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Old 10-07-2008, 09:41 PM   #1
SpencerC
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1978 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Burton, MI
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New CJ7 owner with alot of questions

I posted earlier giving a brief run down of my situation, and while ive fixed alot of the problems, there are still a fair amount to be worked out. Ive gone through taking a bunch of pictures so you all will know exactly what im talking about now, and hopefully I can this thing back together right and start having fun!



I put alot of parts into this thing the last few weeks and even more time, its finally road worthy, well, maybe drivable is a better word, lol. The steering is TERRIBLE, it is NOT lifted but it has 31x10.50x15's on it, I just cant keep it going straight, I probably look like a drunk idiot driving down the road. Ball joints appear to be good, and alot of the "slack" appears to be in the steering box, but what do I know. Ive read the sticky, but it mainly focuses on shimming if you have lift, which I dont. The whole system seems to be leaking quite a bit, but after adding lucas ps stop leak it seems to have slowed down quite a bit, but its still leaking - the picture below shows what I mean, but I also caught that the fluid dripping (in some spots) is green, which would mean coolant, isnt the radiator drain right there?



Next issue - Starts great cold but runs crappy and falls on its face, but runs great warm but starts hard warm? Whats the deal there? New fuel pump, gas tank, and fuel filter. I could tell you all you want to know about EFI, but im clueless when it comes to carbs.

What is this black metal piece thats rusting, the one like attached to the front of the grill, the little one, im planning on paint soon and want to know what to do with it, cut it off, buy a new one, etc......



Fourth - frame damage, attached are the scariest parts, the couple big holes I figured I would just clean up and weld a patch over, but what about the back? My grandpa was the PO, and he did quite a bit of home made reinforcement in the back bumper area, and im not even sure what to do with it or what its supposed to look like. Over all does the frame look OK? This probably wont ever be a real off roader, 99% street use, no heavy bashing so I assume it should be ok, right?





Hood latches, where can I get new ones of the same style?

Marker lights(the long strip ones on the fenders and the back corners), all(orange and red) of these are cracked where can I get some new ones?

Also where can I get the chrome rings that go around the headlights? What about door handles the chrome is coming off of those too?

I know thats a freaking truckload of questions, comments, and pictures but I want to make sure im as detailed as possible to get you guys the most info to help me. If there is any other info you need please dont hesitate to ask!

Thanks for the help!

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Old 10-07-2008, 09:52 PM   #2
4XGore
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Welcome to CJ's! I'm sorry I can't answer a lot of your questions but I will try to answer what I can.
Your steering could need a steering box brace and/or heavy duty steering box bracket. You could just be getting a lot of play with the steering box twisting as you turn.
Most of the other questions I'll leave for the experts but I will give you some sites to get just about anything for a Jeep from
http://www.quadratec.com/

http://www.collinsbrosjeep.com/main.htm

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:02 PM   #3
Renegade79
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whew, that was a lot...lol. i think i can help with a few questions.

have you changed your radiator hoses yet? if its leaking by the power steering box, then its probably your lower radiator hose. i've been keeping up with your posts and if these are the same ones that have been sitting for a few years then they're probably rotted out, could possibly bust on you when driving.

that black thing on your grill, its just part of the grill. it covers up the front body mount. if you ever have to take the grill off there are 3 or 4 (can't remember right now) bolts holding on each fender, the two rods coming off the firewall, and then the bolt coming up through the cross member into the grill right under that black piece of metal. not sure why yours is black. must be a difference in model year, because mine matches my paint job.

i'd also recommend going to www.quadratec.com , www.jcwhitney.com , and www.4wd.com and ordering a free catalog from each site. i keep some in the garage, some on my coffee table, and some in the bathroom.

i think all three of those sites have replacement hinges and the marker lights you're looking for.
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:46 PM   #4
SpencerC
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Thanks for the info guys, ill check the rad hoses in the morning.

That piece of grill, what should I do with it, how would I fix something like that?

Anyone have any thoughts on the frame? I if it isnt safe or worth it, id sure like to know.
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Old 10-08-2008, 02:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpencerC View Post
Thanks for the info guys, ill check the rad hoses in the morning.

That piece of grill, what should I do with it, how would I fix something like that?

Anyone have any thoughts on the frame? I if it isnt safe or worth it, id sure like to know.

