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03-09-2008, 07:25 PM
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#16
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kenosha, WI
Posts: 311
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There is no binding in the linkage and the bellcrank tube seems to allow free travel. I have a 4 inch lift but the vehicle was running and shifting for a while after I had the lift. It has only been since the motor and clutch were done that this issue arose.    what is going on with my clutch!!!!!!!??
Guys, I really do appreciate all of your input and help here. Sorry for voicing my frustrations in such a manner. I am not a mechanic and so far I have been doing ok on this jeep. I have wired the whole thing tip to toe, new fuel system tank to carb, new carb, new water pump, new alt, dizzy, alum rad with fan, removed and replaced motor. Have I just gotten greedy here and tried to do too much on the jeep?
Mike
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03-10-2008, 02:41 PM
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#17
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Raeford, NC
Posts: 122
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I dont think youre giving yourself much credit here....your list of accomplishments is great....Since you were not the one who installed the clutch, and pp...and the people who did, and by the way, charged you for it '' forgot'' to install the throwout bearing...and the jeep had no linkage issues prior.......unfortunately I would pull the clutch, check part #s and reinstall yourself...So far you give no reason to believe you cant do that...
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03-10-2008, 03:15 PM
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#18
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kenosha, WI
Posts: 311
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I talked to some guys at work and I have a theory. I know it is common knowledge that the 304 and 360 motors are almost identical. One of the differences however is the flywheel, its my understanding that you need a 360 flywheel and a 304 flywheel wont work. If the guys that did the motor and clutch did not aknowledge that difference and used the 304 flywheel from the 304 core that I sent them and then used a clutch disk for a 360 (or vice versa) that it might be a problem. Could my problem be a result of either not using a 360 flywheel or clutch plate?
Mike
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03-10-2008, 03:18 PM
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#19
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kenosha, WI
Posts: 311
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FYI, same clutch type, didnt want to change things and get too complex...guess it didnt work out. How hard is it to drop the tranny and get the clutch out of the bell housing? I have never done that before.
Mike
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03-10-2008, 03:56 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atom73
FYI, same clutch type, didnt want to change things and get too complex...guess it didnt work out. How hard is it to drop the tranny and get the clutch out of the bell housing? I have never done that before.
Mike
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Well, it isn't too bad to do. I would buy or borrow a tranny jack.
1) set blocks around tires so it doesn't roll, ebrake on.
2) remove both front and rear driveshafts
3) You want the motor to remain in the same position, so either jack up the back part of the motor with a wood block, but not sure if you have a plate under the oil pan. I usually will use a rachet strap around the front of the motor tied into the frame to keep movement minimal.
4) Two options depending on lift and tire size, the skid plate, I am tall enough with SOA and 35's to slide the tranny/t-case and skidplate as one unit out under the Jeep, if not, you might be able to undo the skid plate bolts and then place the tranny jack under the skidplate to lower it and then slide it out after it is on the floor.
5) place your tranny in neutral
6) Remove all clutch linkage to the shiftfork, spring, etc
7) remove tcase lever and shifter plate, usually stuff a shirt or rag over the top of the tranny plate so no bolts fall in it. remove reverse connection to tranny and and 4wd wire and the speedometer cable from t-case.
8) remove starter
9) undo bell housing bolts to motor, remember the order as they are different sizes.
10) with the bellhousing bolts undone and remove, place the tranny jack under the skidplate, remove all 4 or 6 bolts to it, slide under and pull the tranny back about 2 inches or so to clear the pressure plate. Lower the jack and go back if needed.
11) Take a breather and then go on to removing the pressure plate, the clutch is on the inside of the pressure plate.
Should take a first timer about 6 hours or more to do it. Just organize, plan, have all the right parts and you should be good to go.
__________________
85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
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03-10-2008, 05:52 PM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bard
Should take a first timer about 6 hours or more to do it.
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You sure? Only took me a couple of hours to go from this to complete ..... Oh that's right, your damn tub is in the way.
Hang in there Mike, It's got to be something easy. I'm guessing it's the pressure plate. Don't see how the flywheel would make a difference ... flat is flat both should have a smooth non off-set surface.
.
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03-10-2008, 06:04 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatman
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Well in my defense, I do not have helpers  How much are you paying them an hour? Bribery is illegal you know! I need a new tub, so it coming off, so who has a YJ tub for me??
Mike - it isn't that bad to do.
__________________
85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
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03-10-2008, 06:16 PM
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#23
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bard
Well in my defense, I do not have helpers  How much are you paying them an hour? Bribery is illegal you know! I need a new tub, so it coming off, so who has a YJ tub for me?? 
Mike - it isn't that bad to do.
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Sometimes I'm suprised they put up with me. Eric is always willing to jump in and help, Albert (neighbor) brings me the stuff he needs welded or worked on etc..., Alpha Pup (my son) helps with the hopes that he can have the Jeep at 16.
