifter.

If your jeep ended up with an older style head on it (as mine did) with a rocker shaft instead of individual rocker arms, the rocker arms and/or shaft may be worn out, causing the arm to "wobble" on the shaft and tick, but I would check the lifters first.
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Unread 10-07-2003, 06:09 PM   #13
Aphelion79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aviator
There's not any adjustment on the valves in a Jeep head. If you have one ticking, it could be a lifter not pumped all the way up. Whats the oil pressure read at idle? If it's below 7lbs, it's a lifter. 8lbs+ then I would say you have a lifter with crud in it - either way, I would almost guarantee that you are hearing a ticking lifter.

If your jeep ended up with an older style head on it (as mine did) with a rocker shaft instead of individual rocker arms, the rocker arms and/or shaft may be worn out, causing the arm to "wobble" on the shaft and tick, but I would check the lifters first.
Actually I get about 18~ on the oil pressure at idle... (no tach so I can't say much about what RPM etc stuff is at) on a decent high end rpm (one I don't think I'd go over for more than a few seconds) oil pressure is around 28~ which seems very odd... Its a 1982 so who knows what could have gone wrong...
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Unread 10-07-2003, 07:24 PM   #14
aviator
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You can use a stethiscope (or a piece of wooden dowel) to pinpoint the tick, that will help you figure out exactly what part of the engine is ticking, this works great.

As far as the oil pressure, I'd say you're in good shape, though it is a little low. Is this oil pressure with the engine at operating temp or when it's cold?

Should be a little higher when it's cold.

If you can pinpoint the ticking sound, that will help a lot in diagnosing the problem.

If you have to replace lifters, be sure to get a lifter and cam kit. Don't install new lifters on an old cam!!! You'll wear the both out really quickly and end up doing it again.
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