Welcome,
You will need to see how bad the leak is in the power steering, might just be a seal. Could need an alignment as well. Looks like the green drop is antifreeze, not power steering fluid.

As for the grill, leave it as is, you got other stuff the look at.

I think I counted 7 leaf springs in the rear? in that case, you either have an add a leaf or extra spring. I also think it wasn't put into the right location by the looks of it.

As for the frame, well, you really need to climb under it and give it a hammer test. That one side is rotted pretty good and you need to fix it or find a new frame. You really need to fix both sides, but more so, do a complete inspection of the frame. I have some pics how I have fixed that spot in the past by the front spring mounts, but you need to look at the rears as well. Looks like it needs it. Also appears your spring hanger bolts are not tight or just rotted off by the rear shackles.

I would really go over that frame with a fine tooth comb, do not be afraid to punch a hole in it with a hammer and screwdriver test.
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Old 10-08-2008, 03:07 AM   #6
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I don't think those are the stock springs. Looks like a military wrap there. Also the spring eye is about ready to hit the drawbar on compression. Looks like somebody reversed and shortened the shackle hangers too. Look for the recent post here about CJ frame rot. Search Ebay or Craigslist, and junkyards for a sterring box. If it's worn, any extra movement is going to pound out the seals, giving you that leak. I'd also put body mounts on your to-do list. I've seen worse CJ's (mine, lol) so don't despair!
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Old 10-08-2008, 10:50 AM   #7
SpencerC
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Ok, so if the springs arent stock, then are they at least better than stock? lol. And I have no idea what the spring eye or the drawbar are, someone want to explain? And what about the shackle hangers, is that good or bad? If I find a new steering box, how can I tell if its worn or not?

So your saying I should go under there with a hammer and beat the crap out of the frame? The front of the frame is in much better shape, no rust at all really, looks like it has some kind of undercoating on it or something, but it just came off in the back.
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Old 10-08-2008, 04:43 PM   #8
Rob55
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I would echo what has been said regarding testing the frame extensively. These things have a real tendency to rollo over if the fram breaks on the road. Your rear springs look pretty depleted, and the rear shackles are butting up against the rear drawbar which will give you a much harsher ride, and send that "shock" to the frame directly. The fluid leaks look like it could be radiator hose. It all looks repairable but it will drive you crazy to do each one at a time...if you can pull the tub and reall test the frame and get it fixed that would be a great start. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 10-08-2008, 05:36 PM   #9
SpencerC
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Im just in to far over my head with the frame, going to take it to a local place and have them look it over and see what they say about it.

The springs are shot huh? I just checked, a 100 bucks a spring huh? Thats alot after how much Ive already spent on this thing in the last few weeks.

What is the drawbar? There not hitting anything actually, pretty close but, there actually not.

It rides pretty hard, but about the same as my buddies wrangler with a 1in body lift.

Asside from the frame, which issue should I attack first?
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Old 10-09-2008, 09:16 PM   #10
Renegade79
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replacement stock springs are $100 a piece, but if you're going to replace the suspension you might as well buy a 1" or 2.5" lift. a lot of kits come with springs, urethane bushings, axle shims (if needed) and new shocks. i was lucky enough to find my 2.5inch kit used and in good condition. its a rancho heavy duty kit, so it is VERY stiff, but handles much better than the old sagging stock ones did.

i think Rob55 is referring to your trailer hitch mount by "drawbar" (i haven't heard that term before, but may very well be the correct name for it). the shackle may not be hitting while sitting, but when you hit a bump while driving your springs flatten out to absorb it and the shackle moves outward, possibly hitting the tow hitch mount.

does your buddy's wrangler also have a suspension lift on it? because a body lift only lifts the body off the frame by 1" and wouldn't affect the suspension or the ride quality.

besides the frame, it would probably be best to fix the radiator hoses and replace the steering box to fix the leak/steering problems. i was also looking at your pictures again, possibly check out the steering rods (think thats what they're called). i'm talking the one that comes from the pitman arm on the steering box to the passenger's side steering knuckle and the one that connects the passenger's and driver's side knuckles. if these are loose and move around when you grab them, it would translate into slop in your steering.
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Old 10-09-2008, 09:56 PM   #11
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I've found a ton of parts for my CJ5 on ebay under CJ or CJ5 (yours would be CJ7), Craigs List is good also. Pump some grease in your tie rod zerks and see if it tightens up your steering some, if so, replace all the tie rod ends. Another thing that makes steering sloppy is the bearing at the bottom of the steering column, fairly easy to change and cheap.
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:14 PM   #12
SpencerC
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Well, I actually accomplished a lot today, the frame is fixed! Done! I did some more hammering and it was over a 2ft section that had to be redone. Cleaned it up stitch welded the 3/16 plates on, then undercoated the whole section, and it looks good, and I must say, I feel about 5468464351 times safer going down the road in it now, haha.