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03-10-2008, 06:26 PM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Rockville, Va
Posts: 2,221
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MIke, are you in a 4 wheel drive or Jeep club? They can be a great source of knowledge and help. Clubs that I've been in will get together and tackle things like your dealing with, in an evening; it's a good excuse to get together, drink and swap lies.
__________________
'81 Scrambler w/ FI 360 AMC, 33x12.50 BFG M/T's, 5" of lift, ARB'd Dana 44's F & R, Dana 300 clocked & twin sticked w/4:1, Warn XD9000i, etc...
2002 Grand Cherokee Limited, 2008 Overland Grand Cherokee, a 1976 CJ-7 in pieces and 3 more off-brand 4x4s...............
John N
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03-10-2008, 06:39 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kenosha, WI
Posts: 311
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New development
Guys, thanks for the input. Bard, thanks for the play by play too, I have to evaluate whether or not I have the facilities/tools/time to do it. My german neighbor Hartmut usually helps me wrench, I cut trees down for him (I used to be a tree climber before my current profession) and has told me that he is in for it if I want to pull the tranny.
As per previous advice I double checked the T-case to make sure it was in 2L and not N. It was in N... So I put it in 2L and started the vehicle. It now shifts into gear while running, but when I let off the clutch it does not engage. So, now I can shift into gear, only with the clutch pedal depressed, but when I let the pedal go it doesnt engage. What now?
BTW, I want to join a 4x4 club but I am in a military residency masters program and just owning the jeep has put my acedemic standing (not to mention domestic) at risk. For now, all I have is you questionable assembly of folks. 
Mike
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03-10-2008, 07:30 PM
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#26
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: The Granite State
Posts: 2,662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atom73
As per previous advice I double checked the T-case to make sure it was in 2L and not N. It was in N... So I put it in 2L and started the vehicle. It now shifts into gear while running, but when I let off the clutch it does not engage. So, now I can shift into gear, only with the clutch pedal depressed, but when I let the pedal go it doesnt engage. What now?
Mike
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Mike, any pics of your set up? I am thinking it is one of two things, but pics might help me see it. I want to see the linkage engaged and disengaged, does it whine at all, with the clutch open and running?
__________________
85' CJ7 Laredo, 383 GM, Turbo 350, NP 203. SOA, 2" frame lift, 34" TSL swampers, Dana 30 open, AMC 20 w/ detroit locker, 4:10's, 1 Piece Mosers, 35" boggers to abuse when needed.
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03-10-2008, 07:43 PM
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#27
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kenosha, WI
Posts: 311
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Bard, tomorrow I will post pics and video of the linkage and whole operation as it is working. Thanks again.
Mike
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03-11-2008, 02:43 PM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Raeford, NC
Posts: 122
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Not to insult here but???? it sounds like the t case is really in N now OR there is too much tension on the pressure plate allowing the clutch to constantly slip here.... I would double check the t case . Jack up the rearend, put it on stands, engine off, place into 3rd gear try to spin rear drive shaft by hand....
IF your t case is in 2 hi and or 4 hi for that matter and the tranny is engaged you should NOT be able to spin the driveshafts.( without turning the engine over also )... if they do spin either your adjustments are too tight or the pressure plate and or t bearing are wrong, or the splines on the actual disc are bigger than the tranny output shafts allowing it to spin without engaging the disk.
The reason I say this is becuse now you can get it in gear all of a sudden but nothing happens...As where before you were encountering resistance..this is usually the case when the t case is in N...its always easier to get into any gear clutch or no clutch... I personally think you should go back to where you started checking linkage, and/ or part numbers for the clutch set.... and to the best of my knowledge the 304 360 flywheels are interchangeable but HAVE to be rebalanced for the particular motor its going on to.
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03-11-2008, 06:57 PM
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#29
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Kenosha, WI
Posts: 311
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03-11-2008, 09:14 PM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Raeford, NC
Posts: 122
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ok bud...good video....try what i said...video 2 shows classic symptoms of being in neutral......now back to the original problem.......it looks as though you have way way too much adjustment....there shouldnt be that many threads showing on the adjuster for a new clutch.....that makes me think back to my original theory that its the wrong PN# clutch set.......( ie pressure plate , or clutch disk backwards )
more info.......IF,.... i say IF it was the right clutch set and the adjuster was where it was........you would be able to put it in any gear I mean any gear....let out and it would slip, that being said it would slip and slip and slip...but that doesnt necessarilly mean that NOTHING would happen.....do what i suggested and jack the rear end up.. just like it is and see what it does?? if the tires spin very slow, try to stop one with your hands...you should be able to( when the clutch is adjusted right and the wheels are off the ground)ok ive had a couple lagers here....get back with me....ill pm you my phone #
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