Tomorrow morning Im going to adjust the steering box, to see if I can get some of the slop of as Ive check EVERYTHING else out in the front, and despite its looks, is all very solid. Any tips on this?

There is no radiator hose leak, I checked the hoses they look pretty good, but I did top off the coolant after the old cap failed a while ago and I think this is just extra after it warmed up a few times coming out of the overflow line(since there is no overflow tank). But the P/S is definitely leaking, but its kinda hard to tell where its coming from, I added lucas p/s stop leak just for the time being but it doesn't seem to be doing much yet.

I bounced up and down on the back of the jeep and the shackles dont appear to hit anything, but the springs do look pretty flat, and "not springy" lol. The goal of the project is not really to lift it or make it anything spectacular, just to restore it. Heres the story for any that missed, ill keep it brief this time I promise, lol.

Grandparents bought it new 78' drove it work at the GM plant for years, sometime in the mid to late 80's oil with graphite in it was used and it seized the motor, grandpa bought an I6 to put in but decided to rebuild the 304(to what extent is pretty much unknown). Grandparents bought a cabin up north where the jeep was moved to and kept for the up north play toy and to pull the docks out with etc. Sold the cabin 6 years ago, brought the jeep home and it sat for 5 1/2 years, grandpa died earlier this year and it somehow sparked my interest in this thing, and grandma really wanted to see it "go" (lol, her words almost exactly), so she is paying for basically everything that is NECESSARY to make it "go" anything else(ie lift, shiny things, and fun stuff) is on me. Ive put tons of time into it the last month or so and am to far in to go back, and its fun (go jeeps!). But for all intensive purposes this is more of a restoration (plus functionality) project than it is a rock crawling machine kind of project if your catching what im pitching. And personally I think its plenty high as it is (but I drive a camaro so im not exactly coming from the same background as most of you, mind you I did drive a 2500hd sierra for a while, that was a while back).

I think that stock springs (just by looking) would bring the height up a good inch over its condition right now, the back springs are almost completely flat, and well the shackles are at quite an angle.

But I just dont know what stock cj7 springs are supposed to look like so idk. Any further input is greatly appreciated!

Just thought of something else, how can I tell what the ratio is in the axels?

Sorry for the long post AGAIN, lol.
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:33 PM   #13
Fjguercio
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Congrads on your new CJ, sorry about grandpa, welcome to JeepForum.. I give this a shot with some ideas.

I would like to know what else you replaced besides the fuel pump and fuel filter?? Why no pics of the engine Bay please post some. When putting your detail please put in one spot at top, ok for little verbage with pic but better if most of the reading at top. IMO.

How many miles on the CJ and are they any major change outs of parts??

GET CJ TO RUN BETTER
I have a 1978 so you have cast iron intake and exhaust and a Ford DuarSpark Ignition. So take some pics of the top, and from both sides and maybe we can help with the running. I just posted a bunch of stuff with similar needs so here is the link. You carb could use a rebuild kit as Mike Romain posts in this link also.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj-5-wont-idle-614545/

CK OUT STEERING WITH A FRIEND
Steering work with friend....wiggle steering wheel back and forth, follow down to firewall. Look for areas and joints that have movement. DO YOU HAVE A TILT WHEEL??? THAT CAN HAVE PLAY AND CAUSE YOUR PROBLEM. Are any of the linkages loose at the fire wall or the steering box??? Does the steering box wiggle because it is loose. Then look at the steering rods between the wheeels are there any free play areas or joints.

My GUESS on steering.
You have stock Shackles and looks like the busings are gone or shot. This could cause the free back and forth steering you mention. The old shackle busing could also cause a metal/metal bang when you hit road bumps and such. Report back if your bushings are there at all. I bet this is 90% of your steering problem. I found some nice greaseable shackles with poly bushings and you can get the same one. Made a nice improvement in the bump ride and steering quality. The price went up since I got mine but that was a good upgrade. I'll put the link here to the write up. Do not replace your steering box yet. I do not think that is your problem.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj-greaseable-shakles-what-do-you-like-509407/

LEAKS...
I do not like the STOP LEAK fluids and do not use them. Wait till we ck out the other solutions before using any more of this type of stuff. Stop Leaks plug stuff up many times and could just be loose fastener or something simple. AS for your steering box with fluids on it, looks like clear fluid, antifreeze I bet. The Lower Radiator Hose is most likely Old and it right there. My Rad Hose was leaking and gumed up the steering box area the same as yours. The Clamp may just need to be repositioned or is loose or both. Common leak area and I had to play with mine new hose install 3 times or so to get it right. So lets start here.

With cold CJ take the radiator cap off and look at fluid is it clear and can you see the vertical tubes in core??? If it is rusty and more than 3 yrs old or so it will be replace in the future. For now lets get the leak stoped by cking the alignment of the hose and proper location of the hose clamp. There is a BUMP in the rad color and the eng block inlet. the hose clamp goes right behind the bump the tighen up. Antifreeze is posion for animals and it smells like candy. ONE Teaspoone will take out your dog or cat and have only like an hour to get to Vet before too late. If your hose feels spongy or you think orginal hoses they will need to go, top, Bottom, and heater hoses. WE can get this done latter after we get running better.

CLEAN ENGINE BAY, so we can see stuff and work easier.
Maybe take a pic before cleaning and then after so we can see better what is going on. Watch the sunday paper they put CArb cleaner, and ENGINE CEANER on sale for $1 all the time. With a warm, not hot, engine go the the local hand wash. Cover the alternator and Distributor cap with a plastic BAg or two and hold down with rubber bands. REmove the air cleaner and put bag over the throat of cab and use rubber bands to hold it over the throat, the round opening. Spray the Gunk Type Engine Cleaner all over the engine and tryto keep off body paint it will stain. Wait a few min like directions and spary off all the junk. Remove bags and do not spray the the covered items. Take your jeep for ride to dry off the engine bay and parts. Now yoiu can see better what is leaking. Do the front Axle , and steering rods and such also.. then rise off the body quick just in case.


Next sounds like you want Street Jeep and Mild Trails. The body pic looked much better than the frame stuff. Some of the week spots will need to be cut and welted in angle plate and flat plate with good welding and cutting. I would ck with local jeep club and see if someone can do or recommend for you. There is a Jeep Club at the bottom of main page. Rust in the leaf spring hanger is common but need skills to repair. I would not do myself and do not have the equipment so you are most liklely simialr.

ONce we get the CJ running better then we can work on getting frame welded and start changing the fluids so we get base line. Fluids can be evaluated when drained.

Post back with what you find and with pics of you engine bay. That should keep you busy for a few day min.

Regards,
Fred

Last edited by Fjguercio; 10-09-2008 at 10:55 PM..
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:36 PM   #14
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I agree with with the shackle bushing comment, the rear bushings look completely gone so the front have to be about the same.
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:47 PM   #15
SpencerC
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I now present...engine bay pics!






I dont think that that is the factory air cleaner assembly, it just doesnt look right, maybe im wrong.

The body isnt to bad compared to the frame as you stated, but that has been resolved(read my post above yours).

The carb is a standard 2bbl, but the exhaust is a dual out the side setup, and its annoyingly loud, but im not to worried about that at this point.

Steering, all the slop really is in the box, I think it just needs to be adjusted, colum(not a tilting one) and shaft look good if someone moves the wheel alot of movement goes in the box and almost none comes out when all is centered, the steering wheel turns about 2 to 3in side to side before the steering box and there is zero movement coming out. Ill try adjusting it in the morning and see what I come up with, any hints tips or tricks to it?

So far parts replace consist of, fuel pump, gas tank, fuel filter, air filter, everything rear brake related, lines, wheel cylnders, shoes, hardware etc, tires, just about all exterior lighting, frame work, and a new CB going in this weekend (freebe). It may not sound like much but keep in mind this thing hasnt moved in six years, so nothing was real keen on cooperating, lol.
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